how to thermal heat switch

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gghrt000

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while I was painting a while ago, I did not bother to remove or cover the thermal heat switch now bearing the fruit. Once all the job done half-painted those switches are an eyesore. I am wondering whether these are removable. I looked around no screws it looks like it might be removeable to stretching the side and bottom a bit. But before I do, I just wanted to ask around.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/winttl8onifog7p/IMG_20140712_175852.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/winttl8onifog7p/IMG_20140712_175852.jpg
 
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Yep the cover snaps off. What you should have done was cover it with painters tape before you started.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Repair
 
pop em' off and soak them in hot water. the paint should come off with a little scrubbing.
 
ok i got them popped off. I also slid open the revolving know and what is behind was a main unit into which 5 wires 2red+2black and one ground wires plugged in. Yesterday went to homedepo and what they have is completely different shapes and sizes than mine. Mine is quite old revolving knob switch probably original installed unit when it is built back in 1990. The ones in store was much more advanced programmable units. I am not sure those will work. I will do some research on this one. If I find a suitable unit in terms of wiring and approximate size, I would much rather replace the old unit as it is looking very dirty now.
THis is what i see for wiring harness diagram behind the plastic casing (also pic included)


NON-INDUCTIVE RATING
D22 125/250/277 VAC
22AMPS DOUBLE POLE
WIRING DIAGRAM

2 red wire going from STAT to LINE
2 black wire going from STAT to LOAD


Thanks,

IMG_20140720_182358.jpg

IMG_20140720_183010.jpg

IMG_20140720_183152.jpg

IMG_20140720_185034.jpg
 
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gghrt000 said:
NON-INDUCTIVE RATING
Click to expand...
Which implies that the load is resistive - no coils, no motors, no tungsten filaments, all of which wear out switch contacts rapidly.

At 240 v, 22A gives you a max load of 5300w. If your heater nameplate shows less watts you can go smaller on the switch and maybe save some bucks. 16A, 3800w seems to be next smaller choice.
 
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i see, i will have to take a look at the heater. there are two one in the living room and another in the bedroom. Since i live in a cali state, rarely need to use the heater, during winter I turn it on so much never even close to max. It is probably going to be ok then..
 
Yes, intermittent use at below max heat = long switch life.
 
Check the size of the breakers

Yes, intermittent use at below max heat = long switch life.

Switch is either on or off, so max heat whenever it is on.

Breakers maybe a little light for the amount of amps because they are continues use and no big start like a motor.
 
My bad. Didn't look closely at dial markings.
 
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Ok I am just getting ready to install. I will look through later threads after installation :).
It appears from cover back diagram two red lines are from LINE and two black is to the LOAD which is the actual heater. Does it matter if either two of the blacks are switched or two red lines for LINES are switched???

On the newer one, there are marking L1 L2 T1 T2 however no such markings whatsoever anywhere on old one. Only thing I can see on old one is red/black color coding. This should be a last help! Thanks,
 
Usually 1 red and 1 black come from the breaker and the same go to the heater. With some kind of continuity tester you can find which is the heater. A meter a test liught , make something out of a flash light.
 
gghrt000 said:
two red lines
two black
either two of the blacks are switched or two red lines for LINES are switched???
Click to expand...
As many times as I have treated the same color wires the same, by now certainly I would have had some bad outcomes if the same color meant different things.
 
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thanks nealtw, watched the video it gave me an important reminder to turn off the fuse, i was going to do it on live wire!!
After looking at video i also found important difference between old and new one.
On old one, both red ones are going to LINE and two black are going to THERMOSTAT.
I can see because two reds are connected to black and white one lumped together from the wall.
That is also what the diagram on the old thermostat's cap shows:
6858d1405907337-how-thermal-heat-switch-img_20140720_185034.jpg


Now NEW one completely different and is similar to video, one black (L1) and one red (L2) one going to LINE and other black (T1) and red (T2) one going to LOAD. I can see it is marked on the unit and this is how I am going to connect the unit:

L2 - red (line) - white from LINE
L1 - black (line) - black from LINE

T1 - red (load, thermostat) - white from LOAD
T2 - black (load, thermostat) - black from LOAD.


i hope this will not blow up the building..!!

IMG_20140803_223739.jpg
 
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