Replacement of vinyl windows

So I will have to get some pics.. but

Our windows are alenco and seals are broken, several fogged up. They are 9 yrs old.
So I commenced the search for IGU replacement
Seems for about $100 per IGU actually less we can replace them in our crappy frames. But with them also leaking air around the frames so we were going to check out replacements.

we have 27 windows total.. (3 of them are big picture , 3 over the top of the picture windows.)
I had alenco come out and the guy was rude.. no display units just looked at a couple windows and said yep..$1100 a window.. I said.. you better just leave now.. before we chop ya up.
Then we had rolox come out (we previously had rolox in last house) triple pane gas etc.. and we got a good deal as the rep was quitting and ripped the boss. They even tried to call us and ask for more.
So anyways.. he came out looked at a few of the windows.. 5 of them an gave us a price of $5300 these are just single hung we have.. but the replacements would be double hung/triple pane triple gas. We just said uh.. we dont think so.. and then he spilled the beans that he knew how much we paid before. and he would check to see if he could match it. Well he called back and gave us a price of $581 for each window, and that would lock us in if we wanted to do just the 5 now and the other 15 later in batches etc.

Now my question.
This is a new composite window.. thermal line thv Has anyone had any experience with the composite windows? I mean we chose the rolox last time due to the price of being triple pane with the gas package was same as a double pane price.

Also I need to get a picture to describe this.. but our existing vinyl windows are butted up into the sheetrock on the return? and molding over the nailing fin outside. They are saying they can cut the window out and not have to remove the nailing fin.. Should we do that or make them remove the molding/trim. I don't remember if these replacements can have a nailing fin. But it just seems like it would fit odd how it is being described.. heck let me get up and take a pic of the window 255 is the inside and pic 257 is the outside. Does it seem right what they are talking about cutting.. seems it would leave behind a bit of the vinyl from behind that drywall lip. After rereading .. I guess I could tell this if I measured the width from the vinyl inside window to the edge of the drywall and do the same outside.. I guess the problem would be if the replacement window was thicker than this existing unit.. Then they would have to cut into the drywall ughh.. I hope I am wrong

Update
well it is locally called rolox here in the kansas city area. I had bought the triple panes before from them.
But I am having a soft lite? rep come out tomorrow night
Did thermalline buy out thv or the other way round?
THV THERMALine or ROLOX gave me a previous customer quote of
$581 any window.. and I was going to do 5 windows to lock the price in. So $2905 for the 5 35x64 windows.
So for 22x581=$12782.

I have 29 total
10-35x64 (bedrooms, attic) (2 w/grilles)-
2-35x70 living room-
1-half circle over 2-35x70 w/grilles-
1-48x49 big square fixed in bathroom-
2-31x34 small windows in closet w/grilles-
1 31x34 small window in kitchen-
2-22x70 dining room muttons-
1-34x70 dining room muttons-
1-24x50 small fixed over entry muttons-
1-34x70 entry w/grilles-
Plan to just replace the IGU's for the ones below and have had several quotes from local glass companies and it will be $1100
3-38x80 fixed kitchen-
4-38x22 fixed kitchen-

My best advice is to get a contractor with a good reputation and experience involved. It sounds like the companies that you are involved with right now are unprofessional and are looking to make a quick buck. Your last batch of windows lasted 9 years! They should last 3 times that long. And for the price that they are asking you could get a much better quality window. You get what you pay for but why not invest in something that will last twenty five years or more?
If they just cut the windows out and slip the new ones in, they are counting on very poor flashing details to protect against intrusion of water. In addition, how will the window be insulate properly if you can't get access the space between the jambs and the rough framing.
There could be a number of issues with any new windows, especially trying to line up a new window with the interior dry wall stops. You need to hire a professional who really knows what they are doing.

Josh Jaros (Jaros Bros. Construction)

Well we have only lived in this house for 5months.. but yeah 9yrs. We went with rolox in our last house.. but the existing windows were wood. Yeah I am not so sure how the flashing etc should go on these replacement windows in my situation
Basically I have a 1x6 of painted cedar over the nailing fin of the existing windows. none of the reps are saying they need to remove the trim to install the windows.. And I know there is not any metal flashing over the tops of the trim. Maybe i will get a picture to post

I think some of them know but can't explain it very well. but one rep tonight showed me that they may need to cut the drywall and plate to allow for the window to fit. and he said what the other guys might be doing is adding a stop on the outside.. Yeah too bad a guy cant order replacement windows with nailing fins.. If i removed the trim so they could install.. but I guess newer windows or triple panes are going to have a thicker frame than my existing so the drywall stops will have to be cut anyways.. hrmm

I was wondering why you can't buy a vinyl replacement window with a nailing flange, is that not an option on their windows,and the next thing i would be doing is pulling off that cedar trim and take out the old unit and install a simonton replacment window with nailing flanges on it , but before i install the window i would put a bead of silicone around the perimeter then install the window. How else does the unit seal up... silicone..Then install the cedar back on the house. You may need to putty some holes or have the company cap the wood with aluminum so you never have to paint the trim again.

You need to ask for references of other jobs they have done like yours.Or ask if they are working somewhere close so you can see how the install will go.

Lots of luck. I have actual 10 year old Alenco builder grade windows that are just simply falling apart! Condensation between the panes, bottom sash weatherstripping shot, noisey, etc... Thinking of replacing them, but they are nailed in with "fins". The windows where the exterior is vinyl siding are no problems, simply pull away the siding and a nice replacement job can be done. The windows where the exterior is brick face UGH!!! Can't take away the brick. They have to be cut and the fins left in place. Now, what about flashing etc.? Anyway, lots of luck.

I have to agree with pa350z. We have Alenco windows from the early 90s and they have been falling apart for years now. We paid a local glass company (Sheas Glass in Gainesville) to replace the double pane glass inserts. They were inexpensive, (around $125 per window, as I recall), but the company did a slap-happy sorry job on the insert replacements. Especially the 2nd round when we had even more windows going to fog. One window that they repaired requires the Incredible Hulk to raise it up and down, because it is jammed in the frame so tight it doesnt work and this is after the repair job.

Worse, they did not even provide an itemized list of what they quoted me originally vs. what they actually installed, which created a lot of confusion. Plus, they were supposed to do minor repairs on the other Alencos - supply missing parts and that sort of thing, and then didnt.

I will never use Sheas again, and I will not pay another dime on these windows. I am glad that some still work, but we are now looking at having to REPLACE some of the others, like the big window in the Dining room bay that is all fogged up.

Like you, we have to tear off the outer cedar wood trim and probably the T-111 cedar siding to get the old window out, as it has fins on the sides. This does not look like an easy job - but then again, it looks like the price you are being quoted is pretty high.

I guess if I had it to do over, i would get new windows instead of repairing old junky windows. The energy savings alone are probably worth it, especially if there is a tax credit to be had (or use your HELOC and you can deduct the interest). The bottom line is that we wasted about $2000 on 2 rounds of repairs and are still having problems - not just with more old windows losing their seals and fogging up or having parts fall off that can no longer be purchased anywhere, but also the windows that had new inserts are not working because the workers did a sloppy repair job of reinstalling the frames. A house inspector would rip us apart on the windows issue.

I hope I can find a trustworthy contractor to work on our windows. Good luck!

Amerimax Windows out of Colorado makes a very good quality vinyl window. Their website is amerimaxwindows dot com. I had their windows in 2 of my houses and they were tight and operated well.

The do make windows with flanges. They are typically used in new construction though. You may be able to use them in your project if you have a trim condition that will allow.