removing countertop glue from formica

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micah

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Hey guys, i just signed up with hrt, i am stumped, it might be a dumb question, but i just peeled off the formica countertop i had, it was all peeling and ugly, i was going to use this roll on granite i found at home hardware, anyways before i prime the mdf i think i need to clean all the glue off, i have a dremel maltimax sander and tried sanding the glue off but it just keeps clogging my sandpaper, does anyone have any advice on what i should use to clean the glue off easily?
 
Remove the wood and replace it. You will never get all off.
 
You need something like 24" belt sander and use the toy for the corners. Something coarse like 50 grit. But I think you would be better off changing the top out for 3/4 plywood. You said mdf, I suspect it is k3 board, either way they can not handle any water at all.
 
oh boy, ok the only countertop i can find to replace it is about 6bucks a foot, can i just primer overtop of it? or will that reak havoc on the primer itself
 
sorry money is gettin tight, so im tryin to do this as "budget friendly" as possible, why is plywood better?
 
i am going to be painting on "Giani" (brand name) roll on granite countertop, so i will have a primer layer, plus the primer layer from the granite kit, plus a color coat, plus the granite flake stuff, plus another color layer, plus a clearcoat sealer, thats why i ask if i need to get it all off, the instructions say to not worry about small cracks and little stuff
 
I figured you were trying to do this on the cheap. If plywood gets wet it will swell a little, the other products swell up a lot. If you have the tools you can make plywood look real nice with a 1x2 on the front. HHW has couple products like this, are you sure it's good for counter tops, some allow moisture thru.
 
they boast it being waterproof, so i hope so, i read a bunch of reviews and everyone was really happy with the outcome, i was going to double up on the clearcoat to make sure
 
What ever the product, you want to start out with a good foundation. I have never found any good way to remove contact cement.
 
oh ok thanks, so does that mean you would recommend sticking with what i have for a countertop base then? k stupid question, how do i tell the difference between mdf, particle board, and k3, the cupboards are solid oak and the countertop is original from when they were installed
 
ok so you would recommend with me sticking with the top i have? k stupid question, how can i tell the diference between mdf, particle board, and k3:confused:
 
Mdf looks like paper pressed together and k3 is sawdust particles pressed together. K3 = partical board.
Their complaint with plywood was the grain showing thru. Then I would have you look at the paperfaced plywood that is used for concrete forms. But all you can do is find as much info as possible and make somewhat of an educated decision.
 
Contact cement will be reactivated if you spread more contact cement on top of it. Why not find a cheap surface and glue it to what you have now instead of try to paint the glued surface.
 
thanks joe i might do that, i have had pretty good luck so far, i found out as i sanded, the dust stuck to the residual glue, it quit clogging my sander and it started going really well, ill see how well the splashback goes and update it as i go along, thanks a bunch guys, i love this site, im going to try and keep my project page updated with what im doing, but ya if someone has used that giani granite stuff let me know how it went, thanks:beer:
 

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