3way switch to 4 lights and fan?

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biddlecom

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Hello, Im attempting to set up a 3way switch on one wall that controls 4 lights and then the other 3way switch on the other wall. That will be for the left side of the room. Then I plan on doing the same thing on the right side BUT need to somehow connect it to the fan which is not ran by a switch but with a remote control. Any help in wiring this would be great.

Also, I have full access as the walls are coming down and I will be working with studs.

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The fan needs it's own power source, usually done with a three wire. The extra wire (red) is just for the fan. The way you have ity drawn the three wire would go to the first light and then the fan.
 
Should the left and right part be on one circuit or should the left be on a circuit and the right be on a circuit?
 
biddlecom said:
Should the left and right part be on one circuit or should the left be on a circuit and the right be on a circuit?
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Correction to my post. You will be running three wire for the switches but you need another hot just for the fan if that makes sence.
 
With multiple lights between the switches you will need four wire cable. I would NOT do it that way. Just run the 3 wire cable between the switches and then connect the light string to one of the switches.
 
You have several issues so lets deal with them one at a time ....

1. The 3-way switches control two zones. No problem. Depending on how many devices you have on that one circuit, you could power all of them. I limit my circuits to 10 devices (although some codes allow up to 12).

2. The left zones looks fine to control those lights. If you follow standard 3-way wiring, you should be OK. (Pic #1

3. The right zones mirrors the left zones for the lighting portion and it is fine too.

4. The fan powering needs to come from the power feed into the room which is the hot side of your 3-way switch. Since you are controlling your fan mechanics off the clicker, you can pigtail power from the 3-way hot side and the fan will be "always hot" much like any receptacle. The clicker will cause power to flow into the fan. You have no need to provide a separate switch in the wall for the fan. Simply run a dedicated 14-2 with the black as hot, white as neutral, and the ground from the 3-way hot side up to the fan. Once wired, the fan will not interfere with the lights in that zone. (Pic #2)

3-way-swtich-light-between2.jpg

Fan wiring 1.jpg
 
2. The left zones looks fine to control those lights. If you follow standard 3-way wiring, you should be OK. (Pic #1

3. The right zones mirrors the left zones for the lighting portion and it is fine too.
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Both of those zones have two lights wired between the switches. That is by no means a standard 3 way setup. It requires four wire cable between the lights.
 
biddlecom said:
Hello, Im attempting to set up a 3way switch on one wall that controls 4 lights and then the other 3way switch on the other wall. That will be for the left side of the room. Then I plan on doing the same thing on the right side BUT need to somehow connect it to the fan which is not ran by a switch but with a remote control. Any help in wiring this would be great.

Also, I have full access as the walls are coming down and I will be working with studs.
Click to expand...

First of all, where is the hot pair, and do they exist in multiple locations?
 
okay this what i came up with. The diagram show 6 switches, 3 lights and a fan. The 3 bottom switches are dimmers: 2 - 3way are for lights and 1 - single pole is for a fan. The 3 top are normal switches: 2 - 3ways for lights and 1 single pole for outside light. I have two circuits because the left and right lights are both going have multiple along side the 1 I just didnt have enough room to put them.

So i need a 3way dimmer and a 3way to control the left side lights and I need a 3way dimmer and a 3way to control the right side lights. I also need the single pole fan dimmer to control the fan and the single pole on top to control the outside lights. I know the diagram is messy but it looks correct? Any help would be awesome. Thank you to everyone.

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biddlecom said:
okay this what i came up with. The diagram show 6 switches, 3 lights and a fan. The 3 bottom switches are dimmers: 2 - 3way are for lights and 1 - single pole is for a fan. The 3 top are normal switches: 2 - 3ways for lights and 1 single pole for outside light. I have two circuits because the left and right lights are both going have multiple along side the 1 I just didnt have enough room to put them.

So i need a 3way dimmer and a 3way to control the left side lights and I need a 3way dimmer and a 3way to control the right side lights. I also need the single pole fan dimmer to control the fan and the single pole on top to control the outside lights. I know the diagram is messy but it looks correct? Any help would be awesome. Thank you to everyone.
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I still have the same question;"First of all, where is the hot pair, and do they exist in multiple locations?"
 
Snoonyb said:
I still have the same question;"First of all, where is the hot pair, and do they exist in multiple locations?"
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See in diagram the breakers and lines showing the 1 pair to each side of the room.
Looks correct to me, but I have been fooled a few times.
 
nealtw said:
See in diagram the breakers and lines showing the 1 pair to each side of the room.
Looks correct to me, but I have been fooled a few times.
Click to expand...

Ok, I see the two circuits with 14/2 too each 3 gang box.

Since you said you had access to the ceiling, I would have used 1-20A breaker, 12/2 grnd. to the ceiling box, a 14/2 grnd. from the fan box too each of the light strings and the 3 gang box for the exterior light sw.

The 2-14/2 connecting the light strings end at the 2 gang box, run 2-14/3 grnd. over too the 3 gang box.

Use smart dimmers for the 3ways, that way you can dim from both sides.

Install the switch for the exterior lights.

Control the fan with a multi function remote.

Any question about circuit loading can be mitigated with florescent and or LED's.
 
I doubt there any chance of over loading at 15 amps and I would question 14 wire with 20 amp breaker, the 14 wire could become a fuse that might fail first
 
nealtw said:
I doubt there any chance of over loading at 15 amps and I would question 14 wire with 20 amp breaker, the 14 wire could become a fuse that might fail first
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Only if it were the only load feeding 40 to 50Amps.
 
Snoonyb said:
The KISS principle.
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Please remember that there are lots of people coming here for information and most never ask a question. Any hint of using less wire on a bigger breaker may be a desaster in some cases.
Using bigger breakers and bigger wire on a lighting circuit dosn't make any sence to me as soon enough LEDs will be the norm using less power.
For a home owner to go and buy so many feet of this and so many feet of that when one would do makes less sence, he will end up with more waist than savings.
 
Snoonyb said:
Ok, I see the two circuits with 14/2 too each 3 gang box.

Since you said you had access to the ceiling, I would have used 1-20A breaker, 12/2 grnd. to the ceiling box, a 14/2 grnd. from the fan box too each of the light strings and the 3 gang box for the exterior light sw.

The 2-14/2 connecting the light strings end at the 2 gang box, run 2-14/3 grnd. over too the 3 gang box.

Use smart dimmers for the 3ways, that way you can dim from both sides.

Install the switch for the exterior lights.

Control the fan with a multi function remote.

Any question about circuit loading can be mitigated with florescent and or LED's.
Click to expand...


I only need to dim from one side and am using Lutron LED Dimmers and why a remote for the fan? I have a Lutron Fan Control.
 
biddlecom said:
I only need to dim from one side and am using Lutron LED Dimmers and why a remote for the fan? I have a Lutron Fan Control.
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I am not there and have not seen a list of exactly what equipment you have in hand. however, my suggestion was in response to, "Any help would be awesome", and is the way I would proceed.

It is less equip,, central access and distribution and fewer steps for the occupant.

Being required to travel across a room to change a dimmer setting and then being required to preform a return trip to carry on with the intended function you needed lighting for when you accessed the space, is at the minimum, an inconvenience and for my customers, an insult to their intelligence, as is not being able to operate the ceiling fan with a remote.

Again, it's the KISS principle.
 
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