Weeping tile installation

Thanks, some great tips. I figure 5 feet is not so dangerous. I imagine working with a guy in the ditch and guy on the mini ex is more dangerous.
It is calling for bits of rain everyday for the next week, so even the rental guy suggested i wait to it is dry.
I've taken the old cladding off. Man that stuff is expensive new, like $5 a sq foot. I think i should use hardie board. i can run it right down to the weeping tile as the final protector for the polystyrene. only $1.25 a sq foot.

I am planning,

1) Pressure wash.
2) hydrological cement any cracks.
3) Rubberize water poof paint
4) 2.5" of foam glues on and the bottom edge
5) Plastic wrap
6) Hardie board all the way up to the vinyl siding. I wonder how i can attach the seams? Tuck tape everything i guess. Should stay one by the soil pressure.
7) then install the weeping pipes. Get ready for gutter drain pipes.
8) Order gravel
9) Get mini ex again or other type
10) Back fill half way then install gutter drains.
11) adjust grading so equal around entire house.
12) Layer of landscape fabric
13) Put 24x24" patio tiles on front and back so snow can be easily removed in winter.
14) fill edges with sand

That will be 20k sir! In reality it will probably only increase the property value 5-10k. See why working for other people is better than yourself.

Just a few thoughts.
Years ago I worked installing sewer pipe. I was on my hands and knees fitting a pipe together and just stud up when the side of a 4 ft ditch slumped in, I was backfilled to my knees and stuck and had to be dug out by others. Just a few seconds earlier I would have been in big trouble. Pay attention to water flowing from the sides of the ditch. The second guy is the guy that may have to save a life.

3) Rubberize water poof paint

Some materials are not compatable with foam

I would take a little different approach

I would forgo the waterproofing on the wall, glue the foam right to the concrete close the seams between the foam board with glue or foam rated caulk.
cover the foam with water proof membrane," not to expensive". just up to or just above the finished fill level.
If you have wood siding you would be able to slip a flashing up under it to direct water out past the foam board, with vinyl side you would have to re and re the bottom peice.
Another flashing above the top of the membrane
Then stocco the exposed foam between the flashing and ground level.
There is a much thicker landscape fabric that you can't get in box stores
http://www.rona.ca/en/foundation-waterproofing-membrane-0382009--1
http://www.bwgeotextile.com/dev/nonwoven-geotextile-fabric.html

Remember that gravel goes under the pipe also. So you need to have it on hand before you lay the pipe. You're gonna make a pipe burrito, with fabric being the outside layer all around the pipe & gravel.

Blue seal, what i can tell it should keep the dampness completely out of the walls, if the foam is just glued, damp air might get in eventually, if the foam separates from the wall for example. $140 a pail it better be good. A strong vapor barrier.

I figure the weeping pipe is solid and will sit above the soil, i dug extra deep in some places. So there is a gap underneath, when the gravel goes on top it will just slide underneath. No?

I see the porch will not be possible, soil is very hard. I think i'll do the cement work, would really make a difference. I was gonna use the gap filler as glue when i put the foam over it. Are you saying the blue skin and polystyrene are not compatible? I'm consulting google.

The rubber joint on the sewer pipe is normal when you join two different typs of pipe or when you can not spread the pipes to use the normal hub end. It shouldn't have been a problem but ??
When I said not compatable I was thinking you were using a tar type protuct on the wall that might affect the foam, just make sure you check what you are using.

Hi Neal, ya a guy is coming today to do the rest of the digging.
I will get him to excavate around the pipe and try the fix myself.

-glue a length of ABS to extend the pipe, then the y join, then another short piece and the rubber gaskets, hopefully it was a clean break i don't have to cut that stuff. (I think if you see the metal gasket there must have been no rubber used.)

This blue seal is water soluble and you made me check the instruction which was good, it says to apply it a thickness of 0.6" !
So one pail is only 150sq. I figure i will use a bit less above grade.

I wonder if there is any hope to excavate under the porch, looks really hard stone and rock. It's too bad because there is a lot of muck around there.

I wonder if i should run out get this guy a poker rod right now? He has to dig 7'x3'x6' trench!

I will tell him to dig a 1 foot x 5" trench beside the footer.

It looks like you have a coupling, not sure what the rusty part is but I would cut it back to insure a good joint.
http://www.missionrubber.com/Products/MissionEasternStandard.php

okay i did it, but a little problem...connection pipe is 1" to far right. I guess i didn't let the glue cure enough before i attached it the other end, but it wouldn't fit otherwise. Should i do it over? I won't get it in the other end anyways. I think it is alright. Tape makes it look bad but i just added it for extra protection. I tested it before the tape and it didn't seem to leak. The other tape is just temporary. I'll but some rocks under it. I could take the tape off and put some silicon around it for good measure?
I just want to know, did i commit a plumbing sin?

So i making a 6" x 8" trench measuring from the top of the footer. Then the burito shell, put the pipe in 2" high supported with a few rocks. Pour total 6" is enough? 2" will slide under the pipe. After 2" it will be 4"x15" wide to include the footer. Is that enough? How many yards should i order, roughly 90' permitter. I guess 1 yard of drainage gravel would be enough. I have lots of rocks around. I heard this area was a gravel yard at one time.

Foundations are in good shape i might add. Even after power washing and some rain these days, basement is bone dry. Seems some walls were very sticky with algae.

And what is back fill actually? Just the old dirt? Add some aggregate

Don't trust the gravel to fall around the side put your gravel down and level it as best you can and lay your pipe, eight or ten inches above the pipe with gravel close up the cloth, adding a little gravel to the backfill dirt is great idea.
Gravel....If each foot of pipe will take one cubic foot of gravel, one yard will go 27 ft maybe 30 ft for a meter. !000 sq ft house has 140 ft of pipe = five meters. That's rough just change the numbers to fit your job.

The problem is the dirt is piled so high there is no way to get around with the skid steer.
So i'll just use the many rocks that are around. Put some gravel in and go down and shovel it bit in.

I guess the gutter pipe should sit right on top of it.

I realize the gravel is an aggregate because it creates a bit air pocket around the foundations.

Some of the footer seems damaged so gaps around there. I am thinking hit with the gap foam first, then trim any extra and paint with the blueseal which is suppose to stick to foam.

I found a good web page that explains it. https://pro.homeadvisor.com/article.show.Foundation-Drainage.13702.html

They don't usually seal the footing as that is below the floor inside.

Really? might as well seal them with the gap fill and blue seal. Start the gravel there.

I guess i can use that same gravel for the bed of patio stones?
I better get some more gravel while have the skid steer handy. I think 4' x 100sq ft, i'll work out a design... so what's that a yard and half all together?

How long do you think the back and the gravel will take? Maybe i can get the skid steer at 10am, then the next morning they can deliver the pea drive way gravel. Then i can do the drive as well in the same rental.

4' x 100sq ft, i'll work out a design... so what's that a yard and half all together?
sounds close

Well i washed the footers today. There are weird chunks of concrete and gaps in a few places.

I'm think it is better to put it on the footer, the old tiles are still bellow the foot, not easy to get out. I get the feeling the water will go towards that corner of the footer.


Also since there is still not much water coming in, even with lots of washing right in holes etc. It is amazing how much dirt is in some holes, also the algae sludge on the one wall was no doubt the problem with the smell.
It maybe he did not pump the septic or add enzymes when they switched over and so it oozed around the foundation wall. Perhaps just bacteria build up and poor drainage.

So what should i do about these chunks, maybe the pic is not that good but it is about 4-6" high a few of them. 1) try and remove them, doubtful 2) put the pipe beside them 3) build corner pipe that goes around the chunks but keep close to the footer corner. 4) Put the pipe bellow the footer, beside the old tiles, means some more hand digging.

They have done what we call mono pour when you fill the footings and walls at the same time. We fill the footing first and wait a while for that to harden up but sometimes if the footing isn't set up, it will start to push up out of the footing and that what you have with those lumps. We have had a fountain where the whole wall full of concrete come out like that, just go around them.

Your wall will not leak now because the water has an easier path. Water filled dirt pushing against the house could be tons of pressure and if the water gets stuck there it will find away thru concrete.

Neal's right. By installing the drain, you are relieving the pressure and giving the water a way to go. It's really all about relieving the pressure. The pipe does not have to be perfectly flush to the house. The gravel will fill those voids and allow the water to get to the pipe. Be generous with the gravel - make a large enough drain area so the water has a path to the pipe.

I've put 2 pails of blue skin on. I mostly paint to the grade.

Do you think i should get another $140 pail?

Consider i will glue foam eps sheets on there and cover with 10mm poly, probably not necessary and i am tired of painting chemicals right now. I'm thinking it is enough.

Hope you nailed that back door shut for now:2cents:

It's hard to close that door and walk the plank at the same time. Yesterday i forgot and about 10 flies got in.
Turns out the old foam board Stan used in the attic was code board for the foundations, there was a bunch in the basement i didn't have a use for, better not to be in the house. So i've just clued the old pieces on, looks like R10 after all.