Basement shower drain help...

Advertise with us
SpartanEpoxies
shop deals on amazon
House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
J

jfls45

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
I could use some more advice with installing this p-trap...

Is there a certain length for the inlet pipe into the p-trap, should it be long enough to hold enough water to push through the trap?

Is it ok to backfill around this pipe (ABS) with sand?

How do I get a downward slope with my piping?

Thanks for the help... see attached pictures

100_2149.jpg

100_2152.jpg
 
Last edited:
I haven't seen Redwood or McPlumb post in a few days now, so I'm not sure if they're still here or not.

So far as I know, there is no "head" of water needed upstream of the p-trap. Typically, on most sinks, the p-trap is located less than a foot below the drain.

If you back filled with sand, then any concrete you put over the sand would probably break loose. If it were me, I'd be inclined to make up a weak "concrete" by mixing something like 10 parts perlite with one part white cement. When that mixture cures, it's strong and hard enough to stand on, but you can easily remove it with cold chisel. You'll need to clean the sides of your exposed concrete and use some sort of bonding agent (called "concrete bonding agent") to get the new slurry to stick to the old concrete.

Or, partially backfill with sand, and then cap with a weak cementatious mix.

If your drain pipe is only two feet long, I wouldn't worry about getting a 1/4 inch per foot slope to it. I'm thinking that the ABS fittings you're using might not even allow that much slope in the pipe over two feet.

But, I'm not a plumber. Hopefully one of the plumbers in here will chime in.
 
It has been answered in the other thread...

But you won't like the answer there either...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top