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Old 04-07-2016, 03:15 PM  
nealtw
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Large flat areas like doors and floors and walls will show up ugly paint work when light hit it, baseboards near the floor, not so much. Just paint it.


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Old 04-07-2016, 03:38 PM  
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I've not found, not that I invested a lot of time in their pursuit, sanding sponges of a very fine grit, other than from auto/body suppliers.

Just be mindful of the amount of material you are removing.

Again, it will be a learned skill basically involving consistent pressure, and I would use just the raw abrasive medium on the router shape.

Also, automotive primers are a filling primer and rather then sanding to remove a mar or divot that can affect the plane of the finish, repeated application and brush sanding can effectively bridge that area.

Getting the feel of the tools and your comfort level with them will improve the results.

When you've selected a process, paint a length of scrap, allow it to thoroughly dry, apply automotive polishing compound to half of it.

It should create the appearance of depth to the finish.


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Old 04-07-2016, 03:45 PM  
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If these boards are not installed yet then go with a spray can.
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:11 PM  
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What I actually did. The custom baseboard, that my wife actually did not like, had at least three terrible coats of paint. My efforts to sufficiently sand the 12 painted 1"x4"x8'poplar in order to apply a decent finish proved to be an overly laborious task. After consulting with my wife and interior decorator we ate our losses and picked out a suitable ready made and primed pine baseboard and primed pine quarter round moldings. These moldings are to be installed along the new engineered hardwood flooring.

From the numerous suggestions provided to me on this site I purchased an extra piece of baseboard along with the necessary painting supplies to test your suggestions. I bought a top grade mini sponge roller, super premium small roller advertised to provide a perfectly smooth finish, a premium angled trim brush classified for use with latex paint and Floetrol paint additive.

The test took only a minute or so. Due to today's high humidity and damp air the top of the line interior trim paint was difficult to work with so I added Floetrol according to directions. Both rollers were immediate failures. How anyone could get a perfectly smooth finish by using roller on wood is a mystery to me. I achieved a very acceptable, actually very good finish using the brush and Floetrol modified trim paint. Everyone is happy. When our remodeler returns next week the new trim is ready to install. That my friends is the end of the story. Thank you all for your help.
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:34 PM  
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The upside is that you have achieved satisfactory results and on the way, broaden the horizons of others who will follow.

We successfully paint doors with foam rollers every day, in 8 to 98% humidity, and with familiarizing yourself with different tools, there is a learning curve.

Don't give up and thanks for the exposure.
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:54 AM  
TxHomeowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoonyb View Post
The upside is that you have achieved satisfactory results and on the way, broaden the horizons of others who will follow.

We successfully paint doors with foam rollers every day, in 8 to 98% humidity, and with familiarizing yourself with different tools, there is a learning curve.

Don't give up and thanks for the exposure.
How did you get a smooth finish with a sponge roller? Maybe it was my technique.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:00 AM  
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Probably the single most important, is adjusting the consistency of the applied product to eliminate the drag, and the contained,"instructions", are a generalization.

Experience will teach you the limits beyond which..................
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:13 AM  
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Thank you sir!
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:51 AM  
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In addition to the previous, using the correct primer, sanding the primed surface and roller pressure.

The song slow hands comes to mind.


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