Removing glass shower door frame

I removed our glass shower doors some time ago but am still plagued by the frame and tracks - not only how they look but the disgusting residue that mounts up in the tracks. I have no plans to put in another set of doors and I should like to remove the frame and tracks. I have hesitated doing this (after one half-hearted attempt) because I fear that I shall destroy the tile and/or the tub area to which they are affixed. This fear is based on what appears to be glue or caulk that seems to be immutable.

Actually, how hard is this to do? And what, actually, is the process? And, worst case scenario, are there any products to repair any ensuing damage that might be caused by the removal?

Thank you for reading this post and for, possibly, responding with assistance. (A Note: I did search to determine if this had been addressed previously and could not find evidence that it had been.)

Gramma Pat

Usually the tracks are sealed with a silicone caulk, and then screwed, the best way to do this is to use a utility knife to cut the silicone on all sides, then use a putty knife to get under the track, Go slow and keep working it you might have to work up to using a flat bar. it will come out, take your time, and good luck.

Most framed shower doors have 3 screws on each side.
If this was a sliding glass door you will want to swing out the panels. Then you can pop the header off. You should be able to push the header upwards with your hand and then gently pivot one side out and pull the header off. Then remove the screws from each side. You will have to slice the silicone with a razor and then the side jambs should come off. Then you should be able to pull up the bottom track. The bottom track will most likely have silicone underneath. Then you can clean all that silicone off with razor blades and alcohol.

if it is a framed swinging door the uninstall will be almost the same. Basically look for any screw you can see and remove it. Then try taking off the header and then the side metal and then the sill. Lastly clean up the silicone.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Thanks for your response. The frame and header are out. There was no damage to the tub and just a couple of small holes in the tile(very small) that I filled in and that don't even show. I am so glad that I did this. (Actually, one of my sons did it.) Thanks to everyone for their assistance.

I removed the doors and the track but there seems to be some black discoloration in the bottom corners of the fiberglass shower...and also some etching where the glue was...any suggestions how to get that blck off or fill in the thin line where it is etched in spots?
Thank you,
DC

Try a 50-50 solution of bleach and water on black. If it works at all you can increase bleach strength. Be sure and rinse well with water before switching to another product.

Try plain white vinegar, warm it soome, almost hot, let it soak for a while.

You know not to use abrasives on glass, Bar Keepers Friend and Zuds are low abrasive chemicals with bleaching action. Use a nylon srubber. If you need to scrape, try cheap throw away putty knives, wooden kitchen spatula, popsicle sticks.

If black seems to be glue or caulk residue, mineral spirits ( paint thinner, NOT paint REMOVER!)), products such as 'Goof Off" "Goop" may remove it, if label says safe for fiberglass ( most are) and that it does work on glues and caulking.

You may need to go to stronger chemical. Boating, marine supply may be better source for them. Try a stronger oxalic acid product than Bar Keepers.. They can suggest other products. Work your way up from bleach and vinegar to stronger stuff.

The "etching" may be more of problem, how deep is it? Not thru to glass substrate? Some folks have had luck hiding slight pitting with silicon spray, which will need refreshing from time to time. Some use ordinary paste wax. Marine supply will have various fillers, "waxes" and "polishishes" and finish refreshers which are more permanent, thicker, some colored. There are 'artificial gel coats" for small areas.

You may have to go all the way to two part gel coat, which can require light sanding and buffing to get it to blend in. The worst case scenario would be complete refinishing.

I clean the surface where the metal track was with razor blades and acetone.
Just take your time and get off as much silicone as you can with the razor blades and then clean up with denatured alcohol or acetone. If you have sensitive hands don't use the acetone or wear gloves. The other reason to get all that silicone off is because new silicone will not stick to old silicone and that will cause problems as far as keeping water in your new shower door.
Once you get the screws out of the side jambs- do what 911handyman said and use a box cutter and cut that silicone carefully and pull the metal away from the wall. There are usually three screws on each side metal and none on the bottom metal. The bottom metal is probably glued down pretty good so you may want to get a pry bar or wood shims to help pry up that metal.

Showerguy; I was going to say welcome but I see you've been a member for years, welcome back, don't be a stranger.

hey thanks.

Can a older framed shower stall door be used without the bottom frame of the door being left on. The glass is fine but the bottom to hinges side of framing came apart. What can be some option's without the heaviest price tag. & It's a trailer sized shower stall so not very big. Thank you in advance

Not a good idea. The shower door is made of tempered glass and the edges are the weakest points. One wrong move and the whole door will turn into a pile of 1 million pieces of broken glass. Maybe clean out the track and apply some silicone to glue the track back on.
Post a pic so we can get a better idea of what the problem is and what the "hinges side" refers to.

Have you taken apart to see what let go? You may be able to just add a small angle bracket with a few pop rivits. In the mean time a few wraps of duck tape top tp bottom. With out the frame . the glass will fall out. Even if it is stuck right now it will fall out. It should be safety glass, tough stuff but don't bump the side or ends.

July, 2013
Everything was going smooth on removing the first shower door side frame when about 2/3 of the way down I discovered some stupid jack_ _ s cemented/super glued one section of the frame to a piece of tile. Up until that point, using caulk remover, plastic scraper, thin knife and A LOT of effort, the caulking (guessinge 20 years old and hard as brick) was separating slowly from the wall without damaging the tile. But, due to the one piece of tile that cracked then remained stuck to the frame which is no longer attached to the wall, I will now have to learn how to replace and caulk one piece of tile. BUMMER

July, 2013
Everything was going smooth on removing the first shower door side frame when about 2/3 of the way down I discovered some stupid jack_ _ s cemented/super glued one section of the frame to a piece of tile. Up until that point, using caulk remover, plastic scraper, thin knife and A LOT of effort, the caulking (guessinge 20 years old and hard as brick) was separating slowly from the wall without damaging the tile. But, due to the one piece of tile that cracked then remained stuck to the frame which is no longer attached to the wall, I will now have to learn how to replace and caulk one piece of tile. BUMMER

if I remove my shower door what can I use to fill in the holes from the screws

Shower and bath caulk.