Drain for Washer?
- Thread starter tooltime
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inspectorD
Housebroken
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I like the duct tape hub connector myself.
So how does one go about fixing this issue if it is still not correct?
That's really what we are here for guys.
The sump should drain outside prefferably at least 10 feet away from the foundation.
The S trap just needs a 4 inch flat on the upper section of the s trap, then it becomes a P trap.
I still do not understand what the Y is above the s trap...where does it go?
Does someone think they are equalizing the pressure or is this a redundant vent?
My advice is if this is a homeowner job, get the building dept at the least to get there to see where you went wrong. That is their job after all. Not just to look at the pro's and what they screw up, but to help homeowneres who will not hire someone, and end up doing it themselves anyway.
I love diggin up the old shtuff.
So how does one go about fixing this issue if it is still not correct?
That's really what we are here for guys.
The sump should drain outside prefferably at least 10 feet away from the foundation.
The S trap just needs a 4 inch flat on the upper section of the s trap, then it becomes a P trap.
I still do not understand what the Y is above the s trap...where does it go?
Does someone think they are equalizing the pressure or is this a redundant vent?
My advice is if this is a homeowner job, get the building dept at the least to get there to see where you went wrong. That is their job after all. Not just to look at the pro's and what they screw up, but to help homeowneres who will not hire someone, and end up doing it themselves anyway.
I love diggin up the old shtuff.
Hello everyone,
This time I am looking for help/suggestions to put a washer/dryer n a basement with no floor drain. My main concern is for the drainage of the washer. All I have is the area for the sump pump.
The drainage system goes out the rear where I plan on putting the units, but it is roughly 44 off the floor. I do not know if it is feasible to tap into this somehow.
The other option I can think of is just draining it into the sump area (approx 18-20: across, about 3 deep) but my concern there is the sump pump not working out of the blue, then having a flooded basement.
Ideas anyone?
No, I don't know why there is duct tape there, was not ready to remove it in case bad things happen
Hello tooltime They do sell battery backup sump pumps
hewood
DUNBAR
Master Plumber
If that's a setup for a washing machine, that pump on the unit will fail with that much vertical lift involved.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Just a dumb question, What about air behind water for the trap, would that screw up the pump?
Looks to me to be easier to pull the 4" cast "Y" and change it to plastic for about 3 ft above, wouldn't that give you room to add a "y" for the washer, the air behind water, the stack height and and a new "Y" for the pump.
Looks to me to be easier to pull the 4" cast "Y" and change it to plastic for about 3 ft above, wouldn't that give you room to add a "y" for the washer, the air behind water, the stack height and and a new "Y" for the pump.
junilerick
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Jeez this is quite a complicated project you got yourself there. I would probably just hire a professional which may be a bit more cost effective.
WhiteTiger
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This set up is wrong for other valid reasons. Now you have an open pipe in the basement on an overhead sewer. When the city sewer or even your own sewer backs up it will come out of this pipe and flood your basement.
The proper way of doing this would of been cutting in a 3x2 tee on the 3" pipe and installing a pump in a box venting the pump in the box and running the discharge of the pump into the 2" inlet of the 2x3 tee. Do not forget a check valve on the pump discharge.
http://www.libertypumps.com/Data/SalesLiterature/404.pdf
The proper way of doing this would of been cutting in a 3x2 tee on the 3" pipe and installing a pump in a box venting the pump in the box and running the discharge of the pump into the 2" inlet of the 2x3 tee. Do not forget a check valve on the pump discharge.
