Opening a wall

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1

1989gta

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My wife asked me to open a wall that separates our kitchen from our living room, this also includes an opening to the stairwell.The opening is 11.5 ft long. This wall is perpendicular to the roof supports above.
Directly below there is a metal I beam that runs the length of the house. On one side of the wall the beam sits on the block wall and two feet beyond the other side the beam is supported by a steel post.

i plan on using a veneer beam to replace the studs is 2x12 my only option?

Also is there anything i need to do below?
 
photos of the post
P1030215.JPG

P1030216.JPG

P1030217.JPG
 
here are photo's from the other side

P1030224.JPG


i would also like to remove the structure above the stairs

P1030225.JPG
 
Hello GTA:
No, 2 X 12s are not the only way to go. You could also use a glue-laminated beam, whether bought or made on site.
Be sure to install temporary bearing near the wall to keep the roof from collapsing when you take the wall out.
Glenn
 
glen thanks for the response.

for the laminated beam would the dimensions be the same as using two 2x12's nailed together. I'm looking for something that would give me the most over head room.

nick
 
Last edited:
Hello Nick:
Yes, the height of the beam could be made the same as 2 X 12s. Use 2 X 4s to make the beam and it will be the same thickness as a stud.
Glenn
 
i'm less concerned about the product and more concerned with the amount of headroom i'm sacrificing is there something that would allow me 10 or even 8 inches of space from the ceiling? I plan on removing the top plate to save myself 1.5 inches sinking the beam slightly into the ceiling.
 
How about an 8" steel I-beam. Probably take en engineer to do the calculations, but may work. There are even 6" tall ones available.
 
after discussing our options with the wife were going to go with a laminated beam and wrap it in Brazilian cherry to match the wood floor border.
 
You might want to cut the drywall back about a foot from the wall on the kitchen ceiling. That way you can get an idea on whats up there. You may be able to stuff the beam up to the floor sheeting above, then use some simpson hangers on joists. It looks about a 10' or better span. Better go big on beam, its also supporting stair risers. Maybe a laminated 4x10, 0r 12. Better consult a pro, you dont want any setbacks on this job. Good luck...
 
thanks for the advise
I went into the attic today and the roof rafters come to a V right above that wall. The rafters overlap and sit right on the top plate of that wall. Looks like i'm going to have to support both sides when i cut the wall out. for the beam support i plan on doubling a some studs and for the beam to rest on.
 
Hello Nick:
OK now we know what we're up against. There should be 3 studs at each end to support the beam. And yes, it is wise to support both sides temporarily.
Glenn
 
good to know tomorrow i'll contact some lumber yards to see if i can get some beam pricing and specs.
 
Hi I did the same project a few years ago. I have a 1 story house and the wall was load bearing. A local lumber yard had a computer program to calculate the spec's of the beam needed. I went with 2 2x12 laminated beams nailed and glued together. I rented jacks from a rental store for each side to support ceiling while I replaced the beam. I supported the laminated beam on the I-beam in the basement with 4x4 thru holes cut in the floor. I drywalled the arch with plastic round over trim. I haven't had any cracking or settling issues with it.

arch 7.jpg

arch 21.jpg

primed 003.jpg
 
Erndog,

Nice project! I really like the bull-nose corner bead. Thanks for posting picts too!
Doug
 
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