Structure support?

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bryce,

The last photo in Post 13 shows the galvanized water heater vent run touching the vertical copper water line directly behind it. Not good, as 2 dissimilar metals will galvanically react with each other, and eventually cause perforations (holes) to develop in the more chemically active member.

By adjusting the flexible vent pipe elbows (first loosening the sheet metal screws locking the sections together) and rotating the assembly downward and forward at the top of the heater, you'd both create a gap between the 2 different metals and make the run over to the chimney have a more positive (upward) flow.

Your plumber has no business trying to be a plumber. Where I come from his work quality is known as "cowboy plumbing." I would report him to your AHJ that grants professional licenses for the building trades. Along with asking for a partial refund of that exorbitant sum he charged you. You did say he was a plumber, and not a robber baron, right?
 
good catch, i just checked and there is only 1/8" at the closed point between the vent and the copper hot water pipe. I think rotating the heater should do the trick.
Do really think the yellow line is a problem? I doubt he will want to change that. I notice other people charging 2200$ for the same instaltion not to mention the water heater company that was previously chargin $30 per month.So 1700$ seems okay.
Like i said the previous installation was 1-2" lower. Don't you think shark bites and pex tube should solve the problem? We already replacing some plumbing this way.
 
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You also have a problem with that yellow gas line.I would replace it if it was in my home.

Here is the class action suit. http://www.pddocs.com/csst/

Good luck.

You need to read the link. Those csst gas lines are prone to failure if there is a lighning strick nearby. there is no bonding sleeve on that line and it creates small holes, then leaks. There have been a few in my area that have been replaced with one called http://www.tracpipe.com/CSST_Gas_Pipe_Products/CounterStrike_CSST/

This is what should have been installed, but it's your call if your not concerned. I'm just letting you know there are issues with the old yellow csst line.
Good luck.:2cents:
 
ha ha, no the previous owner...
So how serious do think these issues are?
How long would it take for the copper pipe and vent to corrode like this?
i think i need to call a someone more professional to check everything tomorrow.
It's a 40 gal bradford white, i probably only needed a 20 gallon. I think i only really need that hot water for 1 shower per day. I wonder if there is an external switch that i could install and just turn it on 1/2 hour before a shower? Anyway to make it a 20 gal system?
Hey look it has the defender system, means i'm okay right?
http://www.bradfordwhite.com/DEFENDER.ASP

Okay i put a level on it, if i measure from the highest point of the vent entering the chimney there is a bit of a slope so i guess it is okay. I left jim a message explaining about the vent, well he is not calling me back and i think giving me the dodge. I guess it is not surprising since he already had to install it twice. You know people all laugh at me when i say i heard it on the internet around here..
$1700 was a burn for the water heater, but i think it is a good model. $2000 for the goodman furnace was definitely a good deal. Problem i have is when people realize i am from the city they all try to ripe me off. This has become a pattern.
 
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So this definitely a problem?
The photo is misleading, only at the bottom is it really close 1/4" . You can see the slight incline.
Would shark bites and pex solve it? I was reading that flex hose was a no no again for this.

ABC_0995.jpg
 
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A sandwich of two one-bys with through bolts should probably repair this joist, and joist height is more important than joist thickness.

If you stand on another joist far away from the broken one and measure the deflection due to your body weight you can measure how strong your repair is relative to an undamaged joist.
 
It's not a big deal really, probably doesn't need much put some PL in there and jack it up with a 2x4. Sistering would be a bonus.

So, about these dissimilar metals can i just put something between them? Plastic?
 
"The link you sent has an "comment by the author in 2005 talking about the issues I explained.
Some areas have banned the yellow csst, others are just slow at catching up. "
Yes i'm little concerned but we are long way from texas, lightning is not that common. It seems to be code around here, so even if i call a licensed guy he will say it is not necessary.
 
Forgive me for saying but I think your plumber is a hack.
He should have done a professional job for that price.
The gas pipe should be against the wall well secured,
It should have been on a platform at least 18" high to begin with.
It looks like the piping is 1/2", is that right?
He can still make the vent pipe angle up a bit more,
He didn't even take the freaking tag off the vent pipe.

The W/H isn't even secured to anything, you may not be in a seismic zone of any relevance but still...

Andy.
 
So, about these dissimilar metals can i just put something between them?

Plastic?

If you put plastic against the vent pipe where it exits the W.H., make sure your homeowners fire insurance policy is paid up and current. Shouldn't take too long to burn the place down. Hopefully, not while you're upstairs, sleeping soundly.

Best thing to put between the two metals is an air gap. Wider the better. What shows in the picture appears to be touching, at one of the raised joint elbow adjustment rings.

As others have so eloquently said--your plumber is a (definite) hack.
 
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Others have said eloquently that those on the internet are often full of %^$$.
I had a certified guy in today from a big company who cut the stove pipe. He checked the furnace and hot water: perfectly fine and up to code. And yes my home insurance is up to date.

I might mention you where all completely wrong about the structure window. You all thought is was so bad and it was nothing wrong with it too.
 

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