Sloped Roof Overhang Issue

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o2284200

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Hello,

I've got 2 sloped tile roof sections, one of which overhangs the other by 1-2 feet. There is a leak, which someone tried to patch where the lower roof section meets the wall under the over hang but it's very small area to work in. The overhang also appears to be holding water and sagging in the middle.

Your advise on how to handle these issues is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
The saging appears to be from an undersized rafter that is carring to much unsupported weight.

There should be track flashing against the wall that is covered by the top roof section. This flashing would come down verticle (behind the wall trim board), make a 90 degree angle, extend under the tile that should be left away from the wall, then have a turn up verticle. This keeps water from being forced back under the tile. There should also be kick out flashing at the fascia board.

You should also have adaquate underlayment such as GAF Weather Watch Leak Barrier or Tamko Metal And Tile underlayment.
 
I'm not sure if Oldog made a suggestion there but I would consider cutting back the higher over hang to about have of what you have now as the tile are to heavy for that structure. While you have that open you would have access to the lower roof and make whatever changes that are need to made there.
 
Thanks! What do you think of this rebuild of the overhang as well as the copper flashing job and would you leave the copper exposed or paint over it?

FWIW, my chimney guy and the sheet metal co making my new custom chimney cover/cap, both recommended I NOT have it made in copper but rather stainless steel.

BEFORE:
dsc0061zo.jpg



AFTER:
dsc0690n.jpg


Also decided to get rid of the brick finish on the stucco chimney...Did the same to the brick finish on the first floor front of the house too...just not in this pic.
dsc0141az.jpg
 
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So you support the upper roof down to the lower roof, I hope your support landed close to a rafter in the lower roof. You will be saving a lot of weight by not tiling that area. I would still expect some movement in this area, so you stll want step flashing against the copper there. It sure looks better than it did.
 
The reason they advised you to fabricate the flashings and cap out of stainless is water wash off from the copper will turn the stucco green.
 
Thanks!
Only the chimney cover/cap was recommended in stainless steel. The flashing is all copper so, I'm going to have copper flashing but a stainless steel chimney cap.

That said, would you leave any of the copper flashing exposed obviously showing the 2 different metals or paint over some or all of the copper flashing?
 
It appears you added flashing on the face of the wood board & batten siding, then stucco over it. This will not work because the stucco will absorb moisture, saturating it and wetting the wood under it, expanding and breaking the seal and bond between the two dissimilar materials. Hence why they stucco on wire mesh or screen. A drainage gap is important from two layers of building paper under the stucco to prevent bonding; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-029-stucco-woes-the-perfect-storm

In addition, the 1x2 battens and boards require movement, for drying/expansion/contraction; http://www.cedar-siding.org/cedar-s...to-install-cedar-siding/board-and-batten.aspx

Gary
 
Thanks!
I'm comfortable with the copper flashing installation on the new overhang rebuild but I'd appreciate opinions on also using copper vs stainless steel for the chimney cover/cap. FWIW, the house is 1/4 mile from ocean and the newly re-stuccoed chimney will be painted most likely a light color i.e. yellow, white or cool grey.
 
The only problem with using copper is that it will turn the stucco green under the cap where the water drains off the top.
 
Thanks!

FWIW...I'm looking at combination of these two, of course the chase cover (bottom pic) will have an off-center square hole to match my chimney & the cap will have 3" drip edge on bottom:

flatcopperchimneycap.jpg

flatcopperchimneycapnew.jpg
 
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I would go with function over beauty. You and your friends will admire it for about six month. I would want something I could close from inside the house, espeacially for the winds you could get, you don't need a sail out there.
 
I would go with function over beauty. You and your friends will admire it for about six month.
Thanks!
It's my understanding that copper should function best in coastal areas but will look ugly green sooner rather than later...
That said, was that a vote copper or stainless?

I would want something I could close from inside the house, espeacially for the winds you could get, you don't need a sail out there.
The damper closes inside the house ;)
 
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Either will work fine.

The dampers that nealtw is referring to (I think) are the units that are spring loaded and virtually airtight from the top side.

They are much more preferred in heating climates like he and I are in.
 
Either will work fine.

The dampers that nealtw is referring to (I think) are the units that are spring loaded and virtually airtight from the top side.

They are much more preferred in heating climates like he and I are in.

They work good in windy conditions and keeping critters out.
 
Thanks!
I went with stainless. My only concern is how do you think it will look with a stainless chimney cap and copper flashing at both the bottom of the chimney and also along the roof to wall connection in front of house?
 
Both the copper and the stainless will loose their luster after a while. If it was my house, I'd put the stainless cap on because of the discoloration the copper would make on the chimney chase. That's just my :2cents:
 

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