Near flat roof leaking should I shingle over?

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Donny

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My roof isn't very old (about4years) The roof was done by a "roofer" shortly after it was finished I had a nasty leak upon inspection I discovered no felt!(I asked for complete tear off and new felt durring the bid)I fixed that and had no problems untill Hurricane Rita. To my surprise I was not missing a single shingle and it looked to have only had minor leaks. Now I have random leaks durring long storms (as in days/weeks) I am sure alot of this has to do with the 1 1/2 inch to 12 inch pitch. I was going to do a tearoff myself and go with new 30pound felt and 3tab shingles. Lattly I have been thinking about leaving the roof and just putting another layer on,this would be alot faster and seems like it would be more protection. I was told that areas that have alot of snow that a double layer roof is common because the snow doesn't drain. That seems like the problem I have(can't drain fast enough).
 
If the top layer leaks through to a second layer, it will take much longer for it to dryout. It will seem like a good idea until you have to trace your first leak.
At 1 1/2 inch per ft. pitch, you need to consider sealing every joint. up the sides and across every shingle. Shingles are not designed to work in this application. There is no warranty protection. If it's not going to be seen, you may want to consider a roll type rubber sheet roof. They aren't too hard to apply and they are only a little more expensive than shingle tear off and replacement. It's time to make some calls in your area to some roofing companies and find out what works in your area.
 
Thanks for the reply. I checked on some roll roofing and it isn't ment for that low of a pitch either. A tourch down will work however my neighbors house had a torch down and Rita rolled it off so I don't want one of those. As far as hiring a roofer it's real risky it seems everyone turned into a roofing contracter overnight.
 
Hello Donny:
Your biggest problem is capillary action under the shingles. Square Eye's roll roofing is a good bet (He's speaking of a single sheet roll with seamless or cemented seams) such as Hypalon or many other brands. If you are scared of the roll roofing, I would recommend metal roofing. Just make sure the metal is not in contact with any asphaltic products, which causes rust through from the back. Many people use 2" X 4"s Layed flat across the roof on 24" centers to space it up from the asphalt. The space also encourages good ventilation. Metal starts blowing off wherever the wind can get under the edge so, make sure you fasten ends and sides tightly and cover them in a way that eleminates entry of strong winds.
Glenn
 
Up here code says anything under a 3 1/2-12 pitch cannot take shingles! We use torch down rubber roofing.
And any roof thats interior is heated has to have this thin rubber membrane called "Ice And water shield" comes in 36" X 67' rolls , And if there is a long eave or cornice to the building walls you do two rows Ice and water about 72" up the eave.
And if there worth there salt as a Trades man and there reputation, they will use this product in the valleys and from the eave right up to the ridge on a low pitched roof. Especially with 3 tab.
Remember if the contractor tells you " I think we should do ice and water on the whole roof cause the low pitch, It's gonna cost him a little more per square, and that cost will be added in the bid. But it's worth it in the long run.

As far as anyone installing shingle on a 1 1/2- 12 HE IS A UNEXPERANCED NUT CASE. And should be reported to the Better Business bureau.
 
I understand that singles are not the right roof for my needs. But will putting another layer of shingles on buy me some time? If it would then I can just shingle half of the roof (aprox 700ft)and in 2-3years have a pro replace the roof with a roll roofing? I have the money to buy the shingles but I will need to go further in debt to get roll roofing. It took along time to save up the money I have but if it's a complete waste of money and time to shingle it then I will go into debt and have it done.
 
A roof coating may buy you just as much time for much less cash.
I'm not sure if White Kool Seal will work over shingles, but if you look, there will be something out there that will work. Even if you had to recoat once in a while, it would still be cheaper, a better sealed roof, and would only take a couple of hours to go get it and put it on. Apply it heavy with a long handle and a paint roller. Do not step on a roof coating before it has a few days to dry!! The top surface of the coating may seem dry until you step on it and it breaks loose. It takes a few days for most roof coatings to adhere and "set".
 
Sqaare Eye; I dont like to step on folks,But A roof coating really aint the way to go on a flat with shingles. A quick fix can bring on Meany problems down the road.
First an inspector will not go for it, second it will set back the value of your house, when it is inspected.
And 3rd the weight and leaking (it will leak with the season changes) will give you a bigger problem in the long run, than it'll cost to tear off and toruch down now!!!
 
I can tell you that White Kool-Seal works over shingles. I'm not sure I would try another layer of shingles though because more weight = more dips and hills which will likely mean more leaks.
 
I decided to bring up this old thread. I have been putting off the roof forever and just doing patches. I have been looking into metal roofing as in r panel. I never really liked metal roofing but I'd rather have it then a torch down. I haven't been able to find a decent how to book on metal roofing. Heres a few pics of my roof.
roof.jpg

roof2.jpg
 
Always loved the sound of rain on a tin roof. Most restful sound in the universe.

Interesting change in pitch near the top. Could be a real challenge. Especially in metal.
 
BUMP!

Jumpin the thread up to see if you used metal and if so could you post some pics...... The transition at the peak should look really good in metal...(IF it is done right.)

Thanks

MTC
 
Not yet I am waiting on a few estimates. I did get one from a roofer today about a rubber roof $3500 to do the front half. He did say metal would be a good option. I'll be sure to post pics whenever I do the roof. At that price I can't afford to hire a pro.
 
yeah, shingles for 3.5/12 or less is just trouble, won't matter if your quadruple the felt with #30. Besides shingles flying around. I see it EVERYDAY on inspections.

Tear off the old, replace any damaged sheathing, rafters, fascia or joists and apply torchdown or hotmop with light colored gravel. You can get different size gravel applied to give the roof some decorative texture. With a low pitch like you have, most all extruded concrete/metal roofing shingles aren't rated for.

Its common for shingles to flap around in a heavy storm and then lay back flat, in the mean time there will be damage to them at the nails that effect the water integrity of the roofing but appears "ok" and you get a variety of leaks from then on.
 
Your main enemy is the wind not so much drainage,the drainage is sort of like the icing on the cake not only is the wind driven rain blowing under but all the water on the slow flowing roof just gets blown backward,then once its found a way through it is like a siphon . . . . .Shingles are a wasteof time and money,you could have 10 layers and it will still leak,then you'll pay someone to have to remove all the layers,then install a flat torchdown. NEVER instally anything over another shingle!! Why not? It is simple. Condensation and delamination,the more layers the more overall water . . . Strip it to the wood,repair any bad stuff,install your drip edge ,install your flat deck protection ,flashings and what have you then torch it down,I like to run the end up a wall @ least 8" with some type of. Flashing covering over the end or roll the ends over to close the deck . . . . Good luck buddy
 
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