Asbestos siding and step flashing

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Warren1

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Hello all
My questions here are caused by a roof leak over a newly redone kitchen. It was a bedroom, redid entire first floor. Moved bath, dining, kitchen, stairs. Kitchen is all new (well was new, now clg gyp is wet).
Also already did 90% of roof. Leak seems to be coming from the 3 feet of main roof by the second floor dormer. (Oversized cape fully dormered second floor with cheek walls set back 2 feet with a 1 foot roof overhang)
Went outside and old roof shingles are falling apart.
Wall has asbestos siding.
Finally the question,
Any advice on step flashing?
I plan on singling the 3 foot section but am concerned with damaging the siding and needing to deal with replacing it now.
Plan on replacing but not for a while. That's part of the second floor master bedroom pouch Reno.
Thanks.
 
Replacing step flashing can be difficult, especially if the flashing was nailed into the dormer side wall without destroying the siding. IF, you plan on replacing the roof and siding in the near future, I'd suggest caulking the area instead of opening another can of worms. Silicone is not a good exterior caulk. And any caulk is not a long term solution to your problem. Post a pic if the area if you can.
 
2 pics of the roof

warren01.jpg

warren02.jpg
 
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I found the shingle at the very bottom to be almost gone, so I added a few courses up and tucked the last one about 1/4 inch under an old one. This seems to have helped. Have not had a major leak since (major being a continuous drip.) But do still have a leak. But clg still gets damp, but no real drip.
Now the history.
 
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We are in our 10th year of our DYI 5 year remodel plan. Added 2 kids to the mix which slowed things down.
The small roof to the right is coming off to make a porch off the master bedroom. This will require residing that wall. Was planning on residing it all then. So hoping to fix this with doing as little as possible and limit any redoing of stuff with the rest of the remodel.
 
Warren1 said:
I found the shingle at the very bottom to be almost gone, so I added a few courses up and tucked the last one about 1/4 inch under an old one. This seems to have helped. Have not had a major leak since (major being a continuous drip.) But do still have a leak. Got cl still gets damp, but no real drip.
Now the history.
Click to expand...

Just a tid bit to add to your thoughts.

Some insurance companies are using that siding as an excuse for not insuring older homes. So if you have to work with the siding it might be best to replace it.
 
I think the leak inside can be coming from anyplace along the 3 foot wide roof, or any point along the step flashing. In the 2x6 rafter bay I installed (snug) 2 layers of 2 inch and 1 layer of 1 inch high R rigid insul. Getting a 30 R value with a 1 inch vent space above. Also foil taped over the rafters to complete the vapor barrier. So any water getting thru that roof at any point will run down the rigid and dump out over the rear wall.
 
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I'm in Massachusetts, and yes, we were denied insurance because of the siding, but also listed no fire hydrants for a reason. Live in an area with no town water, well water only.
 
So we are on a state plan for uninsurable houses.
Maybe after the siding is replaced, we can get regular less expensive insurance.
 
oldognewtrick said:
Replacing step flashing can be difficult, especially if the flashing was nailed into the dormer side wall without destroying the siding. IF, you plan on replacing the roof and siding in the near future, I'd suggest caulking the area instead of opening another can of worms. Silicone is not a good exterior caulk. And any caulk is not a long term solution to your problem. Post a pic if the area if you can.
Click to expand...

Oldog

Would this be a good situation if not wanting to disturb the asbestos siding and if the OP has no plans of replacing it soon to just go ahead and step flash outside the asbestos siding and then go up a few more inches and cover it all with a counter flashing that is sealed to the siding with the right kind of caulking. The finished look that way would be clean and a good heavy caulking job would all be hidden.

I would hit the joints in the siding good and heavy under the counter flashing.
 
I don't think you would ever bond the counter flashing to the asbestos to be effective. You would need a mechanical bond not just a chemical. Drilling into the siding would most likely crack it. The siding will be chalky and trying to bond to it would be like painting over sawdust. I still think just caulking the siding to the roof with wet and dry roof cement would be the best short term solution. It won't look pretty, but it should be a good short term solution until a proper fix can be made.
 
Just saw these, thanks.
Looking to take care of it tomorrow.
Thoughts on just rolling tar all the way up. Over the shingles and step flashing?
Or maybe a new layer of shingles right up (about 50 sf) and then tar to step flashing?
All just to rip it off next year or so when I do the rest of the project.

Thanks for all the options.
 
The shingles are shot. This I know. Step flashing condition is the unknown.
And to give you an idea of my abilities, I have changed car engines, framed walls, made new door and window openings, removed and filled door and window openings. Made new stair floor openings, made the new stairs and more.
Have also help my father do roofs, but I only did the field work. He did all edging and flashing.
Wish I did more.
Do miss the man.
 
Got on the roof. Stripped old shingles. Step flashing looked good (lead coated copper I think). So I laid new ice and water shield and shingles at 4"TTW along with the flashing. Now just waiting for a good storm and see if I still have a leak.
Thanks for the advice.

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