Redo small deck roof to Support Walk-on and Panels

Snoonyb said:

Well, how about this hypothetical; The dwelling is a slab on grade with the deck "legally" added, (however, with a floor level of the deck, 14" above the floor level of the slab, as evidenced by the 68" from deck to window hdr.), whose only reasonable access is an,"over the river and through the woods", trip through another addition.

Compounding bad results, is just that.

I'd do the roof correctly, take the deck apart and lower it on a treated lumber panelized support system.

To maintain some level of architectural consistency.

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I believe that both the small deck and the allseason room (much larger) were added more or less at the same time. The house itself has about 2450 sq ft: about half of the house is on a mixture of crawlspace and basement, the other half is on a slab and is actually below grade (which probably helps to the floor temp in check) but comes with water infiltration issues. Allseason room is on a slab on grade, and I am starting to believe that the small deck is at least partially seating on a concrete slab .

I would do the deck correctly, but as of now it is holding its ground well: nothing is rotten, falling apart, loose, failing. So, it is not a priority at this moment. I stained it sometime ago, and now I will make much stronger (without the extra load of the panels over there).

As far as the lower vertical clearance of the deck itself, I am a short person so it does affect me in any way.

thks!

Well then, allow me to introduce you to some realtor norms.

tk3000 said:

First off, I have no intention to sell the property.

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So you are aware that a dwelling reaches its max. real-estate value at 50yrs. and for purposes of appraisal, there after becomes a property value.

tk3000 said:

96% of people don't buy permits unless they are building something anew (therefore I am not alone).

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Ethics and integrity, are what you do, even in the dark.

tk3000 said:

I still have to find someone who would ask for building permits (for what?) in order to buy a house?

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I'll let the roof over the deck be the example of, "(for what)"!

The reason is, to avoid circumstances of being relegated to ASSuming it's your non negotiable responsibility to simply buy a pig in a polk and fix it.

tk3000 said:

Moreover, I am not the one who build the roof for this deck.

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And because you didn't ask for permits, you find yourself with the responsibility.

Well then, allow me to introduce you to some realtor norms.




So you are aware that a dwelling reaches its max. real-estate value at 50yrs. and for purposes of appraisal, there after becomes a property value.



Ethics and integrity, are what you do, even in the dark.

=> It clearly has nothing to do with ethics and integrity, but with extortion based on the most minimal and minimalist thing possible ( heck there is even a permit to change a valve for a shower head). By the way, there is something called private property and constitutional rights that superseed local ordinances and laws that often are unconstitutional anyways.


I'll let the roof over the deck be the example of, "(for what)"!

The reason is, to avoid circumstances of being relegated to ASSuming it's your non negotiable responsibility to simply buy a pig in a polk and fix it.



And because you didn't ask for permits, you find yourself with the responsibility

=> I already addressed this point. And, if by any chance, anyone from the city try to trespass into my property, then it's a crime. Secondly, if they commit this crime and decide to ask for any permit one would simply sue them for discrimination due to the fact that statically speaking almost nobody pull and pay for permits in these situations (with exceptions of businesses, hotels, etc, due to liability)

=> In terms of realtors, they are nothing but unnecessary, needless, parasites whom add no value to the chain of value and therefore have no reason to exist.

And you shall remain, ever relegated to your naivety.

Sorry for the lack of continuation for this thread... I will try to bring it closure soon and end this job.

Well, I am still working on this deck roofing thing after some time in absence. The idea is to make it better and more water proof than before along with adding extra support. Not panels will the mounted there, I will relocate the panels elsewhere.

I add the beam for extra support for the rafters, and also proper bracket to connect the rafters to the post. And some of the corrugated roof panels were removed. I painted the 1/2 plywood panels and will eventually install them over there. Below are some pics showcasing it:

I plan on using shims to help in creating a pitch for the flat roof. Also painted the 1/2" plywood sheathing to added protection. Would wood shims be appropriate in this case?
thks

Where are you planning to put the shims??

slownsteady said:

Where are you planning to put the shims??

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Well, I would rather have a continuous long shim add to the upper surface of the raters; or maybe planing a board to different thickness? At first, I was considering putting the shims atop of the rafters and under the sheathing: it is just easier to adjust the height of the shims by adding and removing then at different points and thus help to create a pitch for the flat roof. There is the transition from the shingle roof (main house) to the upper deck of the addition that also would help to create a pitch but the plywood board are not continuous so I still would need to add something to help the continuation of the roof pitch.

If you shim on top of the rafters, will you be creating hollow spots under the sheathing? I imagine that you can have a continuous 'shim' the length of the rafter, but there should be a better way (easier) way.

It's not fun but I have cut full length tapers.
If you can cut one really nice on off the side of a 2x6 you can use a fence to cut the second then tack one to the other side and with a fence cut a third and so on.

slownstead: yeah, that would be lots of work especially with my tiny small table saw. I can cut a small board at an angle, but a 12ft lumber is not possible. To make things worse there are several 12ft 2x6 making up the upper frame.

Nealtw: how to make the first one would be the main issue. And even to make replicas would be rather complicated and difficult to cut anything of that length and weight in my small light weight table saw.

I want something that I can glue and nail to the top face of the rafters in order to create a continuous pitch. Can't I buy anything premade? Or maybe go ahead with ordinary shims however bad it may be?

Thks!

Why not shim on the underside of the rafters at the top? That way you can affect the pitch without creating gaps between the rafters and the sheathing.

slownsteady said:

Why not shim on the underside of the rafters at the top? That way you can affect the pitch without creating gaps between the rafters and the sheathing.

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Hmm... You to change the level of the rafters where they meet the ledger board at the main house? Yeah, that could be a much easier way of addressing this issue but probably there is no enough room on the ledger board to affect the pitch in a meaningful way. Last time I checked with a level, the rafters are mostly level. I will double check to make sure whether or not there is enough room to manuever.

Should have though through this thing because the starting out...

tk3000 said:

Hmm... You to change the level of the rafters where they meet the ledger board at the main house? Yeah, that could be a much easier way of addressing this issue but probably there is no enough room on the ledger board to affect the pitch in a meaningful way. Last time I checked with a level, the rafters are mostly level. I will double check to make sure whether or not there is enough room to manuever.

Should have though through this thing because the starting out...

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How much would you like to raise the roof?

nealtw said:

How much would you like to raise the roof?

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That may be another conundrum... I believe that the minimum slope for a flat roof by building code here is 2%. (1/4" per 1'), the board length is about 12 ft and I only have about 1.5" of clearance between the rafters and the house's shingle roof, and since the plywood sheathing itself is about 1/2", it leaves me with 1" for the slope (which is much less than 1/4" per ft).

But I am still in the quest of having any slope in lieu of nothing, and somebody mentioned ISO board with some this week; more specifically tapered iso boards which should go below the epdm membrane. Does that sound like a possible solution?

That would be the quick and easy way to get a slope, foam over plywood but 1% with 1" top end would run out at 100".
The cheaper way would be just to lift the rafters at the top end.
http://www.modulrts.com/webcura/files/243763_tapered_polyiso_system.pdf

nealtw said:

That would be the quick and easy way to get a slope, foam over plywood but 1% with 1" top end would run out at 100".
The cheaper way would be just to lift the rafters at the top end.
http://www.modulrts.com/webcura/files/243763_tapered_polyiso_system.pdf

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Yeah, I am leaning towards lift the rafters at the where the connect to the house ledger board. It is about 12 ft of length from the ledger at the house till the posts in the other end, so 1"/12' = 0.0083 which is close to 1%

At the ledger board end the rafter are held by nails (which is a pain to remove) and brackets. Would it be ok to simply remove the nails from the ledger board/house end and lift the ratfters at that end and leave the end of the rafters attached to the posts (currently it is attached to a 2x6 beam which is connected to the posts) alone (in other words don't remove the screws and bracket at the posts end)?

thks!

tk3000 said:

Yeah, I am leaning towards lift the rafters at the where the connect to the house ledger board. It is about 12 ft of length from the ledger at the house till the posts in the other end, so 1"/12' = 0.0083 which is close to 1%

At the ledger board end the rafter are held by nails (which is a pain to remove) and brackets. Would it be ok to simply remove the nails from the ledger board/house end and lift the ratfters at that end and leave the end of the rafters attached to the posts (currently it is attached to a 2x6 beam which is connected to the posts) alone (in other words don't remove the screws and bracket at the posts end)?

thks!

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That would be my plan, But you want to make sure they will flex, you may still have to remove some screws at the other end