Stopping Water to Solder

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CallMeVilla

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OK, so how many of us have been in a situation where you had to sweat a fitting but there was pipe water messing up the solder?

"Use bread"
"Blow it out with a flexible hose then solder fast!"

Nope. Here is the tool that is so slick, you will want their kit. It allows you to seal the stream of water, do a proper solder job, then finish the repair.

What do you think??

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9GDCeozQQE[/ame]
 
If your trying to sweat a 90 onto a section of straight pipe, does this tool have a flexible shaft to go around the corner to stop the water?
In a real bad pinch where the water is too fast for bread, I use jelly plugs.
 
This tool works really well for straight line applications, which is typically where I have needed help the most. If you want a trick tool for going around 90's, you need a Wassi ...

http://pipemanproducts.com/proddetail.php?prod=Wassi-Flex-II

Jelly plugs are a good call too. Just never sure how long I get before they dissolve ... and be very careful if you Google "jelly plug" because you're going to get a surprise. :D
 
i'll stick with my bicycle pump and a loaf of sunbeam
 
This tool works really well for straight line applications, which is typically where I have needed help the most. If you want a trick tool for going around 90's, you need a Wassi ...

http://pipemanproducts.com/proddetail.php?prod=Wassi-Flex-II

Jelly plugs are a good call too. Just never sure how long I get before they dissolve ... and be very careful if you Google "jelly plug" because you're going to get a surprise. :D

Sweet. I take your word for it on the google part. :D
 
used a t-shirt tied to a string in a 3 inch line once.
packed it in, string broke, so turned the valve on
it came out

got in trouble for working on the job with a shirt off. screw em!!
 
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I use Shark Bites as caps to temporarily stop flows ... or to solve tight situations where soldering is now possible.

Frankly, PEX is a far easier option wherever possible, yes?

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=G7Ya8Nv5g-M[/ame]
 
Pretty cool. How long does the rubber gasket last? It doesn't seem far enough from the heat and it is in full contact with the pipe.

Great point, best be used with lower heat torch, somewhere around 375 degrees
anything hotter will bake the rubber in no time.
 
Gasket lasts a long time and it cheap to replace. Readily available to Ebay ... We had a big leak in a commercial location where the shop did not have a valve for individual isolation. The entire center had to be shut down!

We used shark bites to isolate the leakage then turned the water back on so the center could operate. Once everything was shut down, we removed the shark bites and plugged the pipe with the Jet Sweat to install new angle stops (shut offs). With those in place, the new faucet connections solved the main problem.

Should have taken pics ... but the process should be obvious.
 
Well, sounds like it works pretty well. I guess i have no complaints.

Great point, best be used with lower heat torch, somewhere around 375 degrees
anything hotter will bake the rubber in no time.

A plumber once told me that a hotter torch is better. Less time heating the pipe=less time for heat transfer.
 
to be honest, 98% of leaks are on a line that is not open.
if a line is open, pick it up, so that the water runs back into the pipe, hurry up and get er done
but sooner or later you have to solider that last joint
a mechanical doodad will not work. you are left with a couple of options

drill a small hole to let steam escape while you solder, them solder hole closed
or pack the pipe with bread. solder it and flush the bread out

i do not know anything about jello balls, i know about jello shots,
 
Sorry Frodo drilling a hole is not a good idea. Never seen it done by a Newbie, DIYer or Pro Plumber. Have seen jelly plugs used and have even done bread. Have blown water out using straws and long flexible tubing.

The Shark Bite fitting is also excellent because you can apply it even with water present. But sooner or later, you will have to solder if you are using copper. More often, pre-assembly via dry fit and pre-soldering is the best approach. This helps isolate the place where water might be present.

copper.jpg
 
old dude showed me this, a 3" copper line
1/16" hole drilled on the top, to relieve steam.
then silver solider the hole. worked.


kinda fuzzy picture, looks like a bank of mixing valves.
wish it was a clearer picture, from what i can see, nice work, bad camera
 
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