Seams in Crown Moulding

Hi,
I recently had crown moulding installed throughout my house as part of a home renovation. The job was started at the end of March and finally completed at the end of October. I've noticed that there are gaps in ALL of the seams in the crown mouldings. They were previously caulked, primed, and painted and appeared fine, but all of the caulking has receded now and it's left all of the seams exposed. During the renovations, the air conditioning was on at night and we have a humidifier on our furnace .I've called the contractor and he is coming back to address this issue, but I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to a permanent fix to this problem. I understand that shrinkage is normal given the changes in seasons, temperature, and humidity, but is there a specific type of caulking that should be used to fix this problem? Can I expect this shrinkage to happen again in the future with changes in season, temperatures, and humidity? I've also noticed a few vertical cracks in the wall between the crown moulding and the top of the door frame where none previously existed. Is that common? Any advice or insight (especially about the proper type of caulking) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

My go to caulking is Alex 230.
I also would have used Tite bond II glue on the joints, but to late now.
No nails used where the joints over lap?

Here is my favorite...

Thanks for your advice joecaption. I'll check to see if Home Depot stores in Canada carry that caulking. I didn't watch the installation as it was part of a major main floor renovation. I stayed on the upper floor while they worked downstairs so I'm not sure what process or materials were used to install the crown moulding. Knock on wood so far only the mud has shrunk along all of the miter lines (sorry if my terminology is wrong -- that's why I hired professionals LOL. It hasn't separated along the ceiling line and it better not.

Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it because I want to be "armed" with possible products that could remedy this problem, as the work is only under warranty for one year and the contractor doesn't seem too keen on having to do a callback. I want the job done properly even if that means buying a higher priced product. I don't want a "quick, cheap" fix. Thanks again!

I would nag the contractor.

Havasu, Thank you very much for your advice, too! I'll check my local Home Depot store to see if they carry that caulking. I noticed that it says "windows and doors" on the tube. Can it be used effectively on wooden ceiling crown mouldings in my hallways, living room and dining room? Are you suggesting that caulking because it offers flexibility? I live in Canada and we experience cold winters and warm summers so I'm hoping I can find a product that will withstand the changes in temperature. This isn't a repair that I want to see yearly. After Googling I came across the term "elastomeric caulking". Is the caulking that you recommended an elastomeric caulking? - just curious!

Also, is it important to adhere to the drying time? My contractor doesn't like to wait so I think I'll have a fight on my hands if I tell him that he needs to follow the suggested drying times before he primes and paints over it. I want the gaps filled and repainted (without flashing). Thanks again!

If you do not see cracks between the molding and the wall or molding and ceiling then this dap was likely used at the time and the contractor should know all about it.

nealtw - LOL at "nag". A bit of background info ....It was a 6 figure reno (kitchen, two washrooms, new hardwood, tiling, crown moulding, etc). I didn't nag, but I "picked my battles" along the way (eg. if the subfloor was still creaking, I asked them to put in more screws). In hindsight, the problem is that the contractor is the business owner (he does the quotes, presentations, sits in his showroom to cater to prospective clients). He uses subcontractors and he didn't do any of the work himself (he only came onsite if I requested that he come) -- which was twice). The job was estimated to take 8 weeks and it ended up taking over 22 weeks so he can't say I wasn't flexible. I didn't complain about the timelines until week 18. When I presented photos of the unsatisfactory work to the owner, he admitted that all of my concerns were valid and he'd look after it. I ended up making my own "punch list" and it's a good thing I did because by the end of the reno, there was A LOT friction. For example, near the end of the reno, I asked the owner to come to the job site to see one of my concerns first hand and he ended up storming out of my house while swearing, "What the F#$K do you want now? I've made no money on this F#$King job" --- he later admitted that his response was inappropriate and made out of frustration, but I know what he's capable of and I have a feeling I'll have to "nag". He also knows that he's "only" dealing with a female client but I made a point of telling him that he may scream louder than me, but that doesn't make him right. I expected hiccups along the way and this is a good company so I can only imagine how this would have played out if I'd gone with some fly by night company. End of rant

I know the painter used "mud" the first time he filled the mitered edges. I saw him do that. Those are the same areas that have all receeded. Here's hoping they used a different product against the walls and ceiling -- if they crack too, I'll flip! LOL

If he dosn't do it you could do it your self easy enough with a tube and caulking gun you just lay a line on the crack and pu**** in and smooth it with a wet finger. It is white and often the painting can just be skipped.

OP,
I've had good results with that all too common problem using Phenoseal. Force it into the cracks with a plastic blade. Let dry then repeat. Spot prime. Paint. Drywall mud is NOT the correct way to do this. That is the way one would do it if looking for cheap and fast with no concern for the inevitable problems that will occur.

LuckyAbby72 said:

Havasu, Thank you very much for your advice, too! I'll check my local Home Depot store to see if they carry that caulking. I noticed that it says "windows and doors" on the tube. Can it be used effectively on wooden ceiling crown mouldings in my hallways, living room and dining room? Are you suggesting that caulking because it offers flexibility? I live in Canada and we experience cold winters and warm summers so I'm hoping I can find a product that will withstand the changes in temperature. This isn't a repair that I want to see yearly. After Googling I came across the term "elastomeric caulking". Is the caulking that you recommended an elastomeric caulking? - just curious!

Also, is it important to adhere to the drying time? My contractor doesn't like to wait so I think I'll have a fight on my hands if I tell him that he needs to follow the suggested drying times before he primes and paints over it. I want the gaps filled and repainted (without flashing). Thanks again!

Click to expand...

The stuff I posted is just a few cents more expensive than others, but has a really great elastic quality, and is paintable.

Superior quality, all-purpose acrylic latex caulk plus silicone. Highly flexible and durable for a waterproof seal. Excellent adhesion. Cured caulk is mold and mildew resistant. Easy to apply and tool. Paintable. Easy water clean-up. Indoor/outdoor use. Exceeds ASTM Specification C834.

For crown moulding you need something that will STICK because the moulding shifts quite a bit from winter to summer and year to year, the wood expands and contracts with temperature and humidity levels.
If you are also going to paint it then needs to be paintable.

Technically the best way to put up crown moulding is to install it with adhesive caulk when you put it up this lessens some of the movement.