patio too high for walk out basement?

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airstream

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this foreclosed home has many issues... for my first post. what is the minimum distance from a concrete patio to the base of a sliding door/door wall as some are called. I know that the dirt must be removed from the siding and a retaining wall must be created. but i wonder if the entire concrete patio should be removed and replaced 4" lower than the lowest point of the concrete wall? please be kind as this is a first post.View attachment 3530
 

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You have it about right, if you do not have a cover over this area I would go for 6" below the siding and it should slope away 1/4" per foot.
 
That suggestion is spot on!

It will also require some grading and landscaping to avoid water and rot/mold.
 
the area that was once covered with dirt has been dug out and and left open.... the siding removed and replaced with 1/2" treated ply..... going to have remove a lot of dirt and concrete to do this right.... the current down spouts were fed into a 4" vented drain tile..... i put 3" non-vented inside to reduce the amount of water being routed to my basement walls. i think with the removal of the current patio that will all have to be redone. it may be easiest to build retaining walls all the way around. lower the patio the 6" and place a drain in the center and connect that to the drain tiles for the down spouts.... down the hilll behind the house.
 
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Sound like a plan, I would try to drain the patio with it's own pipe down the hill keeping the water away from the foundation is always the best idea.
 
got it and will do.... will be fun learning how to make concrete forms. how deep and how wide should the footing be for the retaining walls?

planning on 8" wide for the retaining walls and 6" higher than the final grade of landscaping.

is there a idea or plan for making mowing around this easier?
 
The fun part is the bottom of the footing should be deeper than what might freeze which will be standard for your area, check with building dept. or lumber yard
The size of the footing will depend on how deep it, how much weight is going to be behind the wall and whether you have drainage behind it. You should have it designed be someone that knows. If you pull a permit, they will give you minnimum requiements.
 
You can use segmental retaining wall block(SRWs) that do not have to be below frost and should never be placed on a concrete footing. They have shear lugs cast in the block for stability and the tops can be stepped down as needed. - Of course, the first course should be placed on a compacted gravel base.

There are numerous different styles available and best and most common are Allan Block, Anchor Wall Sytems, Keystone and Versalok and all have good web sites with design and construction details and methods. This type of block, if engineered can be built up to 40' high without a concrete footing, but using geo-grid fabric for the taller walls.

Dick
 
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Segmental walls would be better (and easier) than building a wall on a concrete footing below frost line. And a lot faster. Save your concrete form-building (and placement and finishing) efforts for the patio. And don't forget to slope the surface (and forms) at least 3/16" per foot, away from the house (meaning a 10'-wide patio will have a total drop of close to 2").
 
For future referance never use pressure treated plywood for sheathing.
It's now treated with copper and will rust out anything but ACQ approved fasterners in about a years. Reguler roofing nails are not ACQ approved.
With yours I think I would have removed the siding and cut that sheathing back up higher on the wall. At least I would have removed 2, rows of siding Installed 3/4 X 6 vinyl lumber, Z molding. a strip of J molding then reinstalled one row of siding.
This would keep the bottom of the sheathing from being exposted to wicking but still covered up some of the concrete wall.
 
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