router tool advice

Hi all, if you look at my prior posts re a bathroom. that's where I'm at. long story , finally ready for baseboards. I got a Mak combo & stock 5" baseboard from a local yard. I want it taller so I'm going to rip some left over 1" mahogany porch planking into ~1 1/2" strips: Roundover one edge of the strip with a 1/2" shank 3/4x1" (bosch 85434MC) bit, rip that piece off. Repeat.

The baseboard will set _on top_ of the "shoe". the shoe extends beyond the profile of the baseboard. paint the baseboard neutral, coat and/or stain the mahog to match the cabinet and I think it'll be nice looking--piping.

Well all my research forgot to confirm collet availability. the Mak only takes 1/4" bits. (anyone interested in that Open Box, unused Mak (RT0701CX7) give me a buzz).

I've found the Bosch 1617EVS. its the only thing on my short-list. Anybody know another quality router meeting the bill? I like the Bosch's 1/4&1/2 interchange. But! the Mak has a quick screw straight edge guide attachment which I thought would be _really_ handy for doing these routs. The Bosch does not. But there's an add on part RA1054 (~35$) that does provide a SEguide (much more involved looking than the Mak's attachment)

I'm quite the neophyte with (finer) carpentry. Do I _need_ any straight edge guide? I'm presuming with the right table set-up i can fence &clamp my pieces -- but my concern is the router is guided by the fence rather than the pieceedge. In previous routings (first-times) the fence method seemed to wiggle. Causing, well, wiggles in the finish cuts. An SE guide seems more 1:1.

is an SEGuide a shortcut, diy'er mistake in general? "An accomplished carpenter would never use a SEg...

Thoughts? Advice? Am I missing anything to consider (parts, technique, tools?) thanks!

I would take a different approach.
I have 2 porter cables, one hand held and one bolted in a table. The only time I use a fence is when I am cutting a grove with a straight bit. The only time I use the 1/2" collet is when a bit is not availible in 1/4"
I would not pre-rip peices just re-cut the edge so it is straight , mount the router into a table of some sort and attach the fence to that, after cutting out enough for the bit to turn.
For the best finish do it in two passes or more, the last one to take about 1/16 of wood.
When using a table the router wants to be on your right.
After makeing one peice cut a sample that you can reset fence or depth with .so they all are the same.
When I use a fence like this, I drill a hole in each end of the fence and table so I can drop a pin in and then clamp it, for 2 passes just drill two holes on one end for a quick change.

Hello NealTW, thanks for helping. I'm sure my ig'nance will show here in my resply.

My only experience with a fence (of the carpentry-tasked ilk) is with a chop saw. My only significant routing experience is the back side of azek frieze boards to cover proud-bolted PT deck girders. Since it wasn't cosmetic results I was looking for I'm pretty sure I did that free hand (ie not fenced)

I would not pre-rip peices just re-cut the edge so it is straight

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Check. I was going to rout, then rip.

mount the router into a table of some sort

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. ummm challenging, I'm sure I can find instructs somehow. I've seen undertable mounted, not so sure about abovetable. Obviously the depth and test routs are important here yes?

attach the fence to that

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"that" being the table yes?

after cutting out enough for the bit to turn.

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This i don't get at all. cut out what from what. some sort of "priming" of the piece?

For the best finish do it in two passes or more, the last one to take about 1/16 of wood.

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Me likey, a finer point (scuse the pun) that I need to keep in my head in general.

From the above, I'm getting the fence is fixed, the router fixed and so the only things moving during execution is the router bit and the piece I'mrouting (as I draw it past the bit) yes? no?

After making one peice cut a sample that you can reset fence or depth with .so they all are the same.

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Did I mis-understand: I'm getting: use scrap pieces to be sure dimensions are good. yes?

When I use a fence like this, I drill a hole in each end of the fence and table so I can drop a pin in and then clamp it, for 2 passes just drill two holes on one end for a quick change.

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This one I'm not really getting either. This is a "multiple" fence setup? -- each fence is for each depth pass of the router. Three passes (eg) three fences. If so, when routing, the router, on top of the table (presumed). actually sits, also, on top of the fence? Start high (1st pass) takes 1/2", Lower (2nd pass) takes 7/16". Last (3rd pass) takes 1/16". hmm?

I certainly understand if I'm not being clear in my queries, or this is just too much for any good man's patience. Plz, feel free to dismiss. If not thanks much for your forbearance.:beer:

So you did mostly good.
Mount the router upside down in a peice of thick plywood, 1" you can buy a scrap at HD something like 24 x 24" cut a hole in the middle about 4" round.
Remove the face plate from the router and buy longer screws that will go thru the table to attach the router, countersink the screws.
If you are using a bit with a guide wheel, you do not need a fence. But care must be taken when starting the cut.
If you are setting the bit above the top of you work stock you will need a fence.
The fence can be just a strip of plywood or anything that is straight, length to match the width of the table.
The fence will be for both infeed and discharge so it will need to have a cut out in the center so it can surround the router bit with a little clearence.
You want to set the fence just right so the finnished product will still hits the discharge side of the fence.
Pinning or bolting the fence down garrentees that nothing moves while you are routing. To do more than one cut to get a better finish you either have to lower the router or bring the fence closer for the first cut.
So you could use a second pin hole on one side of the table for that. If you are going to raise and lower the router you want a sample so you get the exact height everytime

If you are approaching a bit with a wheel and no fence the end of the board can get caught before you are ready and kick sideways, ripping the crap out of the end of the peice and you also have to deal with the crap in your pants. To avoid that just attach a block to the table in front of the bit so you slide the stock along the block and into the bit.

Don't forget where your fingers are as you push the other end of the board past the bit. Have a block ready to push with at the end.
When routering in a table like this the router bit is alway to you right, you always want to be pushing the right direction.,

Hopefull this clears up most of it.

All of what Neal said.
Take a trip to the local home depot and look at the router tables. it will give you a good idea of what Neal is talking about. You might even decide to buy one.
The trickiest part of the fence: if you are routing the edge of a piece of wood, the piece may be slightly smaller on the outgoing side than it was coming in. So your fence may need a slightly different adjustment on the outgoing side to keep the piece aligned. But ripping after routing may solve that problem for you.

slownsteady said:

All of what Neal said.
Take a trip to the local home depot and look at the router tables. it will give you a good idea of what Neal is talking about. You might even decide to buy one.
The trickiest part of the fence: if you are routing the edge of a piece of wood, the piece may be slightly smaller on the outgoing side than it was coming in. So your fence may need a slightly different adjustment on the outgoing side to keep the piece aligned. But ripping after routing may solve that problem for you.

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You just make sure you are not removing the very top edge so the fence still works both sides. I triied one of those store bought tables, wasn't big enough.

Hi all, sorry to be so lame in getting back to this topic. Thank you for your attempts at enlightening (it was - but I couldn't clear the fog).
I ended up buying a table. Its the bosch to match the bosch router. I'm so geometrically challenged I knew I couldn't afford the emotional pain (and the time!) to suss out exactly what I needed. Most was understandable but making the fence adjustable was going to be too much. Having used the table now I see it was a wise decision. many test cuts and adjusting the fence till it was just right I think was a smart thing to do.
Now! moving forward: please take a look at the results of my ahem, handiwork in a new post I started. I've now gotten to another point in routing that I know is more challenging and probably will take a lot more practice cuts.