nealtw
Contractor retired
That does look like it should undo, below that you have a lead oakum joint to the bell. But yes you need some adjustment to set the new tub. I still think you have to get to the other end of the trap.
Bath Tub Removal
- Thread starter bcbucs
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
The drain you are replacing is a Gerber product. You can probably find out more about it from a pro or a plumbing supply house. It may be a short tail piece that goes down to the trap. It looks like a very corroded compression nut sitting on top of the bushing. I would be tempted to try and remove it but I'm sure it will break up as soon as you put any pressure on it.
The argument for replacing the trap now is that the floor is open already. Once you pour new concrete, you're not going to want ever go back in there again.
The argument for replacing the trap now is that the floor is open already. Once you pour new concrete, you're not going to want ever go back in there again.
The floor was already open with that square access space cut into the slab. My plan is to reuse the waste and overflow valve and replace the washers. This gerber product is better than the pvc ones I planned to put in anyways. I will have to figure out how to reconfigure the run to the shoe and the overflow to fit with a new tub. My other idea was to cut right about the oakum lead seal with sawzall and connect new pvc waste valve there.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Chances of find a tub that will get anywhere close to lining up will be slim. But it may be worth looking at new tubs first.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Dig it up and cut it on the other side of the P, then you could replace it with ABS or pvc
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFBZ0NohwYo[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFBZ0NohwYo[/ame]
I'm not going to do that I will have to jackhammer out a bunch more flooring and slab. I want to keep the current waste and overflow valve but want to modify length to connect to the tub if necessary. How could I do this with the current valve? Cut it with sawzall and use coupling with new pvc shoe?
nealtw
Contractor retired
Well you have the bathroom in a mess now, when would be better time.
The trap is right below where you are so removing it is not the mess he was in. And by removing the trap you get to see the condition of the pipe there.
The trap is right below where you are so removing it is not the mess he was in. And by removing the trap you get to see the condition of the pipe there.
Im not a plumber, but Im with you on this one. Sometimes the best thing to do is let a sleeping dog sleep.
I think the new PVC tail piece will adjust with a compression fitting and the overflow you could figure out how to jog if you need to. This job looks a bit like building a ship in a bottle.
You may well have to take it back more but before I did that I would see if I could work around it.
Hopefully a real plumber will show up and offer some advice as well.
nealtw
Contractor retired
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
Before you try to make the old waste work, consider buying a new gerber brass drain: http://www.gerberonline.com/products/bathroom-bath-drains
And before you cut the old pipe with a sawzall, figure out how exactly you will reassemble the setup. The space above the cast iron is limited and you will be adding a connection. Can you confirm if that is a compression fitting just above the bushing? If so, removing it will give you max access to the connection.
And before you cut the old pipe with a sawzall, figure out how exactly you will reassemble the setup. The space above the cast iron is limited and you will be adding a connection. Can you confirm if that is a compression fitting just above the bushing? If so, removing it will give you max access to the connection.
I think above the bushing is actually a lead oakum seal like somebody said before rather than a bushing. Its circular and does not have any flat edges like a nut. I'm thinking I will leave the gerber tee and then reconfigure the waste and overflow connections from that Tee to fit a new tub. I plan to reconfigure them by cutting then using a no hub connection with pvc cut to the correct lengths for the new tub.
nealtw
Contractor retired
The adapter in the hub is just leaded in and can be taken out with 1/4" wide chisel
Then there is a rubber adapter that would give you more room to play with.
http://www.yourepair.com/1504/how-to-transitioning-metal-or-pvc-to-cast-iron-waste-pipe.html
Then if that still doesn't give you what you need there are flexible over flow tubes in kits
https://www.google.ca/search?q=bath...r+flow+with+slight+bend&imgrc=Vq_pqEYdUGiocM:
Then there is a rubber adapter that would give you more room to play with.
http://www.yourepair.com/1504/how-to-transitioning-metal-or-pvc-to-cast-iron-waste-pipe.html
Then if that still doesn't give you what you need there are flexible over flow tubes in kits
https://www.google.ca/search?q=bath...r+flow+with+slight+bend&imgrc=Vq_pqEYdUGiocM:
Shouldn't the overflow head & tube and the shoe & tube separate from the tee since I've unscrewed the compression nuts? Is there something else holding the tubes in place with the tee? Maybe I'm not using enough force to separate them.
nealtw
Contractor retired
In this picture we see a little blue or green.
If the fitting that the pipe is going into is galvanized, brass does not play well with zinc and steel.
So just below that it looks like lead, either he did some kinda solder joint or some one crawled under there and stopped a leak.
Either way you could have lead holding it from coming out.
If the fitting that the pipe is going into is galvanized, brass does not play well with zinc and steel.
So just below that it looks like lead, either he did some kinda solder joint or some one crawled under there and stopped a leak.
Either way you could have lead holding it from coming out.
