Under Cabinet Lighting

SpartanEpoxies
Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I can almost guarantee your microwave will not work on this circuit. It will snap the breaker like a dry twig. A micro hood combo will draw at least 1350 watts, and surely calls for a dedicated circuit. Just the micro and the existing lights will probably do it in alone. So you might consider putting micro on counter top, and plugging in the kitchen circuit your fridge is not on. Then you are right on track with switching changes for lights. You could run 14-2 and stub in center under each upper, right up against bottom of cabinet, these could run in a daisy chain, or you could run one for each cabinet back to j-box under counter. Then you could pick from several lights like flourescent or halogen. I'm sure we could find a little room in your panel for that new micro circuit, if you showed us a picture of it. Hey, good luck!
 
The other circuit in my kitchen has the fridge and two receptacles. Anyway that would work for the micro hood?

Is there any way I can replace the vent hood with the over the range micro at all? I really don't have experience adding a new circuit and I know that when I had some electrical updated they used some tandem breakers to free up space, so I really don't think I have any room. I already have the micro hood, so if it is between an over the range microwave and adding new cabinet lights I will take the microwave and do plug in lights if necessary.


Okay, I just realized after reading some things that it is common to put a gas stove and vent hood/microhood on the same circuit. I replaced the gas stove with electric, which freed up the outlet that was used for the gas range. So, could I just add the microwave on this circuit (what used to be used by the gas range) by extending the wiring to the upper cabinets?
 
I checked what was on the old gas range circuit and I found that there was a couple of receptacles on it as well. I plugged in the new over the range microwave on this circuit and turned pretty much everthing else on in the kitchen. I figured the breaker would trip, but it didn't. The only thing I noticed was when I turned the garabage disposal on, the lights flickered, but even without the micro running, they do that now.

I know that what is current code is probably not how my house was wired. The breakers have never tripped and I haven't had any problems with overloading a circuit. I guess I'm trying to figure out if this is a MAJOR no no, or if it is just not up to current code?
 
A major no no, maybe not, but a code issue? YES, But after all, its just us guys out here, I won't say anything if you don't. If the proposed outlet you spoke of for the micro, is the old gas oven power, and disposal, and a couple of counter top plugs that never get used, and a couple of existing lights; and you tried it and had no problem, and nothing will be plugged in to the other plugs like toaster, skillet, coffee, etc, etc., then I think it would work in theory. Is it right? NO, But probably will work. Definitely scratch u.c. lights off this circuit's list. Good luck!
 
triple D said:
And nothing will be plugged in to the other plugs like toaster, skillet, coffee, ect., ect. than I think it would work in theory. Is it right? NO, But probably will work. Definately scratch u.c. lights of this circuits list. Good luck! Take er easy.....
Click to expand...

Occasionally there will be some things plugged in, but obviously not running all at the same time. I'll get an estimate and see if it is worth it. I am just noticing as I learn more about electricity, that most the way my home is done is not "code". It works perfectly fine and in my opinion is not dangerous. I just didn't know how this ranked on that scale.

Do you have any idea what running a circuit would cost me? I'd say the kitchen is about 25-30 ft away from the panel and the guy I use charges 60-70/per hr. (All cabinets would be removed for easy access)
 
If I run a dedicated circuit for my microhood, and I have no more breaker space, can I: Take any 20 amp breaker and replace with a 20A tandem? Then run 12-2 or 12-3 wire from the one side of the breaker to the new microhood location and then reconnect whateve it was I took off the old breaker and attach the the new tandem? Is this correct or am I missing a bunch? Anything else I need to consider?
 
12-2w/g wire with it's neutral connected, yes.
12-3w/g wire in a panel often indicates a shared neutral. Definitely not something you'd want to do with a single pole tandem breaker.

Anyway, yes, that would give you a dedicated circuit to the microwave. All other general purpose receptacles need to be gfci protected.
 
Okay so my neutral bar has all slots filled. In fact the last contractor doubled up some neutrals. Can I just add to an existing neutral. As long as I make sure I securing screw down both neutrals is it doable? I know probably not code, but doable?
 
Kill the main breaker then it's doable.
Sometimes code is in the eye of the local inspector. I would usually buy the larger ground/neutral buss from the manufacturer if I knew I wasn't going to have enough room for my neutrals. But I've seen 2 wires under 1 screw a million times.

If your panel is a newer bonded type and you can see that the green bonding screw is in place, you may be able to buy a grounding bar and move some of your bare copper ground wires to that, to make room for more neutrals. You must buy the original manufacturer's kit for it to fit properly and be legal though.
 
Okay, so upon further inspection (I feel like I find something new each time I look). I notice that there is a 220V in my basement that is not being used. The hot wires were capped off to allow for additional space on the panel, but the neutral is still connected. Since this is not currently hooked up, can I remove and cap the neutral, which would provide the one open space I need for the dedicated circuit (and be legal)?

I'm guessing my panel is not newer, probably 1980's, so I would just double them up I guess If the above isn't going to work.
 
No. Never disconnect a neutral even to an unused circuit. UNLESS you disconnect the hot wires from the breaker and fold it all down out of the way or remove it from the panel altogether.

Why don't you set a sub-panel in the basement and branch your new circuits from there? You could use the 240v wire...
 
The 220 was already removed from the breaker panel. It has wire screws on the hot ends. The only thing remaining is the neutral. So essentially is is already removed, or at least out of the way. By removing the neutral I would gain the one needed for my dedicated circuit. I'm assuming since the hots have been removed from the breaker and the breaker itself is no longer in the panel, I can shut off the main and pull the neutral out of the bar??
 
yep :)
I'm convinced that you need to do this thing already lol
 
Code says that it has to be installed to manufacturers specs. Many manufacturers say that you can double wires on the buss bar. The only catch is that the wires you double up have to be the same size. 2 12's or 2 14's. No mixing sizes.

Run a Circut to the Micro while you have the opertunity.

Then have no fear in installing undercouter lights. Just pick the lights first and wire the lighting based on what you have picked. You can read up on some under counter lighitng options here. under counter lighting Brands and styles
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top