How to get this ready for cabinets and appliances?

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farmerjohn1324 said:
Obviously I need to put drywall over the pipes. How do I build back the wood frame support?

What should I do where the brick was in the corner? I would like for it to just look like the rest of the wall. Plain, flat, and white.

And what could I do about hiding the wires that are near the ceiling? The handyman that was working mentioned putting some drywall there in the shape of a triangle. How many wood cleats would I need for this? What size wood and on all 3 sides?

Also, how do I know how many coats of drywall mud were put on this ceiling? I wasn't here when it was done. Is it ready for painting? What would be the danger of painting with too few coats? What is the purpose of the second and third drywall mud coat?
Click to expand...

Back to your original question.

On the lower portion of the wall (where all the pipes are) use 1/2" plywood to cover it instead of drywall. There are missing studs and the plywood will be strong enough behind your cabinets.

On the triangle piece, you can use construction adhesive to attach another piece of drywall to that existing piece....if that's what you were asking (hard to tell from the photo).

Your ceiling does NOT have enough joint compound. It should have been feathered out at least 6" on both sides of the tape. Looks like someone skipped the last steps.

Dave Mason
 
Are these the right kind of screws to install cabinets?

2.5" into the studs, then 1.5" to fasten cabinets to each other? And 15 ga finishing nails for trim pieces and end panels?

0107181931.jpg
 
farmerjohn1324 said:
Are these the right kind of screws to install cabinets?

2.5" into the studs, then 1.5" to fasten cabinets to each other? And 15 ga finishing nails for trim pieces and end panels?
Click to expand...

They are correct for attaching to the walls, and incorrect for tying them together.

You tie them together by removing the doors and hinges, clamp the cabinets together, then with one of the bits neal posted, you pilot and countersink, so that when the hinges are reinstalled they hide the screw heads, so the screw head ends up flush with the face frame surface, then use coarse thred drywall screws to pull them together.

Your finish nails are too long as well.
 
Snoonyb said:
They are correct for attaching to the walls, and incorrect for tying them together.

You tie them together by removing the doors and hinges, clamp the cabinets together, then with one of the bits neal posted, you pilot and countersink, so that when the hinges are reinstalled they hide the screw heads, so the screw head ends up flush with the face frame surface, then use coarse thred drywall screws to pull them together.

Your finish nails are too long as well.
Click to expand...

Okay thanks.

The finish nails in that picture are by accident. I didn't realize they were sitting there.
 
I use a trim head screw for attaching cabinets together. Length depends on weather you have face frame cabinets or frameless. For attaching to studs I use a washer head screw which won't pull through the cabinet back.

Dave Mason
 
Guy told me to replace this top section of drywall with plywood so the cabinets can screw in better. Do you agree?

0112182221.jpg
 
Have him help you free of charge, and guarantee the firewall.

Or find the studs and use the truss head screws you asked about.
 
Snoonyb said:
Look up firewall.
Click to expand...

I already did.

"a wall or partition designed to inhibit or prevent the spread of fire."

I still don't get what you're saying.

Which one?

A: Plywood
B: no plywood

I'll probably just go with what he says anyway
 
To get this thread back on topic before I close it.

If you want drywall as a fire break and that is a good idea. Plus the cost of drywall is much lower than plywood. You can predetermine where you will be attaching cabinets and put a 2x4 horizontal nailer securely between the studs at the right heights.

It is basically blocking screwed in to be strong. It is no different than what one should do in a bathroom when you know where the TP holder will be mounted or towel bars.

Now play nice boys.
 
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