How to move a light switch

It only needs moved a couple feet but we have to, of course, remove the wires from the box containing the light switches. My question is, how do I remove them and do I need to cap them off once they are out and how do I put the wires back once the switch is where I need it?

Thanks in advance for any help!

I had to do this myself because the electrician put the box too close to an entryway door. Anyway, what I did--along my electrician brother-- was to destroy the plastic box to remove it from inside the wall after we had removed the light switches and wire nutted the wires. We set the new box and then pigtailed the wires by soldering them together and adding shrink-tubing.

If the old box is metal, it may be difficult to remove if it's nailed to a stud. Sometimes you can pry it off the nails, sometimes you can't. You might have to cut out a section of drywall on the other side of the stud so you access it to drill a hole thru the stud to pull the wires thru from the new box to the existing wires so you can pigtail them there. When I've had to leave an existing box in the wall, I've used various methods to repair the hole. One way is to take some thin wood stock--like the thinnest part of a shim--and epoxy it horizontally across the box to fill it in. Use 2 or 3 pieces of shim to cover hole Then you can just mud over the wood--but be sure to wet the wood first so it doesn't suck the moisture out of the drywall mud and cause failure later on. When it dries, then tape the edges and feather it out.

Big Red said:

I had to do this myself because the electrician put the box too close to an entryway door. Anyway, what I did--along my electrician brother-- was to destroy the box to remove it from inside the wall after we had removed the light switches and wire nutted the wires. We set the new box and then pigtailed the wires by soldering them together and adding shrink-tubing.

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Soldering wires and shrink wrapping them is not acceptable by the code. You need to either go back to the source and run new wires if the existing ones aren't long enough or install an accessible junction box and splice the wires there.

If you can leave the existing switch box make your connection there, install a blank cover plate. Any splice in 120VAC wire must be in an approved box/enclosure and MUST be accessible without tearing out drywall to find it.

The only thing I can add to beyond Sparky617 post is when it comes to opening up drywall sometimes it’s easier to patch a larger area than a tiny hole. If you open it up large enough you can get a couple studs to attach the patch piece to and room to add some strips around the edge to screw it all back together with it goes quicker and looks better.

Just finished a project like this. Actually, the box had to be move upward 3" to avoid a tall credenza. Here were the steps:

1. Turn off breakers to box
2. Remove and label wires (there were five ROMEX lines into this box)
3. Pry loose existing box using a Powerbar and let it fall.
4. Cut drywall to position new box.
5. Using 1x4" wood, provide drywall backer by screwing through the existing wallboard. Leave space for the "ears" on the new "old work" box to grab
6. Fit new drywall piece in hole, screw it in.
7. Feed wires into box, attach it in new hole.
8. Following labels, reconnect switches, test functionality.
9. Patch drywall, texture, paint.
10. Admire your work.

You COULD use the old box as the junction box.

I know it's not code---but it DOES work. Sometimes I think these codes are over the top. It's discouraged because many people can't do a good job of splicing and soldering. Code wants the human element of any error removed.

Thanks for the quick replies! I think I might be able to figure it out. Was mainly worried about whether or not I would have enough wire length in the attic to move it a couple feet but you guys can't tell me that lol. Do I need to put black tape or a plastic cap on the wires wile we are moving them?

Put a wire nut on the hot wire---add some electrical tape to it just to be sure.

I have paneling btw so it's a little easier to get into and to replace as far as I know.

No wire nuts required you will be killing the power at the breaker or fuse and the wires won’t be hot during any of this work. If for some reason you had to turn power back on during the move then yes cap them with a wire nut. But when you get back to it shut the power off again.

If it is in paneling the best thing is to use the old box as a junction box and put a cover on it.

I can show you several photos of the house we just bought when I started working on it had splices in the wall and I can show you one photo where it was heating and had been burning the old wood as it had charred but not caught fire. No splices in the wall ever.

I wasn't going to comment on this one but, like a fool, I'll bite.
I assume that if you need to move the light switch, leaving the old box in place, isn't an option.
If you can find the circuit or switch leg in the attic, that is where you will want to make your enclosed and accessible splice. From there run longer wire to your drop point in the attic and route wire down from that spot.
You might run into some fire block half way down the wall. Install an old work box and rewire the switch.
This is not by any means detailed instructions and my opinion would be for you to call an electrician based on some of the advice given here that almost sound credible if you didn't know better.

Big Red said:

You COULD use the old box as the junction box.

I know it's not code---but it DOES work. Sometimes I think these codes are over the top. It's discouraged because many people can't do a good job of splicing and soldering. Code wants the human element of any error removed.

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Why would the switch box not be to code as a junction box? As long as it is accessible it is a legal enclosure.

Big Red said:

You COULD use the old box as the junction box.

I know it's not code---but it DOES work. Sometimes I think these codes are over the top. It's discouraged because many people can't do a good job of splicing and soldering. Code wants the human element of any error removed.

Click to expand...

No, Code wants to make sure that work capable of leveling your home and endangering occupants is done correctly. I hate to say it but neither of your posts have been correct.

Big Red said:

You COULD use the old box as the junction box.

I know it's not code---but it DOES work. Sometimes I think these codes are over the top. It's discouraged because many people can't do a good job of splicing and soldering. Code wants the human element of any error removed.

Click to expand...

I guess it's pick on Big Red day. Hidden conections are not acceptible for very good reasons. I am sure you have your reasons for thinking a soldered joint is acceptible but what if the OP does not have your skill level. Will a electricion be able to find a loose joint or a hot joint. I am more surprized that you said there was electrition envolved.

There are listed romex splice kits out there that can be buried in the wall. They look like a quick connect, but are extremely difficult to pry apart, even by using tools. I know Tyco makes them, maybe Wago too. If the box needs to be removed that might be an option.