Help with rewiring light fixtures to switches

If you have power entering fixture A then you need 14/3 cable to the switch box in order to make fixture B work.

Thanks Joe. So if the power source is entering Light Fixture B, I then run 14/3 cable from Light Fixture B to Light Switch B? Would I also have to run 14/3 cable from Light Switch A to Light Fixture A? How would the wiring be inside the 3 gang switch box so there is power to both the light switches and operate separately? Thanks again, got myself in a mess now lol.

Your drawing shows the switches side by side in the first room. if that's what you want you need the 14/3 but if the switch is in the other room you will just change some connections in light B and add the switch to light A

NO
The 14/3 is used as follows.
At the fixture A box
Black is unswitched power to the switch. It should connect to the black power feed from the box.
Red is switched power coming back from the switch. Connect it to the black from the light
White is neutral. Connect all the whites together.

At the switch box.

Connect a two pigtails to the black and connect one each to the two switches. This is the power feed to both switches.
Connect all the white together.
Connect the red to the switch for fixture A. This is the switched power going back to fixture A.

The cable for fixture B should have the white connected with all the other whites and the black connected to the second terminal on the second switch.

Joe, power comes to light B, goes to the switch and back up to light B and then continues on to light A . So in the box for light B he can change the wire from the switched wire to the power source.
This gives continues power to the Light A and a new wire running to the new switch A. What he missed is the black to white connection in the box for light A. He may not understand , there is no nuetral in a swtch leg.

Thanks for posts guys. Yes nealtw, the switches will be in the same box together, but separately control each light independently. So I can run 14/3 cable from Light Fixture B (where power source enters) back to light switch box. Would the cable running from Light Switch A to Light Fixture A have to be 14/3 also or just 14/2 cable? Then basicly just wire up the light switches in the box and I should be good. Sorry for being such a newbie with this stuff and again thanks for the advise guys.

This picture has the 14/3 that Joe suggested, which is fine but notice it does not have a wire between the two lights. If you have a new wire from light a back to the switch box you can use what you have. The wire that runs between the two boxes wants to be disconnected from the where it is in box B and connected to the ps wire in that box. Now you have to light boxes each with a power source In both boxes a white wire goes to the light from the power source, In both boxes the black of the switch wire is connected to the power souce, the white from the switch wire is marked black with tape and connected to the other side of the light. In the swtch box each wire has a white and black to it's own switch and is not connected together in any way other than ground.

Joe, power comes to light B, goes to the switch and back up to light B and then continues on to light A . So in the box for light B he can change the wire from the switched wire to the power source.

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Then you need to use the white to bring power to the switches and the red and black for the two switched power lines back from the switches.

Thanks fellas, can't wait to give this a shot. I might have to wait a couple days to try though, I'll see. I'll post back and let you know how things went.

Pick one, go with what Joe suggested or with what I suggested, don't try to mix the two.

BSB74 said:

Thanks for posts guys. Yes nealtw, the switches will be in the same box together, but separately control each light independently. So I can run 14/3 cable from Light Fixture B (where power source enters) back to light switch box. Would the cable running from Light Switch A to Light Fixture A have to be 14/3 also or just 14/2 cable? Then basicly just wire up the light switches in the box and I should be good. Sorry for being such a newbie with this stuff and again thanks for the advise guys.

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nealtw is right you only need 14-2 from A to A. Assuming your diagram is accurate.

Pretty basic. You run your 120V hot and neutral to light B, light A, and your plugs. Then you drop your 2 @ 14-2 switch legs from light A and B to your switches A and B.

But you should probably hire an electrician to check your work because a small mistake can lead to a big problem with this stuff.

These kind of threads scare me a little, as it’s always hard to assess someone coming here as to their background knowledge on the subject and it’s not like a plumbing job where you might end up getting a wet floor if you don’t get it right. Electricity isn’t something to have doubts about. That being said we have all popped a fuse or two in our day learning.

The important part about any of these trades and DIY is not just accomplishing the task at hand but having the understanding of what it is and why you are doing what you are doing.


With that being said I will give my input based around not any of the other drawings posted but the OP’s first sketch.

First off he can forget about the two REC outlets he shows, they work fine and can stay as they are.
Power comes into box B. Box B is a junction box along with being a light box holding light (B)forgetting the switches and REC the simple circuit is power comes in (Black hot White common) is connected to light (B) and then continues on to light (A) as a parallel circuit, both lights would be on all the time. In the original configuration LSB breaks the Hot black side of the circuit and turns on both lights. It could have just as easily turned on only light (B) at that point (T off hot to light then switch) and allowed power to continue on to light (A) that would stay on all the time. Now we want to add another switch to control light (A)it can be added into Box B or Box A. the hot wire Black running out of box B can be broken with the new switch or that same hot wire running into box A can be broken with the new switch. This should be decided by is it easier to run a new wire to A or B from wherever you want to place the new switch. I suggested a double switch if the original location of LSB is ok for the new LSA. Doing that wouldn’t require any new boxes just one wire following the original path of the old switch wire.

This is the basic circuit of power to a light with a pair of wires running down to a switch. In this case it’s just times two.

To the OP. Try not to just follow the directions of others when doing this and wiring it up. Take what you are learning and make a new sketch based around what you have learned and your plan, post it up and we can give you the green light to go. Home wiring is fun and once you get the basics you will be doing all sorts of projects like this.

Just an updates guys, finally had some time on my vacation. Was able to get this completed and working exactly how I wanted. Would like to thank everybody for their advice and time, very much appreciated. Big thanks to nealtw, the picture you posted,

was exactly what I wanted. Thanks again everybody. Time to get another project going .

Testing, is this thing on?

Hi, all, I'm new here, just typed a big long problem and lost it somehow.
My whole afternoon has been this way.

I didn't want to start a new thread, this one was close to what I'm experiencing, so I revived it, I hope that's ok.

I screwed up a light fixture installation.
Took down an old ceiling fan & light kit, and neglected to tag the wires thinking it was a simple job.
Installed an LED light & compatible dimmer, now when light is switched on, outlets lose power and vice versa.
I didn't realize the outlets were tied in to the fan.

I've been searching for hours and can't figure it out, because I was sure it was right.

What I have to this point;
Power into the wall switch, 2 other room lights on the same circuit.
4 wire cable to the light, 3 wire cable from there to the outlet.
Took the old toggle switch off, tied the red to the black on the light, the white on the light to the the 2 white cable wires together, and the remaining 2 black cable wires together.

If anyone can help, I'd very much appreciate it.
Thanks.

*EDIT* I went back and put the old toggle switch in.
It works again. The light box had the compatible dimmer switch on it, but for dome reason it's not working right.
I don't think it was wired wrong, unless there's a mixup in the old switch box wiring.
Idk. 0_o

*EDIT* (again)
Fixed. The old toggle switch was wired as a 3 way switch, common tied into 2 other rooms.
I kept trying to wire it as a single.
Hopefully this will help someone else.

BigCajun said:

Testing, is this thing on?

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Welcome to the site, glad you got it worked out.

BigCajun: don't worry about starting a new thread, they're free Welcome to the site.