Attaching plywood to fireplace

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D725A

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Covering over an old brick fireplace with tile around the firebox and half inch plywood around that and the sides. Rosettes and pylasters will be nailed onto the plywood, then all the wood will be painted.

We are trying to use just one layer of plywood, so we don't build out the wood too far--which would require that the distance of flammable materials--like wood--be farther away. Right now we can come within 8 inches on the sides and 12-14 inches above the firebox. While it might be easier to add another layer of plywood so that the top layer of plywood could be nailed in using finishing nails, I'm seeking a way to install that first half-inch layer of plywood with anchors or masonry nails so that the nail holes are easily coverable and so after we paint, no holes are visible. I bring this up because my contractor just suggested adding another layer to make the attachment easier, but that would I think cause problems with the plan as I've described.
 
Yes, beautiful, but it's out of our budget, we've designed our own and have to go that way.
 
I your tile is 3/8" thick you could add 3/8 plywood around that and attach finnished product to that.
 
"I'm seeking a way to install that first half-inch layer of plywood with anchors or masonry nails so that the nail holes are easily coverable and so after we paint, no holes are visible"

Perhaps thin batton strips over the nail/screw heads. What style is your remodel if I may ask?
 
Predrill with countersink bit and glue in wooden plug. You can buy a plug cutter so you can make your own to match the wood.
 
Didn't see all these answers until now, thanks. We went with Ramset low velocity powder fasteners and Loctite PL400 adhesive, worked very well. We are now ready for tiling and have bought Acryl Pro ceramic tile adhesive. Tiles will be on the hearth--over new cement underfloor, and on front wall over the brick, wrapping around about 4 inches into the firebox on left and right sides. Acryl Pro claims it has a heat resistance of more than 10lbs per tile (meeting A136.1 Section 6.2.3.5) but I have no idea what temperatures that indicates. Some sites recommend thin-set instead of adhesive in these situations. I'd be most concerned about the hearth and areas slightly inside the firebox, though neither should be exposed to very very high temperatures. (See photo)

PS Acryl Pro people advised me not to use any pre-mixed adhesive or grout but to use their Flex Bond thin set mortar.

DSCN7953edsm.jpg
 
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D725A:

Nice work there , thanks for keeping us posted on your projects progress.

IMO I would feel better with thinset myself near the firebox opening. Perhaps a mason on here can give us a professional opinion.

Pls post up some pics as you go.
 
We went with the Flex Bond Thinset. Contractor put an initial coat on around the firebox and leveled off the hearth with sand mix; and I guess we'll have to wait until after the hurricane to continue. Meanwhile I've been going to tile stores to find possible trim tile for a border on the hearth tiles and around the firebox. May use a wood molding instead around the hearth since the tile is expected to be above the wood floor. Trying to keep this simple. see latest photo. (Flex Bond is polymer modified so it doesn't need an added bonding agent.)

DSCN7961sm.jpg
 
"Acryl Pro people advised me..." I'd follow the advice you get locally, except from big box stires where they now hire sales persons who have human relation skills instead of people who have experience in using the products.

Besides it seems that when someone here gives you advice, you're already a step past us.

I have no idea what "a heat resistance of more than 10lbs per tile" means either. Last time I weighed a fire my scale burnt up. From the sudden burst of flame, I'd say it was only rated for 3 pounds of heat. Or the fire could have been metric and incompatible with my scale.
 
I would have left the hearth low and tiled to the level of the floor. I know it is to late but others a reading this and may want to think about it.
 
"I know it is to late ..." D7 is too fast for us. I dunno why we bother answering.

"others... may want to think about it." Oh, great, more stuff to think about, every time I think of something new, something old falls out of my brain down into my body. When I take a history test, I have to ask my pancreas who St Pancras was.
 
Thanks, yes sometimes when a question arises once the job has started I have to make a decision really quickly since the contractor's clock is ticking. I generally throw a few questions out to a few sites--this being one of the best--and usually answers come in quickly but sometimes I have move quicker than that, but the advice here is quite good, and I've learned to anticipate --to some extent--the approach that you pros take. That's interesting about the big box stores hiring people with more human relations skills than knowledge. They should train the knowledgeable ones. We're tiling today, so I'll send some photos later.
 
Anything you do, you will find there are a few right ways, a few wrong ways to do it, and a whole bunch of ways in between. What is really important is that in the end, you like it and it works and lasts.
 
Put five carpenters in one room and you have five different opinions on how to do something.

IMO Funny thing is they all might just work.

No instant replays allowed! LOL
 
Update. we're all done except for some sanding, caulking and priming/painting. We're happy with the results. It's always good to have a few sets of eyes on projects as its ongoing so that you don't rush through proofing if everything is level and plumb. We had to do a few corrections on the vertical pilasters--always a challenge when the house is old and the fireplace itself is not fully level. We're glad we designed this ourselves and did not have to pay a fortune for materials or large fabricated mantels. We kept the old wood mantel on top. I'll send one more photo out when the painting's done. We also have to seal the grout/tile. We're not sure if we should fully sponge it first--it was cleaned once the day after grouting-- then seal or vice versa. We were advised to seal first, but that would seem to lock in any film or dust.

DSCN8005edsm.jpg
 
Nice work there and I know you saved a bundle. It will mean more to you this way, too.
 
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