some roof questions

Im really diggin that 45degree , drip edge vent idea.I ran across a thread you replied to a ways back. The guy posted this product.http://www.everflovent.com/pro_inhaler.html

I could easly fab somthing like that up at work.Then the drip edge vent is actually unable to get water in it behind the gutter( I wouldnt include that "inhaler vent") .

That would work no matter what type of roof I put down. Im kinda liking the metal roof idea because I can do it myself quickly , and without tearing off the single single layer there now. If I did go the make my own route I have acess to cheap metal and shops to fab. The one shop has a brake that is computerised , you punch the numbers into the program and it sets the depth and angle of brakes and does it all . You just have to flip or rotatethe peice when needed.

Favor time is gonna come with the next roof to the main house. I want to cut it all off and order trusses , build a couple walls androof it in a weekend. Maybe rent a lull .then im gonna need some hands.that may have to wait till the next summer .

Maybe rent a lull .??

It will be kind of tall being on the 2nd story. The pic is from the back side of the house as opposed to the front , which mkes it look single story. Figure I could cut off sections of the old with it and lift off , lift up wood for walls , set trusses , and lift whatever roofing I decide up.

Lull being a telescoping forktruck. Im certified so I dont see a problem with them renting me one. Hopfully get a good rate through work. We have them everywhere . Dozens at a time during peak season.

Now I get it. Should be handy for taking things down. We had one handy on a douplex house one time we didn't find it handy enough. We coordinate deliveries with crane trucks so we never have to hand bomb lumber around or up. We evan have the roof sheeting on the floor before we drop the trusses on top. we lay the trusses on the side so we can sheet the gables before they are stud up. Stand on top of a wall is a little scary sometimes.

Buffalo. if you are going to put a metal roof on, PLEASE tear off the existing shingles and put on a heat resistant underlayment made for hard surface roofing. If you leave the shingles, they will cook under the metal, curl and distort the metal pans. I've even seen them fracture the seams and cause numerous leaks. It's penny wise and dollar foolish to roof over the shingles. Trust me, I'm a roofer.

nealtw said:

Now I get it. Should be handy for taking things down. We had one handy on a douplex house one time we didn't find it handy enough. We coordinate deliveries with crane trucks so we never have to hand bomb lumber around or up. We evan have the roof sheeting on the floor before we drop the trusses on top. we lay the trusses on the side so we can sheet the gables before they are stud up. Stand on top of a wall is a little scary sometimes.

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Yea a crane would probabaly be ideal. But I'm not qualified and hiring an operator would cost me more. You guys that do this for a living have your timing/ coordination and methods down to a tee. I'm just trying too mooch your knowledge without being too sloppy :beer:

oldognewtrick said:

Buffalo. if you are going to put a metal roof on, PLEASE tear off the existing shingles and put on a heat resistant underlayment made for hard surface roofing. If you leave the shingles, they will cook under the metal, curl and distort the metal pans. I've even seen them fracture the seams and cause numerous leaks. It's penny wise and dollar foolish to roof over the shingles. Trust me, I'm a roofer.

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Thx for the advise and if I go metal i will tear them off. What exactly is a heat resistant underlayment? Are there different types for different applications?

People like yourself hang around big box stores to much. They will rent you a truck to take your lumber home. Find a real lumber yard in your area, they will have trucks of all sizes with and with out cranes. Here a drop load will cost about $60 and a crane will cost about $100 which includes about 15 minutes of crane time. You will have an advantage as half your floor is already in place so once you have cleared the debrea you will be able to have pre-cut studs wall sheeting and floor sheeting all delivered to the floor. Have your wets and joist delivered on the ground but make sure the wets are at least 14ft so you can lean up to to the house. Wets are the 2x4s or 2x6s for top and bottom plates and such and yeas you order wets, they are cheaper and they straighten out as you nail them in place. We would order the roof sheeting on a later order but you might have room for that too along with all the stuff to finish.
I doubt if your fork lift would be able to deliver all that material to the floor at the back of the house from the front.
Just some stuff to think about. The picture is a lumber real lumber truck.
On TV we see people pulling trusses up by hand from the ground, they lay them flat and pull them over the side wall and bend them. With the trusses comes a full set of instructions and the first page is the big warning about how to pick up the trusses or how not to pick up the trusses. You would have to be able to pick them up in the center with a chain and set them on the house and if not, get them delivered with a crane.

buffalo said:

Thx for the advise and if I go metal i will tear them off. What exactly is a heat resistant underlayment? Are there different types for different applications?

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Organic, 15/30lb felt, will break down under the heat. We use a material made by Tamko, called Metal and Tile underlayment. It's similar to Weather Wach, but it has a higher heat resistance. You can install this over your ply and have a 90 day UV exposure. There are some other synthetics that are good also, GAF, makes a product called Tiger Paw, that holds up well to UV and is also used a lot under hard surface roofing.

It's time for me to really start pricing everything out. If I do shingles what kind are the best?

If you do shingles, stick with either GAF or Certainteed.

If you do metal, don't forget all the accessories. You need to price the metal itself, lock strip along the eave, rake detail, valleys, ridge cap, Z bar for the cap and rakes, butyl tape, screws, wall flashing and flashings for your plumbing boots.

Alright after thinking about it a bit I'm droping all my crazy ideas and listening to you guys. I'm thinking about doing the entire roof for the whole house on one shot. I gotta rip 2 roofs off , and set trusses. Then I will use shingles recommended. If you look at my previous pics , on the main house , I need to build new walls on half the house in order to set trusses.I downloaded a drafting program sweethome3d to lay out my plans. I will want scissor trusses throughout for ceiling height. I priced out my crane and lull idea. A lull will cost me 1500 a month , crane 135$ hr. Although the crane I priced is prob to big. Anyway I still have questions.

1). What do I sheet my trusses with? Particle board ( osb?) Seems crappy , do you guys use plywood? What's recommended?

2). My drafting program seems like more of a final 3d view " apperance" program. I'm looking for some rough framing programs , any advise here?

3). I have plans for additions , which may include sliding glass doors , windows , in the existing sturcture that I may not get to till later. I know the basics of walls , but I'm unsure of framing requirements for windows and doors . I know size can vary , but can I prep the framing for things to be added in the future and in the now , just have it framed and fill with insulation untill I cut it open?

Before we bought a Lull, thats about what we were paying. Cant you set the trusses with the Lull?

If I were going to deck a house I was going to live in it wouldn't be OSB, it would be Advanteck...just my:2cents:

You will have to watch the thickness of the floor, 2x10 floor joist that we use will shrink to about 9 1/4" and you will want to match the thickness of the plywood or? subfloor.
I would use OSB roof sheeting for walls and roof it has lines printed for 16 and 24" on center nailing, even when they don't land on a stud the line helps.
If you want I will tell the horrors of using plywood, it cost more and it's quality, my a!!.
I have had a program by 3D Home Architect, basic but does the job, Just google them, for some reason I can't copy and paste there address.
We don't rent cranes, we just have thing delivered with trucks with cranes. Time saved is well worth the cost.

nealtw said:

I would use OSB roof sheeting for walls and roof it has lines printed for 16 and 24" on center nailing, even when they don't land on a stud the line helps.
If you want I will tell the horrors of using plywood, it cost more and it's quality, my a!!.
.

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Well, we agree to disagree, every house I've roofed with OSB was crap...sorry. I don't like how it swells when it absorbs moisture. Maybe your experience with OSB has been better.

oldognewtrick said:

Before we bought a Lull, thats about what we were paying. Cant you set the trusses with the Lull?

If I were going to deck a house I was going to live in it wouldn't be OSB, it would be Advanteck...just my:2cents:

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My train of thought was lifting the old roof off( in sections) and lift the new roof with a lull. Trusses and flooring and shingels ect.. with the lull. Although a crane would prob be easier , a lull will be cheaper with a lot more time to use. Don't think I could use the delivery crane , I need to have the trusses delivered while having the existing roof demoed , I'm not that good. I think I could get a good 5-10 guys for a weekend. I been banking favors for 10 yrs.:beer:

Any advise on pricing trusses? I'm gonna start calling next week. Is it basically , a start calling for prices with dimensions thing? Local would be cheaper?

nealtw said:

You will have to watch the thickness of the floor, 2x10 floor joist that we use will shrink to about 9 1/4" and you will want to match the thickness of the plywood or? subfloor.
I would use OSB roof sheeting for walls and roof it has lines printed for 16 and 24" on center nailing, even when they don't land on a stud the line helps.
If you want I will tell the horrors of using plywood, it cost more and it's quality, my a!!.
I have had a program by 3D Home Architect, basic but does the job, Just google them, for some reason I can't copy and paste there address.
We don't rent cranes, we just have thing delivered with trucks with cranes. Time saved is well worth the cost.

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I know osb is cheaper I've had some fall apart in my rainy outdoors , while plywood can take a beating. Obviously with a Proper roof you shouldnt have this concern. Talk to me guys. And what thickness? What are the pros and cons?

Thickness is min. code for your area, here it is 7/16. for the roof and walls that will be covered with anything but vinyl siding.
We just finished two custom houses, both used 1/2 plywood for everything and it rains here, just a little. Evan when we kept the plywood under tarps it swells with the moisture and warps. Makes it really hard to get it in the "H" clips on the roof. We had some rejected by the roofer because it delaminated when it got wet, 30 sheets had to come off on a 16/12 section of the roof and it's slimey to walk on when it is wet.
OSB will swell, so just keep a cover on it untill you use it, no problem.

Framing in for window and doors for future use is no problem. Headers that are more than 5ft want two jack studs under each end. windows are rough framed to the size of the window as in a 3. 0 x 5. 6 window the rough opening will be 36" wide and 66" high
Doors are 82 1/2" high and 2" wider than the door, so a 3. 0 x 80" door, the rough opening is 38" x 82 1/2". For an out swing door lower it by an inch.
A double door exterior door add three inches to the two doors so 36 +36 + 3
A double interior door, just add the 2 inches
Sliding glass patio door are windows so you frame them like 72" wide and 80" high.
And yes after you frame in a window, just add studs that can be removed later.

Getting prices on trusses can be tricky, trusses have to be engineered and guess who pays for that, sometimes you can get that done and shop for prices but usually you are stuck with the guy that had that work done. You do want to get onto people that buy trusses and find out who is the bargain outfit and who gives more problems than they are worth.
One of our very good outfits got bought out latey. We expect some mistakes from time to time but we had 6 major problems on one house with this outfit.

I ended up downloading a program called sketchup , ill start messing with it tomarrow.

I have some questions on tools. I'd like a nice saw and a nailgun. I have a large kobalt stationary compressor already with hoses to reach anywhere. On a Job the other day a carpentar had a nice dewalt saw on a table that cuts angles and straight cuts . All I currently have is a hand held circuliar saw. I don't mind buying tools ill have forever.

So my question is what kind of saw and nailguns should I bee looking at? I'm proba alt just construction simple walls with windows and doors. And I'd like a nailgun that I can use for framing and roofing. Can you change the nail types in most guns? I'm just looking for some equipment to get me through this adventure , I'm obviously not making a career out of it.