broken roof truss?

It's certainly your call regarding if you think it's not worth the potential hassle. Based on what I'm seeing, I'd probably buy the place and correct the roof overhang slope issues for less than $1000 or so in materials, then do a major remodel for another $80,000 +/- as my budget and time allowed. When all is said and done, it would be a property worth close to $300,000--certainly not a bad investment.

One other issue of possible concern to me would be the existing slope of the property towards the house (from the side where the front door is located). It looks like a lot of runoff from heavy rains could be directed against the foundation. If there's plenty of natural flow towards the street, then this isn't an issue. But if there's no place for that water to go, it has the potential to cause problems.

So you dont think the green beam is part of the major structure but more decoration and helping hold up the porch roof?
They are also on the back side of the house. If that is the case, I could slowly jack it up and put a better footing under it and repair the crack in the wall. But,.. what would cause the ceiling to bow above the walls in that area of the house,. under the flat roof? The floor at the bottom of the wall is flat and level with no sign of any sinking.

The wall inside with the crack showing beside the door is a bearing wall and should have a header over the door. For whatever reason they ran the beam long to include the header. As the outside end has gone down the corner of the house is holding all the waite and the beam is teetering up over the door. I wouldn't expect this to be a problem to jack up the beam a little at a time over a few days it would be back in place. I would jump at this house, but I wouldn't change the flat roofs, that would add cost you would never get back. I agree with Bridgeman, the shape of the yard may be a problem.

The more I look at your situation and pix, I'm inclined to think the total "green beam" problem and associated wall/ceiling gap inside the house are related, and not a major issue. Looking at the photo (with your wife/GF in it), the right end of the beam has settled vertically, having gone down several inches or more. Probably caused by a missing or insufficient footing under the column--super easy to fix. The left end of the beam, being anchored to the exterior wall of the house, has rotated away from the house and is pulling the wall with it, as the right end deflects vertically. That's why there's a gap at the ceiling. If you check the wall for plumb at that location, my money says the wall will be tilted outward at the top. Another relatively easy fix--simple geometry says that when the column is raised as part of installing a proper footing under it, the beam will rotate back to level, where it began life, and the interior ceiling gap should close up. You can deal with closing up what little gap may remain by taping/mudding/texturing the corner joint, at the same time you get rid of the popcorn ceiling in that room.

That just leaves the side yard drainage (potential) issue. Not insurmountable, but something to look into to see if there could be future flooding problems in the house. If it were me, I'd check the inside of the exterior walls along that side of the house, just above the floor moldings, with a moisture meter. Any readings substantially higher than 14% or 15% indicate that water has gotten above the slab, and could be causing mold issues inside the walls. Not a total red flag, but definitely approaching a point where you just might consider walking away from the place. If you paid for a home inspection, a good inspector using thermal imaging should have caught any moisture/mold-in-the-wall problems.

From the amount of slope of the "green beam" shown in the "photo (with your wife/GF in it)", if that was a structural beam the other end would be several feet higher, unless it had actually broken. If it had broken, I think you'd see a lot more damage than those minot cracks. However, if it had broken it would be right about where you drew the line showing the hump in roof in post 16.

But that hump is also right where the end of a short non structural beam would end, if outer end sunk, inner end would lift up right there causing the hump. I do NOT think beam broke. But I do think you oughta stick your head up there and take a look.

They haven't built houses using beams that long and large as structural parts for many years. Except in higher end homes. Nowadays exposed beam ends are the tacked on corbells like I have. Another style house in my neighbor hood has flatter non gabled roofs with two exposed beams supporting car port roof. Similar to what you have, the inner beam ends rest on exterior load bearing wall. As neal and bridge and I and I dunno who all has suggested.

I agree the cost of leveling the beam is gonna be no more than a grand, if that much. And I agree that you should jack it up gradually, I dunno if it would take a few days, but jack a few inches at a time, listen for pops, cracks, other noises, go inside take a look at whats happening to wall, ceiling, cracks , humps etc, B4 jacking more.

I hadn't paid much attention to that slope, that may explain why gutter drains at wrong end. But not the wacky C, mebee they had a couple of elbows left over and decided to use them just because they were there. A twisted interpretation of "waste not want not." Could be water running down the slope is what caused footing to sink. Fixing drainage is another less than a grand repair. A trench, a surface drain or two, hard solid drain pipe to a place lower than house. Do not use the cheap corrugated pipe, or perferated "french drain" pipe.

Mebbee if they'd just used some bacon when preparing the "green beams" they would be more robust. When I first read "Looking at the photo (with your wife/GF in it)" i was thrown for a loop as loopy as the drain pipe. You rarely see a photo with both wife and GF in it.