So, a rusted out shower head in a wall has resulted in a nearly 100% gut reno of a bathroom in a 120yo house. The bath is ~12'x7'. The floor is unlevel -- generally sinking a total of at least 1/4 to 1/2" as you move away from the long wall (joists parallel).
Since tiling is going in I took up the old t&g sub floor and found why the old hardwood finish floor was so "soft" around the toilet flange -- there was really very little if any support there for the subfloor.
Rather than using self-leveling concrtet and for stability I'd thought I'd try tackling sistering joists. That's challenging enough but when I tried to suss out how to stabilize the toilet area I realized i'm getting in over my head and will almost certainly hire a pro.
I'm posting a brother post in the plumbing forum re the lead drain and bracing. but want to have as much info as possible when the work does get done:
1) If you sister joists -- the ends of the sister: Must or Its ok: if only one end sits on the rim joists that the originals sit on? (and some sort of lag bolts are used along the length) I ask because I've got a good feeling one end of some of the originals will not be accessible w/o _more_ demo extending beyond the bathroom. (I haven't removed all the sub-flooring yet - just the furthest reaches of the bathroom)
2) If only one joist is sistered is better than none (assuming the originals are all brought up to the desired level height.)
3) It makes sense to me, but maybe doesn't matter. When leveling the sisters will be set to receive the plywood perfectly. -- Doesn't it make sense to put in furring or really long shims on the original joists to bring them up to the new level set by the sisters? Thus allowing more dispersion of load across all the joists (presuming the sisters are resting on rim joists)
btw, please excuse me if this is not allowed on this forum, but if you know of a reputable carpenter in the Saratoga Springs area in NY I would like to contact them. I've got at least 3 other (smaller) carpentry efforts that need work.
thanks for any wisdom, B
Since tiling is going in I took up the old t&g sub floor and found why the old hardwood finish floor was so "soft" around the toilet flange -- there was really very little if any support there for the subfloor.
Rather than using self-leveling concrtet and for stability I'd thought I'd try tackling sistering joists. That's challenging enough but when I tried to suss out how to stabilize the toilet area I realized i'm getting in over my head and will almost certainly hire a pro.
I'm posting a brother post in the plumbing forum re the lead drain and bracing. but want to have as much info as possible when the work does get done:
1) If you sister joists -- the ends of the sister: Must or Its ok: if only one end sits on the rim joists that the originals sit on? (and some sort of lag bolts are used along the length) I ask because I've got a good feeling one end of some of the originals will not be accessible w/o _more_ demo extending beyond the bathroom. (I haven't removed all the sub-flooring yet - just the furthest reaches of the bathroom)
2) If only one joist is sistered is better than none (assuming the originals are all brought up to the desired level height.)
3) It makes sense to me, but maybe doesn't matter. When leveling the sisters will be set to receive the plywood perfectly. -- Doesn't it make sense to put in furring or really long shims on the original joists to bring them up to the new level set by the sisters? Thus allowing more dispersion of load across all the joists (presuming the sisters are resting on rim joists)
btw, please excuse me if this is not allowed on this forum, but if you know of a reputable carpenter in the Saratoga Springs area in NY I would like to contact them. I've got at least 3 other (smaller) carpentry efforts that need work.
thanks for any wisdom, B
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