slownsteady
Well-Known Member
I found the flashing tape today at the local building supply. When i asked about galvanized, the guy suggested that the flash tape would do the same function.
Protecting framing below grade
- Thread starter slownsteady
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
nealtw
Contractor retired
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Construc...anized-Roll-Valley-Flashing-RV1225G/202092555.
You want to cover the wood below deck level and protect the top by slipping it under the siding so some will be exposed to UV rays. Ask him about that??"
You want to cover the wood below deck level and protect the top by slipping it under the siding so some will be exposed to UV rays. Ask him about that??"
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
Yep, I get it. I guess he was assuming I would cut it off at finished height.
I'm working on demo of the old concrete. i want to get a look at the rest of that sill plate before i go too far. Looks like some of it may be old damage, as I can see a bit under the doorway, and the concrete there is shoved into the area where the sill plate would have been (not a smooth seam). Sure hoping I don't have to jack up that wall because there are two windows and a door above. Fortunately there is no second floor over this.
I'm working on demo of the old concrete. i want to get a look at the rest of that sill plate before i go too far. Looks like some of it may be old damage, as I can see a bit under the doorway, and the concrete there is shoved into the area where the sill plate would have been (not a smooth seam). Sure hoping I don't have to jack up that wall because there are two windows and a door above. Fortunately there is no second floor over this.
nealtw
Contractor retired
If I built your house it would have a header full with of that wall, but in older houses you just don't know what there is there, sometimes very little. So the important areas will be the studs on each side of the doors and windows that should be there to hold up the headers. If you are really concerned when things start crumbling, take the trim off the inside of the door frame and place a 2x12 against the wall full length and screw to all the studs. Right at the floor and you can still sorta use the door.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
I had to jack up the wall and replace the sill plate and rim joist. My neighbor has pro experience with this, so i grabbed him for a bit and he helped me jack it up. Then he disappeared for a day and I put in the new lumber. It went pretty smooth, and we lowered the wall down yesterday. Pics to follow.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
I did a video tour of the wall before i made the repairs. You can find that here:
https://youtu.be/C9G5CdTGlos
I used my best jersey accent to narrate
If you have been following this project, you'll see how it ties into the paver part of the project. I have pics of after the rebuild. sorry no video of that...I had my hands full. I will try to get them up soon.
https://youtu.be/C9G5CdTGlos
I used my best jersey accent to narrate
If you have been following this project, you'll see how it ties into the paver part of the project. I have pics of after the rebuild. sorry no video of that...I had my hands full. I will try to get them up soon.
nealtw
Contractor retired
I didn't see the Z flashing between the old and new siding? Instead of OSB for that spot I would have suggest a treated 2x10 or 2x12
Honestly you have went so far already if it was mine I would take that wall out and forget about jacking anything up and rebuild it from the top. It looks like your main entry point and a perfect opportunity to get a 36” door in there and some smaller double hung windows that could be opened. Once the wall is out of there the work would be straight forward. Put new good sheathing and insulation etc.
Trying to build a ship in a bottle is never fun. You could have it opened up fixed and closed to the weather all in one day.
Trying to build a ship in a bottle is never fun. You could have it opened up fixed and closed to the weather all in one day.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
These are pics taken during the fix. Sorry if they are out of order, but it is easy to figure out. We also filled the top of the block wall with cement before we put in the sill plate. The vycor is not shown here but it runs up to the bottom of the door. We have been considering changing the door and windows while we have the wall open. A 3 ft door with sidelights instead of windows would be our first choice. we could then move the light above the door to put one on each side. Just don't know if we can get it done before the cold weather.
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nealtw
Contractor retired
Interesting perspective.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
They were right side up on my computer. Don't know how they got flipped. So i flipped them and they're still upside down.
Finally got one right....
Finally got one right....
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nealtw
Contractor retired
Are you loading straight from the computer. I can't do anything with them.
It does look like You have it well under control.
It does look like You have it well under control.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
At this point, I think I have to let the door and windows stay put. Not only will the budget be a problem but the season is getting short and if I get busy at work like I did this last week, i will be screwed. I am going to have to arrange things so i can put in the pavers, and close up the lower half of the wall, but then allow it come apart in the spring without digging back in to the pavers.
nealtw
Contractor retired
You will have the rim and joists fixed the door and window won't be a problem next year. The header is fine.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
I have to replace the fiberboard sheathing below the windows. My first thought was to put in a single piece under each window that went down all the way to the sill plate. But since the sill and part of the rim joist will be below the pavers, I think I need to use a separate piece at the bottom. Do I have to worry about having a seam in the sheathing too close to the ground?
nealtw
Contractor retired
No, the wall is usually dealt with sepperately.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
Because I'm working up against the old siding and sheathing I wasn't able to get my new plywood sheathing snug against each other in the inside corner. Probably about a half-inch gap in there. Can I fill it with expanding foam or something?
nealtw
Contractor retired
Don't wory about it, but do you ave a plan for getting house wrap or something behind the AL. in the corner?
