Draining Hot Water Heater - Nothing comes out!

Thanks y'all! It's finally draining. I ended up having to take off the bonnet nut and unscrewing the stem completely. I was then able to stick a metal wire hanger in there. Water and clear/crystal like things started shooting out at me finally so I put the stem in again 1 turn and it's draining nicely now. Small leak at the stem because I have it very lose, but that's what my bucket/dust pan contraption is for.

Also bought the items recommended earlier to replace that drain valve.

Guess once it stops draining I'll flush it a couple more times with cold water and repeat the process.

Thank y'all so much!

Here's what I am going to put on it after it's all said and done.

KULTULZ said:

Let me ask you a question... (I come in peace)

Depending on the sediment/hardness of the water and without proper filtration, the sediment will build to such a level as to possibly interfere with the bottom burner (a gas WH is completely negated once sediment is allowed to build up) and each time the dip tube introduces water, the sediment is stirred causing it to be drawn into the hot water distribution system possibly fouling pipes and fixtures.

Same thing with periodic testing of a TPRV, if it is fouled you won't know until you can inspect it while resting in the back yard or the neighbor's back yard.

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If your water has that much sediment or minerals you should have some filtration ahead of the tank. Who wants to drink or bathe in sediment. The minerals that build up in there are hard enough to clog his valve they will be hardened likewise all over inside the tank. If you go in there and violently back flush the tank to break all the stuff up if you even can what doesn’t come out is now going to flow thru your pipes and plug things up. If your tank is new and you plan on stretching its life out by flushing every 6 months I would say go for it. Some people even do a back flush with vinegar. The house we bought had about a 5 year old tank that I was going to replace when I redid the plumbing but I gave it a try and it worked and had no leaks so I hooked it back up. No way would I flush that tank and loosen up what is stuck to the sides.

The safety pressure valve is high up on the tank and designed to blow under the extreme pressure of an over heat, much different than the pressure of the tank draining. Removing the valve at the bottom is maybe easy on a new tank but when all locked in with the same stuff that’s built up in the valve it could also snap off. Taking the valve apart and using tools to knock the buildup off you have to be careful to not mess up the seat or you will get a dripper.

My whole thoughts are you really don’t get enough out to make a difference unless it’s a sludge or mud in the tank that’s in the water and that should be filtered out. Everyone I ever carried out of a basement was 3 times as heavy as the one I carried down.

Those are just my thoughts after the odds with tanks. Seems like most disagree.

You can't really filter out dissolved calcium with any kind of whole house or inline faucet filter. I think you would have to get into a professional quality softener setup with whatever extra filtration system they have for that. As Bud said, you could drain frequently, or settle for changing the heater every few years.

Now with everything stirred up, you should limit water use for a few hours to let the sediment settle back down. Then, you should remove the strainers from any faucets that have them and flush water through them.

bud16415 said:

My whole thoughts are you really don’t get enough out to make a difference unless it’s a sludge or mud in the tank that’s in the water and that should be filtered out. Everyone I ever carried out of a basement was 3 times as heavy as the one I carried down.

Those are just my thoughts after the odds with tanks. Seems like most disagree.

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While it is generally accepted, in theory and practice, that there is little gain from attempting to drain or remove the accumulations from the base of residential water heating appliances, of a capacity under 100gal., would it not be first beneficial to determine the setting of the temp. of the heating elements, the size of the family as well as the temperature of the water used and the distance from the appliance of the most remote faucet.

Mineral deposits are a direct result of the heat of the media they are transported in, water.

In practice, are adjustments going to be beneficial in extending the longevity of the appliance? Only the OP can be the judge of that.

I’m surprised no one mentioned changing the anode rod as well.

Well I got it all back together. I flushed it out with drain valve removed and opening/closing the water inlet valve a couple of times (ok, more like 10 times) until nothing but nice clear water came out. Put the new thermal coupling with a nice ball valve on it, no leaks. Water is full again and it's been about an hour, and nice hot water is coming out of all faucets

Thank you guys again for all your suggestions!!!

good job.

bud16415 said:

I’m surprised no one mentioned changing the anode rod as well.

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Do you suppose someone should suggest to the OP to check for grit in the hot water?

thatguy188 said:

Well I got it all back together. I flushed it out with drain valve removed and opening/closing the water inlet valve a couple of times (ok, more like 10 times) until nothing but nice clear water came out. Put the new thermal coupling with a nice ball valve on it, no leaks. Water is full again and it's been about an hour, and nice hot water is coming out of all faucets

Thank you guys again for all your suggestions!!!

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And the price was right.

Snoonyb said:

Do you suppose someone should suggest to the OP to check for grit in the hot water?

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Yes, I suppose someone should. And did.

thatguy188 said:

Here's what I am going to put on it after it's all said and done.

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...sigh... Why do I always feel like the bad guy here...

The nipples you purchased are heat trap nipples. They are for another usage (or thrown into the back yard). Take the one not used and see if there is a flap in there. It is directional flow and would interfere with your next service drain.

You need a PEX lined galvanized nipple.

Gentlemen,

The reason I showed the TPRV is the amount of corrosion (whether galvanic and/or acidic water - Ph) that can result from not servicing and a possible failure.

Yes, all water (IMO) whether municipal or well, should have at the least a sediment filter. You cannot trust either water source and they are subject to composition change on a daily basis.

If you do not want to service the WH on a regular basis and have the money for frequent replacements, there are hot outlet sediment filters available to slow the fouling of pipes and fixtures. And no, you cannot filter calcium (or magnesium), the water has to be treated.

H2O2 and UV treatment will make the system much more human friendly.

KULTULZ said:

...sigh... Why do I always feel like the bad guy here...

The nipples you purchased are heat trap nipples. They are for another usage (or thrown into the back yard). Take the one not used and see if there is a flap in there. It is directional flow and would interfere with your next service drain.

You need a PEX lined galvanized nipple.

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Hmmmm, yeah there is a flap in there. Opens easily either way though. Thought that's what was posted/you have posted here?

thatguy188 said:

Hmmmm, yeah there is a flap in there. Opens easily either way though. Thought that's what was posted/you have posted here?

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Dielectric nipples have been around, in different forms, for a number of years and are for the purpose of mitigating the corrosive reaction between dissimilar metals, PEX lined is the latest intonation.

I prefer 6" brass, but that's just me.

thatguy188 said:

Hmmmm, yeah there is a flap in there. Opens easily either way though.

Thought that's what was posted/you have posted here?

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Those are heat trap nipples and are meant for install at the cold water entry (supply) and hot water exit points on the water heater. The flapper may interfere with drainage next time around.

You simply need a PEX lined galvanized nipple or as mentioned a brass nipple to prevent any possible galvanic action (corrosion) between different metals.

It is an easy mistake to make, especially if this is your first rodeo. No biggie.

Below is the ill I posted previously-