Can you help a newbie renovate the bathroom shower?

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cyancat

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Hello all.

I am a newbie to the renovating world, well in the area that I want to tackle at least, the bathroom. And I need some knowledgeable help. I am just going to throw it all out there because I don't know what you might be wanting to see.

I have gotten sick of what my bathroom shower looks like and have decided to fix it up. Years ago my father put in the 'new' shower and never did anything after installing it. Now I've had it with seeing all the spiders up in the corners.

000_0125.jpg

Here is what one corner of the shower looks like and the other is...

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There are some screws on each side of the plastic shower edges which I figure I can just zap in a bit tighter so they don't stick out.

But what I want to do with this is put some kind of tile up there. I saw some glass colored tiles at Menards lately
like this:
http://www.glasstilestore.com/product_p/metalic%20cranberry.htm
that I liked, on a string mesh so that you can cut it accordingly. I thought something like that would be nice to put up there.

What is your opinion on doing that above the shower? Should I be putting down something like another layer of wood before the tile, well evidently on the right side since there are big gaping holes there, but all over as well? And is there anything I should do about the top edge of the shower as well, since it has a small ledge at the top?

Another picture for effect:

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000_0130.jpg
 
Hi Cyancat, and welcom to the forums.

I wouldn't put the tiles directly on the wood. Better to put drywall or backer board first, and apply the tile to that.
 
Go for the drywall, the plywood could be used with a mastic glue but....the removal someday will be very hard.
Plus the drywall does a better finish on the other wall, and joint compound is cheap to fix those tie in areas.
Put on some tunes and good luck with your fun little project.:D
 
Welcome Cyancat:
I agree that you need drywall, I would use the MR board (moisture resistant, has a green paper on it) to cover the whole area. I would even replace the ceiling with MR board because it looks like styrofoam tile up there now and it will yellow over the years and is very delicate. The drywall should overlap the flange on the tub and be caulked to the tub with silicone for a water proof seal. That's a nice project for the time of year, being inside, dry and warm.
Glenn
 
Thank you all for the quick responses.

I appreciate all the help that you can give!

As you all have stated, looks like I will have to be getting some silicone caulk and MR drywall the next time that I go to Menards.
THank you so much.

If you have any ideas or tips on doing the tiling after I put up the drywall, I'd love to hear them. :)
 
Hello Cyancat:
Using the small glass tiles you talked about before should make it a little easier. The 4 X 4 tiles require some fancy cuts that would be a real challenge. You may still find a rental, tabletop tile cutter to be handy.
Glenn
 
You can always check out your library for free books on any subject...even tiling.
They will give you the basic knowledge, we can help with any questions.:D
I try to get folks to use the library often, lots of pictures with the books.:)
 
I think tile would look funny in that area. Just the green board and paint is all I would do.

If you DO tile then you will want tile backer board, NOT drywall.
 
If one puts green board up around a shower, how do you finish the edges of the sheetrock? I am assuming the sheetrock goes over the surround? Or does it go behind? If behind, how do you cover the edges of the surround?

That's a job I have to face soon.

Thanks
Randy
 
Why on earth would anyone want a gypsum based product anywhere near moisture? I'm not trying to be rude ... just make a point. Greenboard is no better than regular drywall .... it isn't water-resistant. It will most definately break down over time sooner or later depending on vapor.
 
Okay, in my case I am kinda free to do anything at this point. What would you suggest? I don't like the masonite bathroom board for the same reasons. Locally, the Lowe's has yellow board, which has no paper. I was going to use that. I don;t think I'm up to tiling yet. At least I'd rather not be tiling around a fiberglass shower surround. Seems pointless to me.

I have lived in a house for 30 years that has non green sheetrock in the bathroom, and around and above the bath tub. Has been repainted with primers and mold resistant paint and no signs of breakdown in the last 12 years since the repaint. So I figured the yellow board would work fine. by the time it breaks down, we'll be ready to re-do again.

But I am open to suggestions.

Randy
 
Here's a great selection of articles for your bath project... Bathroom Remodeling.

Also, never discount the help you can receive from your local Home Depot or Lowes workers. There's always at least one knowledgeable person there that can help you.
 
I think i posted this in the wrong thread...oops!

Here's a great selection of articles for your bath project... Bathroom Remodeling.

Also, never discount the help you can receive from your local Home Depot or Lowes workers. There's always at least one knowledgeable person there that can help you.
 
nevermind, i just realized there was a second page. Sorry!
 
I'd like to point out a few things. Drywall is never the best choice but I have been in lots of 20 - 30 year old homes that have weathered just fine but on the other hand I have been in older homes were it did not weather good, I believe a lot has to do with installation and maintenance and just how close to water its getting.Shower curtains are famous for letting water escape out the sides so if there is regular drywall your going to have a problem at some point in time. checking the caulking is very very important, if it has a crack its going to let water in and thats a no no so if a person checks this and repairs it when it happens you have a better chance of it surviving.
I have seen lots of drywall fail with tile work on it, again its usually cracked caulking or the grout has either cracked or was never sealed.
So you see it really comes down to the installation and workmanship but if you notice there is a common denominator here " Drywall".
Green board has been used for years and the misconception is they say it's water proof ....Wrong, it is is moisture resistant but only for so long with repeated water getting on it .
Now having said this I have installed lots of green board around acrylic shower tubs without any problems but I take special care in the installation. I also point out to my customers the point I made above about shower curtains and they almost all put shower doors in. Buy the way do not use 100% silicone against a surface thats going to be painted instead us a mildew resistant acrylic caulking with silicone that way you can paint it. Paint does not stick to pure silicone. I use silicone when installing shower doors in these acrylic units.
 
What I pay attention to the most is a bathroom fan/vent. The better the fan , the more water you remove from the room.

We could just install the bathrooms back outside...but that would be to much sense. We contractors have to stay in business somehow.:D If all the homes where perfect we would have nothing to fix.
 
What I pay attention to the most is a bathroom fan/vent. The better the fan , the more water you remove from the room.

We could just install the bathrooms back outside...but that would be to much sense. We contractors have to stay in business somehow.:D If all the homes where perfect we would have nothing to fix.

Totaly agree with the fan but you know something funny, I have been renovating a house for the past 6 months and the bath upstairs which has a tub/shower has no fan but does have a window and there is not a single sign of trouble in there. I just can't beleive it and the house was built in the late 60's.:confused:
Hummmmmmm, outhouse renovations:D :D
 
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