Weeping tile installation

Gravel will not sink to below the plastic pipes. I install perf pipe underground in large commercial retention/detention systems all the time and it will lock together and not move. Gravel is the only thing you can backfill with that does not need to be compacted according to the municipalities and engineers I work for. Here are a couple pics of some of the larger type systems I have built and many are just perf pipe sitting in the middle of rock that is many feet deep. The only thing I would look for in rock is to get washed rock, it will be much cleaner and keep all that silt out of the system.

"Not sure why you ask advice, you always do your own research until you find the one guy who agrees with some idea that you have. "

It's not my idea. I've just learned this by searching the web. Seems like a good solution to me, perforated pipes act like gravel. My guess is you'll get longer life because you can clog 4 pipes now before need to be repair it vs just one pipe.

That's why i bounce it on to you guys to see what you say. These building science is changing and improving all the time. I think you can see that the gravel can easily work it's way bellow the pipe and then start to pool up in bad way.

My other question is how many hours would it take a mini-ex to dig the foundations 25x25' and about 4' bellow grade?

I also found a deal on 2.5" polystyrene for the outside. Do you think 2.5" is enough or should i double it 5", will it make a difference?

The gravel alone will transfer the water, after years of pumping water out of my dads basement which just ran back in the city installed sewer lines and when we hook up to that we discoved water would run into the gravel around the sewer pipe. We built a sump around the sewer pipe and water drained into that gravel for the twenty years they lived there after that.

In new construction here they place 4" ridged foam either against the foundation to the height of the floor or on the flat under the slab around the inside against the foundation both 2ft wide.
When the do a pan slab which is pored as one foundation and floor they install foam on the outside, they also put a flashing under the house wrap and over the foam to keep the water out.
I don't know how they get rid of water that wicks up thru the concrete and usually finds its way out thru the exposed concrete between the siding and ground level.

The problem with stacking pipes like you mention is that first there are voids in between them and second they can oval or collapse over time. If you are using thin walled drain pipe you will need the rock around it to help protect the pipe. Instead of using many pipes you should just upgrade from 4" to 6" or 8" or whatever size you feel is adequate. Like I said before the rock locks into itself and will help the pipes. We install all our new sewer pipe and storm drain pipe with a rock bedding and rock to a foot above to help keep the pipe round.

"The problem with stacking pipes like you mention is that first there are voids in between them and second they can oval or collapse over time. If you are using thin walled drain pipe you will need the rock around it to help protect the pipe. "

But there is nobody walking beside the house or heavy weight? The rocks may will cause the problem of crushing the plastic. Actually the gravel would be cheaper than buy 3 more pipes. So i might as well get the gravel rock hard pipe.
I don't expect it to be in used from rain but only in the spring if snow is not removed from the house etc.
I wonder if the ditch in the front will be deep enough for the drainage? I guess dig down there a bit, the town shouldn't mind.

This is my situation now,

/watch?v=VEh9SS6R10E

Which is not good -bothers the allergies. I think the blue skin and polystyrene sheets will be the main improvement. After all that i can scrub it all down the inside walls and floor with bleach and hopefully the problem will be solved complete. But it is hard to believe right now. Maybe a citrus greaser on the concrete?

"Weeping tile", as you describe them are not, and not necessary for "floods" The operate 24/7 and reduce the moisture in the soil around and over them. They have been used for many centuries in various configurations.

Perforated pipe should be placed with bottom of the pipe slightly below the bottom of the footing.

Holes are placed in the bottom half to collect the moisture in the backfill and surrounding soil. Permeable/porous material (2" thick) should also be placed on the drainage cloth before the pipe is laid. The location of the holes determines how low the soil moisture can be reduced.

The pipe/tile are laid horizontally in a collection are since water seeks it own level and naturally flows to a sump or a solid walled pipe that is sloped to carry the water to a lower area.

The pipe actually improves the life and stability of the soil because it eliminates the excess moisture that causes instability and high lateral pressures on walls. Interior drain tile and in some cases reduce the upward pressure on a floor slab and reduce floor cracking, but the main use is to provide a stable dry basement.

I know builders that automatically install both interior and exterior drain tile on EVERY home they build because it is so cheap to do during construction. For many homes interior drain tile are cheaper than exterior if there are detached steps, patios and landscaping in place.

Dick

Okay that sounds good. Typar under the pipes. How much large gravel do i need 4 inches x 100 feet x 1 foot? But a 1" first then the pipe then 3" over it?

Do you think city will mind if i put the drainage channel going out to the ditch by the road?
I have to call the 1 call dig people, i should mention the channel i think..
I should use solid no holes pipe for that part going to the ditch?

Jungle said:

Okay that sounds good. Typar under the pipes. How much large gravel do i need 4 inches x 100 feet x 1 foot? But a 1" first then the pipe then 3" over it?

Do you think city will mind if i put the drainage channel going out to the ditch by the road?
I have to call the 1 call dig people, i should mention the channel i think..
I should use solid no holes pipe for that part going to the ditch?

Click to expand...

You are going to have to account for the gravel around the pipe as well. How wide of a trench? If you figure a 1' wide x 100' long x 4" deep of solid matter would be 2.4 tons. It will likely take a bit less.

You will have to talk to the city to see if they will let you connect to the ditch

Dig-a-lert 800-422-4133 is the number I call, pretty sure they are nationwide. It's a free service and required before you dig or if you hit something it will automatically be your fault. They are not going to care what you are connecting to, they are only going to ask you what you are putting in which is storm drain and they are going to ask you how you plan on excavating the area.

You will want to use solid pipe anywhere you are not going to have gravel around it.

So is 2-1/2" of polystyrene enough around the foundations? Or i can get 5" for $300 more?

I am thinking to make two exits for the weeping tile. One out to the ditch. the other to backyard. Can the weeping tile drain out to say 50' more of perforated pipe to the back yard and the water will just go to yard?
Seems better than relying on only front trench. Also less of problem of adjusting the pitch so 100' can drain. How much pitch for each 25' side of the house? 6"

I am having the same problem with my gutter, 25' is too long and better to have two downspouts.
The perforated access pipes seems like a great idea. I could put the pipe near the trouble spots, were the gutter tends to leak. The pipes going straight up will suck ground water right away. With the access pipes it will be always easy to clean out too. Maybe 3-4 access pipes should be good.

With two exits, if you don't get the slope right - one will become an entrance.

I'm not sure what you expect the vertical pipes to do. If they're open, then they will collect dirt and mess up your weeping tiles. I have a cleanout on mine, but it is capped.

On a bad day the down spouts will introduce more water around the foundation for that you should run solid pipe, a second one dosn't have to be as deep as the first. If you want to drain the ground around the downspouts use solid pipe but back fill with gravel so water can get down to the perimeter drrain.

That's what the curtain drain should do (dimpled plastic). It allows a channel for water to drain down to the weeping tiles

I think Neal is right. The weeping tiles are down at the bottom and a second pipe can have a direct connection to your downspouts - and an atrium drain in a low spot to carry off surface water. The second pipe should be solid until it is well past your drainage area.

If you are on a septic tank system I wouldn't run more water to the back yard.

What ^ He said, I would not introduce any extra water to a leach field if you have one.

I'm not on a septic. There used to be a septic which i guess is still in the yard. I assume weeping tile drain can't run to the sewer drain. Or should i do it anyways, could it back up?

The public ditch by the road is not gonna be deep enough. Maybe 1-2" feet i will have to dig down for the slope to work. Then a hole? But there is huge ice and snow there in the spring! Now i read what you said about flowing back, maybe the ditch is out of the question. Big gravel 10' hole? Unless i snake the pipe to the right in front of the neighbors property bury in the ditch, there is good slope. That would work.

One discharge point. I got, plumbing is all about air. I could have two discharge points but separate the plumbing.


So how do i make the discharge point? A deep gravel hole? The house is raised , the yard and the side and front are all sloped, only the driveway is more flat. Actually one problem is the old garage that was there and i will get the mini-ex guy to level this area because it was causing perhaps most of the problem with a big mound of sand that is still there.

What if i use 10 ' solid pipe then 50' perforated then a large hole in the yard filled with gravel? Or what if the pipe then snorkeled up with screen on top? The water would just drain in the yard starting 10' away, which should be enough. Or add another branch drain pipe, like a septic system?

I would run a solid pipe for the down spouts to the ditch at an elevation that would work solid pipe and use a sump and pump to bring the lower water up to that pipe.

What's wrong with draining to a hole in the backyard? Or like a septic bed?

Today it rained pretty hard and yesterday too but the basement is dry. So the weeping tiles won't actually being used that much. I don't think cutting a hole in the concrete foundations is too practical at this point.

You can drain to a pit or a leach field if you have the fall and the pit or field is large enough to handle the amount of water.