Glasstop range burner problem

We have a Kitchen-aid glass top electric cooking range. The front right burner has stopped working, the other three burners seem to work fine. What do you guys think is the problem.

Is it the heating element? Is there a fuse or something for each burner. How difficult is it to replace the heating element? Where can I buy the element?

With a really bright light you can see through the glass to see it the if the element is burned into.
Plug you model number in at this site to see your parts and diagrams for most models.Appliance Parts From PartSelect | Repair Parts For Major Appliances

Or google appliance parts for more to compare prices.

I've replaced mine twice and it's not hard. May be instructions with parts.

It can be the burner and you may be able to check it like woodchuck said but the switches go bad a lot more often on glass tops. To check the burner first disconnect power then remove the back of the range to access the back of the switch. Once off, look at the back of the switch to the burner that’s not working. You should see two wires marked H1 and H2 remove them. Then using an ohmmeter see if you have continuity between the two wires that you just removed. If you do the burner is ok, replace the switch.

Either Woodchuck or applianceman, maybe you could help me w/ this... I took the advise of using the ohmmeter and checking the continuity, thus found it was the burner to be replaced. I just ordered a new one. Pulled the burned one and saw the burned spot. Only problem I have is to ensure I re-connect the wires on the on the switchbox. I disconnected three of the wires including a red one now w/ re-connecting I forgot which go to which port. The particular switchbox for this burner is different than the other 3 which are accurate to the wiring diagram on the manual that came w/ the stove. H1 and H2 don't exist and the two ports which I need to re-connect correctly are not in the position as shown on the diagram either. The red wire labeled RFP2 and second brown wire labeled RF2, (these go to the right front burner), are labeled as R2 and BR10 on the manual diagram and go to the L2 and H2 positions. The actual positions on the switchbox that they must go onto are the P1 or 2 plugs. I'm guessing the red wire, (RFP1), connect onto the P1 plug and the Brown wire, (RF2), connect onto the 2 plug. Does that sound correct?
Thanks for any assistance you can give. The Kenmore range was purchased through Sears, but once the warranty expires, they offer no advise and answer no questions.
Rick

Post a link to the spec's for the new element you ordered.

Hi,

Didn't take a picture before you pulled off the wires?
Wire diagram missing from the range?

Range, make, model#?
Part# you ordered?

jeff.

This is a relatively easy fix. If you are lucky, you can remove the element then simply reposition the connectors from the old to the new. If not, you may have to cut the wires to the burner and wire nut the new unit. This needs to be done with ceramic wire nuts. However, the actual replacement process is easy ... just lift the top, remove the bad unit, replace the unit, reattach the top.

Here is a video I found that can show you how ...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ojA20H6KeA[/ame]

There's not that many combinations of a two or three terminal element hooked to a two or three terminal switch, but some combos may short the switch and so it's ruined. I'd recommend fusing your first attempt but sizing these fuses can be a problem.
And with 'infinite controls' you need more than a voltmeter to tell you the whole story.

Jeff 1, Nope. I thought it was an easy thing to remember, but took this picture after just in case. The red wire on the right hand side and the brown top center are the ones in question of possibly not being in the right spot.
It is a Kenmore P/N 316218510 (0303), or 790.92683300? The manual that came w/ it isn't clear which sets of numbers is the part number for list of parts or model number.

If you measure a non-zero and non-infinite resistance between two terminals with the control knob fully on, it is probably the equivalent of L2 & H2 on this diagram.
http://www.google.com/search?q="inf...2FElectricRanges%2FElectricRange.html;900;600
This resistance heats the bimetallic strip. It might read around .02 ohms.

With a dozen or so ohmmeter measurements the switch shown can be completely characterized.

I recommend you do these measurements with your new switch with the control fully on and off.

Hopfauf said:

Jeff 1, Nope. I thought it was an easy thing to remember, but took this picture after just in case. The red wire on the right hand side and the brown top center are the ones in question of possibly not being in the right spot.
It is a Kenmore P/N 316218510 (0303), or 790.92683300? The manual that came w/ it isn't clear which sets of numbers is the part number for list of parts or model number.

Click to expand...

It is a Kenmore P/N 316218510

Click to expand...

That is the part# for the service sheet.

790.92683300

Click to expand...

That is the model#.
Can you post a copy of that wire diagram or email us a copy?

but took this picture after just in case

Click to expand...

You changed the switch or element? If element, which one?

jeff.

So, the glasstop cook ranges have problems? How do they hold up and how difficult are they to repair in comparison to regular electric ranges? (I'm asking because I need a new stove and electric is the only option).

Hopfauf, I know this may be too little too late, but I found that if you are a bit persistent when asking at Sears they will sometimes help you even if the product is out of warranty. You might just have to catch the right employee though. In my case, I had something that had been out of warranty for years but I managed to talk them in to giving me the number for someone who would come out and fix it for a fee. It was a reasonable fee though-- and far less expensive than buying a replacement.

BTW, you can use almost any meter to measure very low resistances if you use this method
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-terminal_sensing

The current source in the diagram can be 120vac in series with the closed switch contacts in series with a 5A or 10A electric room heater.
The only restriction is that the voltmeter prods don't touch the clip leads that supply the current. They only touch the switch connector terminal blades.

So for 10A and a voltage reading of 0.10 vac (start on the 120vac range, just in case) the contact resistance must be R = V/I = 0.1/10 = 0.01 ohm. Contacts without a series resistance may read 10x lower than this.

Since in this case you are only comparing contact resistances between sets of contacts, the actual current used is not that important.