Basement Window supporting 2 joists

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Yes its currently a single. Its on my todo list to double it up. Galvanized hangers and galvanized hanger nails I think they are 16d or maybe 10d, but they were what was required specifically for these hangers.
 
I have a plan, you may not like it but you can think about it.
Cut the two deck joists off at the wall and remove them from under the deck.
Remove brick and rim joist above the window and 3 inches on each side.
Cut back the two floor joists inside and slide in a beam like 3 1/2 x 9 1/2 or whatever fits
Hang the floor joists off the beam inside and out
Replace the lentle with one long enough to work and rebrick.

In fact all the deck joists should be removed from the house and those holes bricked up and a ledger added to the outside of the brick.
 
Be careful with that neal, you still need to support the brick above the deck.
Good concept though, maybe a piece of steel with some wood on the inside.
Or?....
 
Way more work than what's needed. Spending 3 or 4 months on a 4-hour project never made sense to me. Along with cutting off perfectly good members.

But, hey, don't listen to me--I've always been guilty of doing things the most practical way for the situation at hand, in a manner that effectively deals with whatever structural requirements are necessary to keep the place standing.
 
Bridgeman; In your first posting you asked for more information on the sturcture. Now that you know that it has the load of the floor the roof and half a large window and the deck, do you still think a 4x4 will add anything to the structure? As I don't have experience with brick, perhaps you can tell me about the lintel, it dosn't seem to extend past the window frame, is the window frame supporting it?
 
Neal, I would definitely prefer an easier solution (who wouldn't), however I understand what you are saying and why you suggested it. Its definitely above my pay grade and comfort level. Also you are not the first one to suggest cutting off the deck joists and adding a support beam outside.

Bridgeman, if you have an alternative easier solution I am definitely open to it. And I don't entirely understand lintels myself, but it appears to me that this one is just steel angle holding up the brick around the window.

I really appreciate, everyone taking so much time to help me with this issue. Regardless of the end solution thanks.

I am planning on a temp solution of snugging up 2 screw floor jacks under the 2 joists - which are also nailed to the deck joists. I think this should be adequate support until I can find the right solution for me, or until I can find someone that can implement neals solution.

While I now understand what is correct and ideal, the house has been there 20 years, with very little deflection on the sill plate above the window, so something is holding all that load.
 
If it's not a bedroom you could just close it down to a 14" window and put studs under the joists. As far as settling goes, you don't know when the deck was installed.
 
Sorry, nealtw, but it sounds like you might not understand the difference between concentrated loads and uniformly distributed loads. Making a few conservative assumptions and working the numbers backwards (equating the internal resisting moment to an applied external load-induced moment) for a 4 x 4 Doug fir header spanning 33", shows that such would be good for resisting a tad more than one-half ton of concentrated vertical force (1039 lb.), or a uniform load of 756 lb./ft. If that isn't enough to resist the OP's applied loads, there's always the option of going with a shallow steel member. An A36 I-beam (S 4 x 9.5) would be almost 8 times stronger in bending. But going that route would enable welding the unsupported lintel to the bottom flange edge, if a welder qualified for overhead would be brought into the picture. Or skip the welding and just go with a wider, wide-flange steel member supporting both the existing sill and steel angle lintel.

And TJ, your understanding of steel lintels is right on the money.
 
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Bridgeman: to my surprize I did find that douglas fir 4x4 is a min. header in the UBC code But it applies to a single story house with no point loads. As this is a basement and it has half a window above which is a pointload , your 4x4 is not good enough. I learned along time ago that it dosn't matter if the numbers work, it is a matter of code or what some engineer wants to put his name to.
 
I am open to removing it all together. Could I just pull the window and and frame it in with dimension lumber? Maybe all treated 2x8? Since the block is 8" this is the biggest I could fit at least as framing, them header could be bigger if needed.

The deck was installed when the house was built.

I think I may see where some of the load it going. The deck joists and the floor joists are nailed together. The floor joists are sitting on the sill and the deck joists are also sitting on the steel angle (about 3.75" x 3.5") above the window that holds the brick.

Could this be why the sill has not deflected too much?
 
That would be the quick fix. the steel lentil dosn't appear to extend past the window frame. So I would remove the sash and leave the frame there and frame it in. Treated lumber in this area may not be a bad idea as the deck joists could bring water into this area. 2x8s are only 7 1/4" so it may easier to build with 2x4s twice. No header neaded, just put studs under the joists and two studs under the edge of the window above and two 2x4 blocks in the floor space for the window above.
 
Just to clarify remove window and in its place add 4 vertical members: one under each joist and 4 under the edge of the above window? I wasn't sure what you meant by "two 2x4 blocks in the floor space for the window above."
 
2 below the edge of the window and at least one peice above that between the top of the wall and the floor sheeting.
 
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