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oldberkeley

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I'm replacing all the appliances, the cabinets, other stuff in a small 1950's-era kitchen. The basement ceiling is rather "crowded" with cables, plumbing, etc., so I'm trying--when safe--to re-use some of the cable runs from the updated panel to the kitchen.

The existing cooktop has a 10-3 NM w/ground cable running to a 30A two-pole breaker in the panel. I'm going to remove the cooktop and put a dishwasher in that general area.

My question: can I use the existing cable run as a dedicated circuit, cap off the red wire, and run it to a single pole 20A breaker?

TIA.
 
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Yes you can but #10 wire is difficult to work with in receptacle boxes.
 
If the dishwasher is hard wired it will be difficult to wire, since the housing is fairly tight, but do able. If it seems too difficult I would put a junction box in the basement (as a last resort), cap off the red wire, and run a 12/2 w/ ground and wire nut it to the existing 10 wire. If you do that just make sure you label the cover of the junction box: DEDICATED DISHWASHER Circuit # (..), so hopefully others that come along in the future know not to tap off of that.
 
JoeD & Kabris:

Much obliged for your prompt and informative answers. A couple of follow-up questions if I may:

1. The #10 looks like a bear, but I'm in no rush and I'm usually very careful. Does this sound correct for the breaker box work:

Turn off the main breaker.
Remove the 30A two-pole breaker.
Disconnect the red and black wires from the breaker.
Snip the red wire an inch or two inside the box and wire nut it off.
Connect the black wire to a new 20A breaker.
Install the new breaker.
Leave the neutral and ground wires as they are?????

2. In the kitchen itself, I'm going to put a proper appliance cord and plug on the dishwasher. Then install a receptacle in the sink cabinet adjacent to the dishwasher: metal box, 20A single outlet. Again, keeping in mind that #10 will be challenging to work with, do you think a standard-size outlet box will be sufficient? (Just the three wires coming in, no feeds off of it.)

TIA.
 
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That all sounds right. Leave neutral and ground as is. For the outlet box it will be easier using a metal 1900 box with a raised cover for more space.
 
Excellent. Just Googled a 1900 box, I agree with you, will get one.

At the risk of pestering you too much ;) I'm going to ask another question!

I'm still puzzling a bit about the proper way to run the #10 cable into the adjacent under sink cabinet and securing the box. I've seen various pictures using conduit, etc. Here's what I'd like to do, I'd appreciate your opinion and a better suggestion if needed:

Run the cable behind the drywall.
Cut a small hole in the drywall and the back of the cabinet box.
Pull the cable through.
Use a knockout on the back of the receptacle and a button push-in connector to run the cable in.
Wire the outlet.
Attach the box securely to the back of the cabinet.

Again, TIA.
 
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Everything sounds good except you might need to mount the box before you wire the outlet. Also when using a 1900 with a raised cover, in order to secure the receptacle to the cover you will need to snap off the four tabs at each corner of the receptacle frame. If you hold the receptacle up to the cover you'll understand what I'm talking about. Much easier to remove those before you wire it up.
 
OK, got ya, sounds good.

I got a little out of order with my to-do list, of course will first mount the box.:)

My biggest worry was just the idea of running the cable through the drywall & cabinet back directly into the back of the receptacle, didn't know if that was OK.

Thanks much!
 

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