Hello,
I have a direct drive Whirlpool Washer Model GSX9885JT0 that will not spin. The last time it ran it went through all cycles and drained/spun out, however when the extra spin sycle was selected, it did not spin, you could just hear the drain solenoid activating-that was it. The motor does not run at all when spin is selected. I have put a jumper across the lid switch so I have eliminated this as the problem. I have measured all motor winding resistance values and all are within correct range. I also recently tested the wiring harness from the control board to the motor-all have continuity. I tested the motor capacitor and it tests ok with an ohmeter-charging and discharging in both directions with no measured short. I tested the motor actuation switch and no problems found there. I replaced the control board-it still won't spin-(I thought there was a bad solenoid on it). One of my suspicions is that the off-balance solenoid switch may be bad. The electrical schematic states that the coil resistance of this solenoid should measure 1.2 ohms-when I measure it directly with its switch closed, open it measures ~1150 ohms. The whirlpool tech sheet on this model states that by unplugging connector P5 and checking the resitance between P5-1 (BK) ans P5-3 (GY) that it should be near 1200 ohms with the lid closed. I think this is a misprint because I read 1.2 ohms which the tech sheet states as the 1200 is closer to the open contact resistance of the off-balance solenoid switch coil. I have also measured the voltage at the motor when I put it into spin mode, it read about 18 volts in several locations. The motor does not hum or smoke. When I run the neutral drain/spin test the LED's come on but nothing happens other than the drain solenoid that makes a big noise. Any suggestions on what to do next-I am kind of at a loss right now. Is there a way to create a cheater cord to energize the motor to see if it works if I removed it?
Thanks-Ted
I have a direct drive Whirlpool Washer Model GSX9885JT0 that will not spin. The last time it ran it went through all cycles and drained/spun out, however when the extra spin sycle was selected, it did not spin, you could just hear the drain solenoid activating-that was it. The motor does not run at all when spin is selected. I have put a jumper across the lid switch so I have eliminated this as the problem. I have measured all motor winding resistance values and all are within correct range. I also recently tested the wiring harness from the control board to the motor-all have continuity. I tested the motor capacitor and it tests ok with an ohmeter-charging and discharging in both directions with no measured short. I tested the motor actuation switch and no problems found there. I replaced the control board-it still won't spin-(I thought there was a bad solenoid on it). One of my suspicions is that the off-balance solenoid switch may be bad. The electrical schematic states that the coil resistance of this solenoid should measure 1.2 ohms-when I measure it directly with its switch closed, open it measures ~1150 ohms. The whirlpool tech sheet on this model states that by unplugging connector P5 and checking the resitance between P5-1 (BK) ans P5-3 (GY) that it should be near 1200 ohms with the lid closed. I think this is a misprint because I read 1.2 ohms which the tech sheet states as the 1200 is closer to the open contact resistance of the off-balance solenoid switch coil. I have also measured the voltage at the motor when I put it into spin mode, it read about 18 volts in several locations. The motor does not hum or smoke. When I run the neutral drain/spin test the LED's come on but nothing happens other than the drain solenoid that makes a big noise. Any suggestions on what to do next-I am kind of at a loss right now. Is there a way to create a cheater cord to energize the motor to see if it works if I removed it?
Thanks-Ted