Replacing / Repairing T1-11 Siding...

Hello... newbie to the forum and aspiring DIY'er here... Got a question about T1-11 Siding...

We're looking at buying a house for two of our kids to live in while going to college, and it has T1-11, likely original to it's 1983 construction. Most of it appears in good shape, though badly in need of paint. On the side facing the worst of the weather & sun there are a couple of the vertical panels with obvious rot / bowing / deterioration, about 2 feet up from the bottom....

So... 1) Is it possible to replace a few panels of this siding or would we have to replace that entire side of the house?

2) Can anyone describe in detail the Z flashing I've read about so I can tell whether it was installed here or not? Anyone know if there are pics on the web anywhere?

3) In general, is T1-11 easy to work with and install, for a novice DIY'er, or would we likely need to hire a contractor for this job? (As a reference for my skill level, I've installed hardwood floors, built a lighted & heated chicken coop, rewired outlets and electric boxes and built sizable decks. So far, nothing has burned or fallen down... :>) ....)

Any advice is welcomed... we're trying to decide how much to offer on this house and so we need to determine how big this problem is....

--Mike

Welcome Mike:
Yes, you can replace a few panels of the T-111 without any problem.
The Z flashing is usually used at the top of the sheets of T111; one leg of the Z would be under and behind whatever is above, while the other leg would be out and over the top of the sheets. We call it Z flashing but it is really a double ell.
Glenn

Just like Glenn said. The other things to do are , you need to paint all the edges you can before you nail it up. The edges are what absorbs moisture. When I do repair I also stick a piece of tar-paper behind the seam I am replacing.This helps when there is a leak to get the water out onto the z flashing and out from behind the panel.
It is one of the easiest sidings to install, Easy level of DIY.

Thanks for the replies! Sounds like it shouldn't be much of a deal breaker on the house...

A couple more questions....

Does it generally nail up to the underlying wood, or use a kind of clip / hanger system like vinyl siding?

There should be a plywood base under t111, right.... it's not ever put directly on the studs, is it... as an exterior wall structure...? I'm just thinking that it is likely that any plywood under the damaged t111 panels will be water damaged / rotted as well....

--Mike

Yes it it usually nailed directly to the studs with no moisture or wind barrier underneath. That is why I suggested a piece of tar paper at the joint. There could be damage under it, but only removing it will let you know for sure.
T- 111 is a 10-15 year product for our area in the north. The panels are really made for outbuildings where there is no heat on the inside of the structure. This can be sided over with vinyl siding or whatever you want to cover it with in the future.
Hope this helps you out. And get a good inspector from American Society of Home Inspectors, ASHI. If you have not already.They are the best in their fields in my opinion.

thanks for all the information but I want to cut 2 feet of my T1-11 and replace it with new? should i install the Z flashing or just cut the old and new at a 45 degree angle to prevent mositure coming into house/ Please tell which is the best way to replace my 2 feet of T1-11
sonny

Far easyer and better to replace the whole panel. Each piece over laps the other, so if you cut it in the middle there's no over lap.
Your going to need what's called a cats paw nail puller to pull all the nails where the seams overlap and in the field (middle) so the panel can be removed. If all the nails are pulled you should be able drop the panel so the Z molding does not get bent and stays in place.
Measure the panels height before removing it. Years ago it was common to see 9' panels, now there special order and will cost abot 60 to $90.00 each.
T-11 was never meant to be installed within 12" of the ground any closer or if some builds a deck up againt it and it's going to rot.
Most often I suggest people just go right over it with vinyl siding so there will no longer be any maintance, just a pressure washing once in a while. Lot easer then painting.
I also suggest not using paint, instead use solid color stain. It can be mixed to almost any color to match the rest of the house now.
Someones going to suggest using oil based paint I'm sure, do not do it, oil paint does not breathe and will peel in no time. Stain soaks in and does not peel like paint will.
When you nail it back up use double dipped spriral #8 p nails.
http://www.life123.com/home-garden/building-renovations/home-siding/how-to-install-t-11-siding.shtml

Sir
I meant to say that i have rot about one ft from the ground and it runs about 26 feet? I wanted to cut two feet from ground at a 45 degree angle and remove the 26 feet after i remove the nails you mention with cats paw that i have. but the new 2ft section will be cut with 45 degreee angle to match up with the 2 ft i took off....i will prime and paint the WHOLE board includeing all sides prior to installing it. The rest of house has brick and other siding is good. I am confgused after reading what i just wrote...please bear with a electonics person and not a hammer and nail but can use them if need be . thanks and will wiat for your anser to all my silly questions
Is This Country Great or
What

If you insist on just cuting out that bottom section there's going to be a line all the way across the wall that's going to look odd.
It will be nearly imposable to get a perfectly straight 45% cut that long with a ciruler saw even if you use a 2 X4 screwed to the wall as a guide because the blades going to want to over heat and warp. It also will expose more of the end grain that way and increace the chance of water getting to the end grain, plus the new wood your going to buy may be a slightly differant profile or spacing of the groves and would be really hard to line it up as your installing. I would make a straight cut across the whole wall and use Zmolding instead. But sealing any end cuts before installing is very important.New T-11 soaks up paint or stain like crazy so make sure to do two coats on the face and three on any cuts or end grain. I've gone so far as to seal the bottom closest to the ground with West System when I had some laying around.

I vote with joecaption on this one--don't use a bevel cut, but rather a 90-degree (straight) cut and then Z-flashing. If you don't care for the flashing's appearance, cover it with a (caulked) run of vinyl molding all around, painted to match the rest of the house's trim color.

If you go with the vinyl trim look for the type that has the finished edge on all sides. Some have open foam core showing and it tends to mold up.
I'd give it a light sanding before painting to give it some tooth for the paint to hang onto. Also only use 100% acrilic latex paint or it will peel.
Use stainless steel trim head or ceramic trim head screws to attach it. Finish nails tend to pull through as the vinyl expands and contracts. Just fill the heads with 50 year latex caulking and wipe the face of the material with a damp sponge making sure there's 0 caulking left on the face of the materail or it will show when painted.