Build Thread: LED Light Strip with Automatic Door Switch for Kitchen Pantry or Closet

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trogdor

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I'm thinking of taking on a new project. We recently decided to use this hallway closet as our kitchen pantry. Previously, these goods were stored on a bookshelf in the kitchen. It looked like a dorm room.

Since this closet has no light source, other than what spills in from the hallway and kitchen, my plan is to add a 16 foot LED strip across the inside door jamb, connected to a push-type switch that will turn the lights on when the door is opened, and off when closed.

There is no power in the closet, but in the picture that shows my hand pointing, there is an outlet on the opposite wall from which I am planning to draw power to the closet switch. The switch will be wired to the LED power supply, which will be wired to the LEDs. That's the plan at least.

I have listed that parts I'm planning to use, but that is likely to change. I'm just posting what I've found online so far.

Attached are a few photos and a diagram of my scheme. I welcome constructive thoughts from this knowledgable forum. My handyman status is probably a 6.5 on a scale of 1-10.

Switch, $13.75: Lee Electric 209DN 600-Watt Door Light Switch, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EVKA8G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

LED Power Supply, $15.75: Ledwholesalers 30 Watt LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer 120 to 12 Volt DC Output, 3207, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Lights, $11.88: Hitlights Warm White Flexible Ribbon LED Strip Light, 300 LEDs, 5 Meters (16.4 Feet) Spool, 12VDC Input, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GL5UG2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

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So your plan is to add a new outlet in a box inside the pantry that taps into the box on the other side of the wall? This new outlet will be controlled by the door switch and the power box will be plugged into this switched outlet?
 
So your plan is to add a new outlet in a box inside the pantry that taps into the box on the other side of the wall? This new outlet will be controlled by the door switch and the power box will be plugged into this switched outlet?

I was not planning to install a new outlet. I was only planning to tap into the wires that lead to the existing outlet and run those wires to the switch.
 
You could run power from your existing box thru the wall and then to the switch assuming the switch is an approved junction box and then go from there to a box that you would plug the transformer into. The other method would be to plug the transformer in and leave it powered up all the time and then switch the low voltage side thru the door switch. Both methods require a place for you to plug the transformer into. You can’t just cut off the plug and wire it thru a hole in the wall into your existing outlet box. At least that would be my understanding of code here.

I once had a gizmo that attached to a door frame and had a pushbutton that controlled a light built into the gizmo. Kind of what you are thinking about. It had a line cord and you would plug it in. I doubt they still make these though.

If it was my house I would tap thru the wall using all surface mounted wire raceway and put in a ceiling light and switch.
 
I have 3 closets setup that way, did it when building so it was easier to install. Ran the wire thru a regular switch so if I need to work on the push button I could turn the power off that way. Two of the doors are bi-fold so it was interesting to get the adjustment right. Don't know about the LED strip if it would give off enough light for what you want.
 
Whether there'll be enough light is the very last of my worries. There's already enough light to see what we need as it is. This is 25% practical and 75% fun project/wow factor.

And then you account for the fact there are 300 LEDs on that strip. Too dim? Yeah, right.
 
You could run power from your existing box thru the wall and then to the switch assuming the switch is an approved junction box and then go from there to a box that you would plug the transformer into. The other method would be to plug the transformer in and leave it powered up all the time and then switch the low voltage side thru the door switch.


Those are great suggestions. Thanks. I think I will add the latter to my plan.
 
I have done similar “WoW” factor projects. Never in a pantry but cool is cool wherever it is. In my old house I did quite a bit with rope lighting in a home theater. Hope you do it and when you get done post some pics.
 
Whether there'll be enough light is the very last of my worries. There's already enough light to see what we need as it is. This is 25% practical and 75% fun project/wow factor.

And then you account for the fact there are 300 LEDs on that strip. Too dim? Yeah, right.

Thought you were trying to get light to see by. I don't go for Wow factor just practicably. And yes I still use incandescent bulbs.
 
Thought you were trying to get light to see by. I don't go for Wow factor just practicably. And yes I still use incandescent bulbs.


Nothing wrong with incandescents. My hope with this project is that light coming from all angles will result in a more even distribution around the closet. Mounting only one incandescent from above would create some pretty funky shadows and dark spaces in here.

Time will tell if this works out. I'll pop back in to give my results and thoughts. Probably won't be able to start the project until next weekend.
 
In the after photos I expect to see substantial volume level reduction of everything on the top shelf of the pantry. That way we will know you did proper planning before beginning work.
 
In the after photos I expect to see substantial volume level reduction of everything on the top shelf of the pantry. That way we will know you did proper planning before beginning work.


Whistle while you work!
 
In that case, please refer to this photo. Could I just tap into the wires for the hallway light switch? Seems simple to me.

ImageUploadedByHome Repair1389402643.355294.jpg
 
If you have just a white and black going to the switch, no the power is going to the light first. If you have 2 whites tied together and 2 black going to the switch, likely yes, but then you could just add another switch there.
 
This is what's back there. Note: this is a 65 year old house.

ImageUploadedByHome Repair1389403897.941964.jpg

ImageUploadedByHome Repair1389403936.677534.jpg

ImageUploadedByHome Repair1389403985.680345.jpg
 
That is a threeway switch, the power is going to the light or the other switch, so no you can not get power from there.
 

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