Newel post placement

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Gary said:
O.K., so now you know I have too much time on my hands. I'm on the injury list so I have to stay busy somehow.
Another solution might be to use metal plate, 3/16" would be more than plenty. You could probably get by with just the one plate on the front of the post as your railing would hold it from moving parallel to the stairs. And, a wide plate on the front would hold it from moving side to side because the plate would be in shear. Hear again though, it still depends on how well it can be anchored to something solid under the carpet. The plate wouldn't have to be thick, as I mentioned you would be putting a shear load on it, and it could be hidden by routing a cavity in the back side of the wood you box it in with. If you can pull the carpet up you could chisel a 3/16" pocket in the floor to eliminate a carpet bump. A matting plate under the floor and it would be solid.

If you're lucky enough to have a floor joist in that location to tie it off to that would be great.
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If he has access to the framing below the sub floor will be in the way, but he could cut a hole so he could use nuts and bolts for the straps.
There is smaller system made for this. Kit 505
https://stairfasteners.com/s_newel.htm
 
I just cut a hole in the ceiling to reveal the underside of the stairs and all I can see is a plywood box on which sits the stringer. I drilled down thru the stringer 10" towards the basement but never saw the end of the drill bit (probably need a bit 2-3" longer)

I like your idea of encasing the post and stringer in metal plates because I could bolt thru to both sides of the stringer and post. For the underside of the stringer, I'll attach some sort of structure to bolt the base of the metal plates to.

stair1.jpg

stair2.jpg
 
That is a different picture than I was envisioning but that still is not strong enough so bolting thru to below some how is the best.
You landing does want to be 36" from the nose of the stairs. That might change where you place the post.
 
Not sure if this gives any idea as to the strength of the knee wall but the original railing was a one piece metal hand rail that had three attachment points to the inside of the knee wall and also at the top of the stairs to a wall.
 
Steel might be more ridged. But my fear with the stringer is a few nails or screws to the floors and what ever is holding the treads in slots in the stingers. Could be just glue.
 
After going through all my options and considering I's have to cut my carpet in 2 or 3 spots I decided to go a different route and go with metal newel posts that can be attached to the wall instead of the floor and cable to take the place of balusters.

I appreciate all the good advice everyone posted.
 
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