Telephone Wiring in Garage: What can I do with this?

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Dry location is all that is needed, this is low voltage so no real spec.

:usa:
 
Yes, I realize that. I want to protect this from mechanical damage in the garage. I was looking for a small shallow box to protect the wires from getting pulled apart...I guess i could use a plastic blue box and run all that stuff into it mounted to the wall....Nothing is simple.
Dry location is all that is needed, this is low voltage so no real spec.

:usa:
 
Yes, I realize that. I want to protect this from mechanical damage in the garage. I was looking for a small shallow box to protect the wires from getting pulled apart...I guess i could use a plastic blue box and run all that stuff into it mounted to the wall....Nothing is simple.
Here is a site with some pretty good information on doing home telephone wiring.
<http://www.homephonewiring.com/blocks.html>
If you have a Graybar Electric Supply in your area they usually carry a good selection of telephone supplies including punch down blocks mounted in metal boxes.

--
Tom Horne
 
IMG_2957-2.jpg

I trimmed the fat on this POTS nest inbthe garage. I had Verizon come out and the guy was all evasive in his answers said the thing was already grounded; he took an assuming cavalier attitude that the system was grounded; I even think the system must be grounded to the plumbing in the house; I would still feel better if this thing was grounded BEFORE entering the house at the box outside.

Right now as you can see, the line is mated to the CAT5 and off it goes. The ground is not connected the phone line anymore as it was before harry homeowner got involved; I do hope the grounding wire that goes outside is doing the job-but I couldn't get a straight answer from this guy.

He said "I: could install a rod into the ground and then Verizon could come back and "move the ground" at no charge.....

It's not rocket science RIGHT...? I can either just leave well enough alone or continue and install a grounding rod but right now the system that's been here for decades has been altered........in that the phone line doesnt go through the grounded block anymore....I had to move it for the bike racks I made.

Any ideas?
 
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I would have been fired in a heart beat over a statement like that. Call them back and tell them to bring the grounding up to spec or your next call will be to the Public Utilities Commission. EVERY thing should be bonded together with the power to prevent flash over!
 
2cF7tOnH


i was just getting around to what the NID looked like and how it was grounded.....so the grounding wire that comes from INSIDE the house goes to the grounding bar in the NID so this thing MUST be grounded to the plumbing in the house....

Don't know what to think of the orange and blue wires in the TELCO side of things in the NID.

any ideas.

thanks
 
That would be a 2nd drop wire for more lines to the house.
 
2cF7tOnH


i was just getting around to what the NID looked like and how it was grounded.....so the grounding wire that comes from INSIDE the house goes to the grounding bar in the NID so this thing MUST be grounded to the plumbing in the house....

Don't know what to think of the orange and blue wires in the TELCO side of things in the NID.

any ideas.

thanks
How far is it from the Network Interface Device (NID) enclosure in your picture and any Grounding Electrode for the Electrical Service Disconnecting Means?

Is there a copper washer between each of the Grounding Electrode Conductors (GECs) that are connected to the old protector inside the house? If not then the connection to a Grounding Electrode inside the house is inadequate. If the communications Grounding Electrode Conductor (GEC) is connected to metallic plumbing inside the building then that connection must be made within Five feet of were the Metal Underground Water Pipe enters the structure. Piping that is any further than five feet from were it enters the structure is not acceptable as a Grounding Electrode as it is too subject to future replacement with non-metallic piping. Best practice is to make the connection on the supply side of the first shut off valve in the piping since their are few people who will tamper with a portion off the piping that they cannot shut off.

Grounding Electrode Conductors for Protectors which are mounted outside the building should not enter the structure at all. If the Electrical Service Grounding Electrode Conductor or some part of the Grounding Electrode Array is close enough and outside the building then the GEC should be run to that closest point on the Electrical Grounding System. If the distance is too great then the GEC should be run to a Grounding Electrode which is installed as close as practicable to the NID AND that new electrode should be bonded to the Electrical Service Grounding Electrode System using a number Two or larger copper conductor that is run outside the building. Were the soil conditions are suitable the bonding conductor between the two Grounding Electrode Systems should be buried in the earth. As with any other electrical conductor it must be Two Feet below finished grade if not run in conduit. Best practice is to run it as bare copper buried at least Thirty inches deep so that the bonding conductor itself can serve as additional Grounding Electrode.
 
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