Cracked cinder block wall, low temp repairs

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Corvy

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I'm in the process of purchasing a home in Michigan where the temp is already hovering around the low 30s to mid teens most of the time. To approve the loan, the bank wants us to repair some cracks in the cinder block wall on the exterior of the basement. It looks like mortar came out and someone attempted to fill with caulk but the crack enlarged and the caulk is peeling away. I picked up a high-end mortar fix comound that was recommended by a local home repair shop but the instructions say the temp needs to be in the 40s or higher. Is there a compound that will work in colder temps or do I need to set up a heater near the area of the repairs to make this work?
 
well it's cold now everywhere sadly. wondered if you made any progress with this. let us know. i would recommend the heater personally. most products are designed specifically, so adding stuff could compromise the compound.
 
guess you're talking about exterior work - usually the lenders'll hold back a reserve amt if it can't be done 'cause of weather,,, just a thought - invisible' wall pins ' for interior,,, we've used ' anti-hydro ' successfully but think you should wait til it warms up unless you're experienced.

IF ' local home repair shop ' = an apron store, get a 2nd opinion :clap:
 
Before you buy find out the cause of the cracks. This will lead you to a proper repair. you have mortar lost and cracks, there may be cracks on the other side of the wall.

In addition to protecting you, it will protect the bank. If you have a home inspection, the inspector will red flag the problem and suggest that a professional should be consulted. Mose home inspectors are generalists and not many are also structural engineers.
 
I know they make chemical accelerator for curing concrete in cold weather, not sure if they have the same thing for mortar but you can check. Not a recommended practice though since the strength of the cured concrete is lower.
 
there are accellerators for all types of concrete/cement products.

The critical thing is not the air temperature, but the temperature of the existing materials (concrete, block etc.) and not the air temperatures, which are typically higher than the concrete temperatures, while the reverse is true in the fall.

Dick
 
dick, did you ever use ' anti-hydro ? ',,, we would add a bit IF temps were a bit low even if the job was tent'd !

what happen'd to the muskie ? ? ?
 

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