Need Help Guys! Converted Garage Too Hot - Insulation and Other Ideas

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Brooke2287

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I need some help guys! lol..So we have a converted garage but in the first room which we use as a laundry/micro kitchen it has exposed unfinished ceiling. The other room separated by a door is the bedroom and bathroom and it is finished with a window unit AC. We are in Florida and that first room gets soooo hot. Does anyone have any suggestions for a easy/cheapest solution to keep the exposed beams but still insulate to cut down on the heat. Thank yoU!

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If you were in need of a new roof, you could install rigid insulation over the roof deck, another layer of sheathing and then shingle or tile the roof.

You need insulation to limit the heat transfer from the Florida sun. You could install rigid insulation under the roof deck, but you'd lose some of the visible parts of the exposed roof rafters.
 
Sparky the roof is in good shape so that would not be an option. What do you think about this suggestion someone gave us:


2X2 nailers ran against the roof deck, then Styrofoam insulation, and paneling cut to fit between the beams.

This gives insulation, and leaves exposed beam look.

Might use a foil backed insulation, to radiate the heat back onto the roof, but this can cause asphalt shingles to melt.
 
You are not going to insulate and save the look. You will cook the roofing. I see you have a fan in the gable vent, where does that air come from, do you have a vent to bring air in.
 
I wouldn't use styrofoam I'd look at poly iso instead. It has an R-value of R-8 per inch. I'm not buying the cooking the roof complaint. The main reason for the cold roof venting is to prevent an ice dam which isn't a problem in Florida. Nearly all of the damage to a roof is by UV radiation and wind damage not heat.

I've seen conditioned attics with spray foam applied directly to the underside of the roof deck. In a cold climate if you can keep the heat from the house away from the roof deck you prevent ice dams.
 
http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/pdf/tech data/TB-R-value claims of Poly.pdf

pp.40,41; http://www.floridabuilding.org/fbc/publications/AtticVentReportFinal.pdf

Where are your rafter ties at 48"oc? Are those 2x10 rafters, able to leave exposed to fire, similar to floors, check local AHJ; http://media.iccsafe.org/news/eNews/2013v10n4/2012_irc_sigchanges_p69-70.pdf Need gable end braces in your high wind area. I don't see your wiring passing inspection before you insulate- any permits- plumbing/wiring/mechanical/structural/etc.

Gary
 
So do you guys think just enclosing the ceiling would be a better option? is that a huge expense and a big undertaking?
 
You also need to have a good idea about where the heat is coming from. I could insulate my garage roof but it wouldn't do much good, because it's open the the house attic, which generates a lot of heat. You also need to consider what you'll be using for cooling, even after insulating it. Regardless of how much it's insulated, it will get to whatever the ambient temperature is.
 
Older construction is normally 'grandfathered' in the code and may be left until significant changes occur, then you'll have to upgrade to current code. Open cell spray foam would do great here, but may (probably) will need a fire-resistant covering (sheetrock) and that may have to be 5/8" Type "X". The downside comes when you have to do code upgrades to the framing- now your finished work gets torn out for access and you get to do it all over again!

That's why I'm going to recommend fiberglass insulation here with vent channels, soffit venting, and a ridge vent. All that can be re-used when 'grandfather dies'.

Phil
 
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