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floatr

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I am replacing a deck that was pretty bad.The height is 14 inches off ground and its a freestanding ,24 by 12 ft deck.I have a pretty moist no sun area in working on but is graded ok.
I will be makings a one piecr frame joist since height is so low.Can i build up the pillars to the frame and use the 4 by 4 galvanized support piece(the type with the wavy bottom ) as my supports for the 2 by 10 outer band rim joists.inner are 2 by 8?
Here is a pic similar to what i was going to do .

IMAG0249.jpg
 
If, I understand it right. You want to hang the joists off the beem that will be sitting in the bucket. Yes you can, make the beam out of 2 2x10s. If this is a treated deck, make sure all hangers and nails are hot dipped galvinized.
 
By doubling the 2x10s you will fill the space for the 4x4 ... However, make sure you have properly sistered the 2x10s together so they act as a single beam. Remember to crown the wood with the crown UP so the beam will settle to level.

Here is one guide to the nailing pattern and nails you should use.
http://www.decks.com/deckbuilding/Nailing_a_Beam

If your doubled 2x10s will have side loaded hangers, the nailing pattern is critical. Here is something more to explain:
http://www.jlconline.com/framing/q-a--nailing-patterns-for-built-up-beams.aspx
 
I don’t own a nail gun and I would guess a lot of DIYer’s don’t as well. My deck I used Guard Dog Screws of varying lengths. Is the recommendation for a screw pattern the same as nails on a beam?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/FastenMaster-Guard-Dog-3-in-Wood-Screw-1750-Pack-FMGD003-1750/202502251

I stacked my joists on top of the beams so as to have no side loading and eliminate all the clips. That might be hard to do with only 14” of height unless he added a third center beam to cut the span down. What I liked about doing it that way was the outer beams could be set in from the edge and let a foot or so of the joists cantilever out and give the deck the appearance of floating and a thinner edge. I guess to do that on a 14” height you would need double 2x8 beams 2x6 joists and 1” decking or something like that.

I wonder if the OP’s 14” is based on having one step from the house down to the deck? 14” sounds low for a normal entry. I built mine 1.5” below the entry level just because I have an outswing door onto the deck and wanted to make sure if the frost moves it I would be safe with getting the door open.
 
Our code calls for 3 nails every 16 inches from one side, screws might not have the same sheer strength. Decks built in high snow load area should have a six inch step down from the door when the deck has a waterproof membrane on it.
 
Thanks for the info.The 14 inch measurement was taken right at the door bottom to ground .Its in Tn so its not a ton of snow if any .
What is best to use to make up for the excess space in the support bracket in pic since a 4 by 4 is larger than the 2 2 by 10s ?
Also is it approved to use this method with 2 2 by 10 and not involve the higher treated 4 by 4s -i know they are more resistant to moisture than 2 by 10 but that may apply more if touching the ground.
Ill leave a tiny gap as in pic under the support so moisture wont have as much of an affect .
I will be running the 24 ft along the home and joist 12 ft out.
 
Can i go with screws rated for attatching the 2 by 10s to one another all through the length of it ,and which ones are used for it?
Also,like you asked is the pattern the same for screws as with nails?
 
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Like I said I like the guard dog screws. They have all the exterior and pressure ratings. 3” screws are what I use. And longer ones 3.5 and 4” for going in the toe. I also use a couple big C clamps and a couple short bar clamps to pull it all tight before screwing get them lined up in both direction and pull any twist or bend out. I don’t know about strength but the deck I built was all made from a used deck I took down that was nailed together. It wasn’t that hard pulling the nails apart but I know you could never get one apart with screws without taking them out one at a time.
 
what pattern would i use with those 3 inch screws? and how thick are they?
I know its in rows of 3 or 4 all the way down the board every 16 in with nails..
Thanks
 
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Making a beam by doubling up the nails / screws or whatever you have running thru then have to transfer half the offset load to the member next to it. I don’t know the shear strength of a nail compared to a screw I’m sure the screws I mentioned are as good as a nail so I would go by what Neal said for nail spacing even if screwing.

If the two ate tight in contact when screws are put in you will have a very good beam.
 
We treat nails and deck screws the same, never had them fail inspection but going down to 12 on center wouldn't hurt ands not that much more work.
 
Thanks for the info .I also wanted to know what the span for framing/joists would be since outer band is 10 inch and joist are 8 inch.Would 12 inches on center be best ?
I have the entire frame and joist attached as 1 level.
 
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We never build with less tha 2x10s I can't help with the span. I would think if you not holding up a hot tub you could likely span 10ft but??
We do use 2x8s on front porches when the span will be like 6ft or less.
 
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