Maytag Performa Stove not mantaing baking temp

"An amp meter reading would tell if the ignitor was weak....heating it up with the broil can help...so far it still -sounds- like a weak ignitor.
It's the "it shut off and didn't come back on" that is odd."
Jeff,
I'm not sure you're familiar with this stove, there are 2 ignitors, one for the broiler at the top of the compartment and the baking ignitor below the pan. So when I switch to "broil" the flame and ignitor above go on, and when I go back to "bake" the ignitor and flame below the pan are in use. That said how does switching back and forth between broil and bake tell you its the ignitor that's faulty? Again there are two ignitors.
To my way of thinking it could be something wrong with the control panel on the top of the stove or again the temperature sensor probe. Please dont take this the wrong way, it's difficult for you not having this model in front of you, Maytag Performa Model # PGR5710 BDW
Thanks

I'm not sure you're familiar with this stove

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Very.

there are 2 ignitors

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Correct.

So far no testing....just posting after posting....no ohm meter testing, no amp meter testing, just guessing....start diagnosing!!

jeff.

I just wanted to make sure you were familiar with this model and that it has 2ignitors.

Do the ignitors have get ohm meter reading ?

sweets said:

Do the ignitors have get ohm meter reading ?

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If dead ( no glow ) the ignitors can be ohmed for continuity.
Ohm/continuity reading doesn't help with a weak ignitor.

jeff.

"I'm not sure you're familiar with this stove, there are 2 ignitors, one for the broiler at the top of the compartment and the baking ignitor below the pan. So when I switch to "broil" the flame and ignitor above go on, and when I go back to "bake" the ignitor and flame below the pan are in use. That said how does switching back and forth between broil and bake tell you its the ignitor that's faulty? Again there are two ignitors.
To my way of thinking it could be something wrong with the control panel on the top of the stove or again the temperature sensor probe. Please dont take this the wrong way, it's difficult for you not having this model in front of you, Maytag Performa Model # PGR5710 BDW"

UPDATE:
Often enough, when I switch to "Oven Hi or Oven Lo" to try to get the baking flame (below the pan) to reach the preset temperature, the broiler flame (top flame) does not light even though its ignitor is glowing brightly. I have to "Cancel" and try it several times before it ignites the broiler. Once it ignites the broiler flame I can then switch back to bake, where the baking flame reaches its preset temperature and stays there without dropping for however long I need it too. Once I get the broiler flame to ignite and switch back to "bake" this method works every time to keep the baking temp at its preset temperature.
Do you still think it's just the baking ignitor that's faulty or maybe the controls?

Thanks

I give up. The problem is not your oven, see below (from Eric Berne's work)


"
Why Don't You/Yes But

The first such game theorized was Why don't you/Yes, but in which one player (White) would pose
a problem as if seeking help,
and the other player(s) (Black) would offer solutions (the "Why don't you?" suggestion).
. . .
White would point out a flaw in every Black player's solution (the "Yes, but" response),
until they all gave up in frustration.
"

the problem is youre all guessing at the solution and with my money, the only response that made sense was to test the parts with an ohmmeter, it still may be the control panel thats faulty, how much does that cost?

Hello, again.

IMHO your reply confirms my diagnosis, and you are now using the defense mechanism of projection.
Did you ever hear of the saying, "Know thyself"?

For a while I had to work as a hardware store clerk.
Two short stories:

1: A guy came in with a problem and I offered a solution which was rejected. I immediately offered an even better solution, which was also rejected.
This process was repeated several more times, each time me offering ever more creative solutions. I was never so creative in such a short time, before or since. It was bam, bam, bam.
Finally the customer said, "I'm not paying 49 cents for this fastener/tool/adhesive/widget/gizmo and he walked out.
I think he left in a hurry because his "game" was becoming obvious and Dr. Berne has said that people who play games would rather not have their games made public.
This customer may have called this match a win for him, but I call it as a draw.

I think this is a likely outcome for your thread, and you have already brought up the additional constraint of 'money'.
Anyone can claim this. Did you ever hear of anyone complaining that they had too much money?

2: A woman comes in with a problem and I say that she must drive a nail into a wall. She said, "That's way too complicated." For this I had no answer because I was stunned, but I should have immediately said, "I cannot help you."

It soon became obvious to me that it is in my interest to recognize problem customers early on and cut my losses so I can serve the customers who really want solutions.
Same goes on forums.

I hope this post helps you, and others, but I cannot guarantee that.

its been helpful in as much as ive learned i have to 'ohm' the ignitors and temperature probe, that being said the rest were guesses, it could still be the control panel and i dont know how much that costs

sweets; I think you have 3 choices.
1. buy the meter like has been suggested so people can give you better answer.
2. just start changing parts, cheapest ones first.
3. have someone out to look at it
You can save a lot of money doing things your self and people here are willing to help
but sometimes diyers need tools too.

I agree I need to test the parts with an ohm meter first and start replacing first the temperature probe and ignitor, if falls short on the ohm meter, however I think its the control panel since I can "trick" it to work every time by switching to broil and then back to bake and then it always holds whataever temperature I set the bake too, even if I drop it down some later for some recipe.

If you have the thing figured out, what do you need help with?

until i posted here, i had no idea which part(s) could be defective and or tested, however i still dont know if its the control panel that's faulty, and how much it costs to replace:
Maytag Performa Model # PGR5710OBDW Serial # 14344035CC

Ohming the oven temp sensor is a good idea, still sounds like a weak ignitor to me.
1000-1100 ohms at room temp for the sensor.


Ignitor, glow bar Manufacturer Number 74007498


Oven sensor kit, short Manufacturer Number 12001655

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas-range-repair-help.php#glow
http://www.applianceaid.com/oven-temperature-sensors-help.php

Lots of testing info already given....no results posted as of yet.

jeff.

sweets, yes everyone is "guessing" because the only info they have is from your guesses. We are not there with our meters. Buy a meter, less than five bucks for your needs. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html Ask here how to use it to test parts if you need to, the part being tested needs to be isolated from wiring. Then report your findings. With real info there will be less guessing.

Wiring schematics, parts diagrams and parts cost are available on line. Check Maytags home page, Google "Appliance Parts" enter your model number at one of the sites.

Arguing and being rude is no way to get help. Some of the responders are professional appliance technicians, they know what they are talking about, they don't have to help you at all. If you choose to ignore the freely given advice, that's your concern, we don't have the time or inclination to argue. There are other people seeking help who are willing to listen to advice and are appreciative of it, and don't argue with people who know more or have had experience with exact same problem.

Sweets, are you still there?

sweets said:

"Ohming the oven temp sensor is a good idea, still sounds like a weak ignitor to me."

Jeff;
I dont have an ohmeter, however I took the bottom pan off and set bake to 350 degrees, I watched as the ignitor got bright red and lit the flame, but at a temp of about 200 degrees the flame went out and never came back on. Wouldnt that indicate the temperature sensor probe is off somehow??
Thanks

Click to expand...

Sounds like the safety valve or pressure regulator. I had same problem and I switched both. No issues now.
The problem is is that it's lighting in the start get the temp to rise, but then when it clicks off the valve won't reopen all the way or the pressure doesn't go to the right psi.
The igniter will glow all day but if the valve isn't open all the way or the pressure isn't regulated the oven will not function correctly.
I switched both rather that troubleshoot. I figured I was in there already I might as well just do it. But I had the same exact problem before and now it's gone.