We are interested in remodeling our kitchen, which would involve not only new cabinetry, but the addition of a wall where the counter is currently open towards the living room. The ceiling is 8', and the wall would be roughly 8' long. I am considering using 25 ga. metal studs, (obviously 16" o/c) with 1/2" drywall.
The lower track would screw into the subfloor, which is two sandwiched layers of 1/2" plywood. The 16" o/c subfloor joists run parallel to the proposed wall, which means there's no guarantee I'll be able to screw into a floor joist.
The upper track would screw into the drywall ceiling. Once again, the attic joists (24" o/c) run parallel to the proposed wall, so once again, no guarantee I'll be able to screw into an attic joist.
Here are my questions concerning this arrangement:
- What's the best way to build a wall parallel to the attic and subfloor joists? The ceiling is textured, so I'd rather not have to cut that open.
- Snaptoggle bolts (http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php) are quite strong. Would it be a no-no to attach the upper track to the ceiling drywall with a lot of 1/2" Snaptoggles?
- Will general-purpose deck screws be sufficient to attach the lower track to the plywood subfloor if there are no joists underneath?
- Finally, the kitchen cabinetry. The existing cabinetry is supported only from the attic joists, so I would most likely screw the new cabinetry into the attic joists as well. Once again, would it be a no-no to attach kitchen cabinets (or an range hood/microwave) to the metal-studded wall with 1/2" Snaptoggles instead of the wood screws specified in the instructions?
According to the spec sheet (http://www.toggler.com/pdf/toggle.pdf), on 1/2" drywall with a 25 ga. stud, a 1/2" Snaptoggle pulls out at 468 lbs., which means I would want to calculate 117 lbs. each using the safety factor of 4.
Thanks!
The lower track would screw into the subfloor, which is two sandwiched layers of 1/2" plywood. The 16" o/c subfloor joists run parallel to the proposed wall, which means there's no guarantee I'll be able to screw into a floor joist.
The upper track would screw into the drywall ceiling. Once again, the attic joists (24" o/c) run parallel to the proposed wall, so once again, no guarantee I'll be able to screw into an attic joist.
Here are my questions concerning this arrangement:
- What's the best way to build a wall parallel to the attic and subfloor joists? The ceiling is textured, so I'd rather not have to cut that open.
- Snaptoggle bolts (http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php) are quite strong. Would it be a no-no to attach the upper track to the ceiling drywall with a lot of 1/2" Snaptoggles?
- Will general-purpose deck screws be sufficient to attach the lower track to the plywood subfloor if there are no joists underneath?
- Finally, the kitchen cabinetry. The existing cabinetry is supported only from the attic joists, so I would most likely screw the new cabinetry into the attic joists as well. Once again, would it be a no-no to attach kitchen cabinets (or an range hood/microwave) to the metal-studded wall with 1/2" Snaptoggles instead of the wood screws specified in the instructions?
According to the spec sheet (http://www.toggler.com/pdf/toggle.pdf), on 1/2" drywall with a 25 ga. stud, a 1/2" Snaptoggle pulls out at 468 lbs., which means I would want to calculate 117 lbs. each using the safety factor of 4.
Thanks!
