Best wood species for bare clapboard siding

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freedomdepartment

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Hey all - I'm building a barn in my backyard, and am going to be putting up traditional wood clapboard siding.

I am going for the vintage/historic/weathered "farmhouse" look, and so will be painting with oil-base paint, so that it will craze and crack and chip off over time, for that authentic look.

Thus, the bare surface of the wood will be exposed to the elements (though all the cracks and missing paint chips), which includes plenty of moisture, since I live in eastern North Carolina.

What wood would be the best to use for this project?

The boards will be 1/2" thick and 5-1/2" wide (basically thin 1x6's), installed with a 1" overlap for a 4-1/2" exposure.

Obviously the traditional wood around here would have been southern yellow pine, but that old-growth virgin wood which could stand up to bare exposure is long gone, and the modern stuff is crap that will warp, split, check, and rot within months.

I need something dimensionally stable, that won't warp/split/crack/twist/cup/etc. with the exposure to the elements.

I had been considering sugar pine, ponderosa pine, western red cedar, clear-vertical-grain douglas fir, and baldcypress. Perhaps none of these are good ideas. Perhaps there's another idea I haven't thought of yet.

Obviously, pressure-treated is out of the question. So is reclaimed old-growth SYP, since it would be full of nail-holes, and of odd short lengths.

Oh, and no redwood or tropical hardwoods (mahogany, paduak, jatoba, etc.)!

And while a very few small, sound knots are okay, something with a ton of knots (even if they're just pin knots) is out of the question...so no knotty pine!

THANKS!
 
the tried and true is always western red ceder and you can use tappered for easy instulation. For long lasting I would strap the house first with 1/2 x 2 so air can get between the siding and the paper and keep the siding dry. Primer both sides before installing with an oil base primer. Add window screening top and bottom to keep the bugs out. Have a look at Hardey siding it sure looks like wood when its up.
 
Great article, Thanks for sharing.
I know from my own experience this works well. We always use 15# felt(tar) paper on all wood siding, Due to the reaction of housewraps a few years back...even though we backprimed with oil.
 
I'm shocked you want the paint to peel. What a mess.
James Hardee looks like real wood and would only need repainting about every 15 years and termites can not eat it.
If you do use real wood go with a soild color stain on all sides and on any cuts you make. That way it will fade but not peel.
 
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