Weeping tile installation
- Thread starter Jungle
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
C
Chris
Guest
You can do that to if your sanitation district will allow.
nealtw
Contractor retired
That would be a no in BC
Ok, great. I put into the septic field instead.
The next problem is the porch, which is a large block of concrete that has already separated, cracked away form the house foundations due to water damage. It is still fairly level. Would you try to slide the pipe through the soil bellow the porch or go all the way around? Same with the down spouts. It's about 6' width.
I guess hammer a 2x4 through to the other side, or no weeping tile. I can't water proof the wall at this point... or maybe carefully clean out 2" from the wall and at least slide in some plastic dimple..?
The next problem is the porch, which is a large block of concrete that has already separated, cracked away form the house foundations due to water damage. It is still fairly level. Would you try to slide the pipe through the soil bellow the porch or go all the way around? Same with the down spouts. It's about 6' width.
I guess hammer a 2x4 through to the other side, or no weeping tile. I can't water proof the wall at this point... or maybe carefully clean out 2" from the wall and at least slide in some plastic dimple..?
Last edited:
C
Chris
Guest
If you are going to connect your downspouts I would leave a 6" section of pipe out so the water has to fall into the other pipe and then have a good grate, I would go brass and not plastic so the fins wont break as easily, leaves in your sewer can back up easily and cause you lots of problems.
As for the backwater valve, we install them with a piece of 8" or so pipe coming up like a cleanout and put a box with lid on top of that so there is always access to the valve, they don't last forever so it is nice to be able to get to them.
As for the backwater valve, we install them with a piece of 8" or so pipe coming up like a cleanout and put a box with lid on top of that so there is always access to the valve, they don't last forever so it is nice to be able to get to them.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
You said the house formerly had a septic system. If it is still in place, maybe you could use that for a drain field.
Now the guy at rent all convinced me i could DIY and rent a mini ex.
Can someone provide instructions on "How to excavate around foundation walls using a mini-ex?'
Is there any technique, should i put the dirt on tarps? What position should the machine be? How do i scoop right beside the walls? Youtube is no help. Which way should i put the dirt? I guess start hand digging around the gas and water, the sewer is way down...
Can someone provide instructions on "How to excavate around foundation walls using a mini-ex?'
Is there any technique, should i put the dirt on tarps? What position should the machine be? How do i scoop right beside the walls? Youtube is no help. Which way should i put the dirt? I guess start hand digging around the gas and water, the sewer is way down...
Last edited:
nealtw
Contractor retired
http://www.bobcat.com/excavators/choosing
Look at the 45 and 180 degree for these 2 hoes
Look at the 45 and 180 degree for these 2 hoes
oldognewtrick
In memory of
I can see this becoming another thread topic soon...
nealtw
Contractor retired
Still wondering about the porch which is in the way. How do i install the pipes? Dig through to the other side? Maybe dangerous with massive slab of concrete. I assume there are no foundation for the concrete slab. Or do think there should be?
Seems to be a trouble spot in the basement near there too. Damn there is always another thing!
Seems to be a trouble spot in the basement near there too. Damn there is always another thing!
nealtw
Contractor retired
All the safety stuff that you need for underground mining.
When the dig a hole for a foundation they dig it big so five feet of dirt beside the wal cannot be trusted to be safe and stable, it may be but you don't want to trust it. So the deeper you go the wider you want the trench to be.
The slab has to be judged for how well it will st if you end up trenched out something 4 ft deep and something like 3 1/2 feet wide under the slab.
I would say the safest bet is to remove about three feet of it. If you do shore it up and dig under it back filling will be a problem.
When the dig a hole for a foundation they dig it big so five feet of dirt beside the wal cannot be trusted to be safe and stable, it may be but you don't want to trust it. So the deeper you go the wider you want the trench to be.
The slab has to be judged for how well it will st if you end up trenched out something 4 ft deep and something like 3 1/2 feet wide under the slab.
I would say the safest bet is to remove about three feet of it. If you do shore it up and dig under it back filling will be a problem.
So about a 3' trench? I guess rain would be a problem i am waiting for some good dry weather.
I was going to start with the hand digging around the spots.
Here is the plan, i wonder do i put the access pipe just after the before it?
I was going to start with the hand digging around the spots.
Here is the plan, i wonder do i put the access pipe just after the before it?
Last edited:
nealtw
Contractor retired
Never hooked one up but I think you would want access to it like a small manhole or something. ??
I don't think it is good to have an air space that will just attract water. I assume it should work a long time, does the sewer really back up that far?
I meant an access pipe to the weeping pipe just before the back valve and cap going up. That's gonna be a lot hand digging.
I guess rain will be a problem with the soil collapsing.
I meant an access pipe to the weeping pipe just before the back valve and cap going up. That's gonna be a lot hand digging.
I guess rain will be a problem with the soil collapsing.
nealtw
Contractor retired
You want to be carefull when you are head down in a trench a little landslide is all that is needed to kill you.
Did you see on the show Dirtist jobs, where the sewer line at the street was plugged and the people at the bottom of the hill were on holidays. They came home to feet of sewer in the house.
Did you see on the show Dirtist jobs, where the sewer line at the street was plugged and the people at the bottom of the hill were on holidays. They came home to feet of sewer in the house.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
If you do rent a machine, take it out back and practice until you are comfortable. I have dug close to the house without a problem, but it takes 100% concentration, 100% of the time. My mind drifted for a second and I almost took out a column on my front porch. Luckily the machine controls were responsive.
The arm of the mini-ex is slightly off-center, so work with that side closer to the building. you will want to work from the far end and back up the machine as you go.
And I would consider doing the final layer of dirt - that is stuck to the wall - by hand after the trench is dug.
The arm of the mini-ex is slightly off-center, so work with that side closer to the building. you will want to work from the far end and back up the machine as you go.
And I would consider doing the final layer of dirt - that is stuck to the wall - by hand after the trench is dug.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
It looks like you are draining to the left in your diagram. Maybe you could avoid the area under the porch and have the drainpipes exit on either side of it, then tee them together a little way downstream.
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
If you have any doubt about the safety of the trench, you can shore up the sides with plywood and some boards. The boards would be horizontal and brace up against the building (like a truss)
