I am new here and looking for advice on having attic and roof fire damage repaired. I won't be doing it myself but the insurance co keeps sending people who seem clueless to me so I need info as though I was doing it myself. (They said my preferred contractor wanted too much money) 
Here's the deal--Attic vent fan caught fire. I saw smoke out window, discovered fire on roof. The fire dept got here fast. Chopped hole in roof. Along with the roof damage, two-three rafters are charred. Lots of charred insulation, both loose and rolled. The roof is a fairly flat hip roof with 1 x 6 tongue and groove boards. Also plywood on top of that. (Not sure of size--think it is 1/2") Asphalt shingles.
How should the rafters be repaired? They may be OK structurally but I'd rather the attic not look like there was such a big fire (Not planning to sell soon and I wouldn't lie to buyers when I do but I'd rather not announce it so plainly.) Also I'd like some of the smell gone although I realize this won't do it entirely.
One guy said he'd replace the rafters after repairing and closing up the roof. How is that even possible? Another said the roof would sag during the rafter replacement process (They would cut one out, replace it, go to the next...) but that they would jack the roof back up. Is that possible to do? Will all that movement hurt the integrity of the roof? Especially if it sags where new boards and shingles won't be installed? Will that loosen shingles and cause leaks? Would it be better just to "sister" covering boards over? (not sure sister is the right word here) Should a brace be used during any of this?
2) How far out should repair of roof itself go to avoid leaks? Estimates have varied from needing 4 squares to 16 squares of shingles. I know the insurance co likes the 4 sq estimate but is this likely to leave me with a leaking roof? The 16 sq would have taken it to a natural break or join but the ins co says no.
3) Should the sticky ice stuff be used? Will that provide extra leak insurance? The roof does not have much slope. Some of the folks have recommended it. Not sure if the insurance co will go for it.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Here's the deal--Attic vent fan caught fire. I saw smoke out window, discovered fire on roof. The fire dept got here fast. Chopped hole in roof. Along with the roof damage, two-three rafters are charred. Lots of charred insulation, both loose and rolled. The roof is a fairly flat hip roof with 1 x 6 tongue and groove boards. Also plywood on top of that. (Not sure of size--think it is 1/2") Asphalt shingles.
How should the rafters be repaired? They may be OK structurally but I'd rather the attic not look like there was such a big fire (Not planning to sell soon and I wouldn't lie to buyers when I do but I'd rather not announce it so plainly.) Also I'd like some of the smell gone although I realize this won't do it entirely.
One guy said he'd replace the rafters after repairing and closing up the roof. How is that even possible? Another said the roof would sag during the rafter replacement process (They would cut one out, replace it, go to the next...) but that they would jack the roof back up. Is that possible to do? Will all that movement hurt the integrity of the roof? Especially if it sags where new boards and shingles won't be installed? Will that loosen shingles and cause leaks? Would it be better just to "sister" covering boards over? (not sure sister is the right word here) Should a brace be used during any of this?
2) How far out should repair of roof itself go to avoid leaks? Estimates have varied from needing 4 squares to 16 squares of shingles. I know the insurance co likes the 4 sq estimate but is this likely to leave me with a leaking roof? The 16 sq would have taken it to a natural break or join but the ins co says no.
3) Should the sticky ice stuff be used? Will that provide extra leak insurance? The roof does not have much slope. Some of the folks have recommended it. Not sure if the insurance co will go for it.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
