Building a garage

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While trusses are great for strength and construction speed you lose a lot in storage space because of the webbing of the truss. I think if I was interested in getting the most storage space, I'd go stick built with ceiling joists and rafters.
You won't need a crane and crew as with trusses.
 
beachguy005 said:
While trusses are great for strength and construction speed you lose a lot in storage space because of the webbing of the truss. I think if I was interested in getting the most storage space, I'd go stick built with ceiling joists and rafters.
You won't need a crane and crew as with trusses.
Click to expand...

16 ft wide, he won't get close to strength even with 2x10 floor joists and these trusses have a room built in.
 
Got it, I didn't catch that he was using room trusses. You could still get the span with manufactured lumber.
 
beachguy005 said:
Got it, I didn't catch that he was using room trusses. You could still get the span with manufactured lumber.
Click to expand...

I beams would have to be 12" with the problem of the angle cut on the end or set rafters on a finished floor. The city won't like the angle cut and they ask for an engineer report. and if he is using 12/12 pitch he will be fighting the height restrictions.
That's a problem even with the bonus trusses.
 
There are bonus room trusses and bonus room trusses.
How big do you expect the room to be?
I am used to doing them so they have living space inside so they are 12/12 pitch and often have hi heel cuts or wall extensions. So all that raises the height and with a height restriction takes away from the height of the garage.
The do make simpler trusses that are not made for insulation and lower pitch to provide a space for storage.
So you need to talk to the supplier and have them email you the spec sheet so you can better plan the build and post that spec sheet.
It will look something like this.

mitek-7-5-0-attic-truss-design-showing-lfl-chords.jpg
 
nealtw said:
There are bonus room trusses and bonus room trusses.
How big do you expect the room to be?
I am used to doing them so they have living space inside so they are 12/12 pitch and often have hi heel cuts or wall extensions. So all that raises the height and with a height restriction takes away from the height of the garage.
The do make simpler trusses that are not made for insulation and lower pitch to provide a space for storage.
So you need to talk to the supplier and have them email you the spec sheet so you can better plan the build and post that spec sheet.
It will look something like this.
Click to expand...

From what I have seen, I will have about 4 feet of usable height. I will easily fit my canoe and kayak in.

Thee purpose of the upper storage is simply for those long, bulky things to find a home. There will not be any ceiling sheathing or any insulation.

While I plan on working in it in the winter, the primary goal is for a safe secure storage space for my toys (motorcycle, atv, snow machine, outboard motor, etc.)

Eventually, I might put in a ceiling and insulate it, but that is not going to be done for at least a year after construction, if ever.

This is my "5 year" house. I plan to move within the next 5 years to something better.
 
The plan I posted is a 6/12 pitch so every 12 inches of ceiling it goes up 6" but that only goes to the center of the garage, so 8 x 6 would be 48" high in the center less the flat spot they put in the middle
11/12 would be 88" outside less the flat spot.
12/12 will not likely work because the heel cut, the straight up measurement just above the wall adds to the total height so that would lower your garage.

You can ask the city how they measure the height, out here we see a cheat all the time. They raise the foundation and fill some fill in on both side, help with the slope away from the building. But the city measure from the average height of the fill on both sides. so an extra 12 on each side allows you to add 12" in height and still gets past code.:p
 
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