Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

Let's re-visit the tub placement.
Tub where toilet and sink are, a short wall at end of tub with toilet behind it with sink across from toilet, leaving the window between the sink and the toilet.

nix the tub/shower combo go with a 36x42 or 36x 48 shower

in the configuration neal suggested

sometimes it is easier to beg forgiveness than to ask permission.

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Thanks Frodo, words to live by.

Zannej: You may have to educate your mom a little. if you have existing moisture problems, dig into it & show her the results. Pick a particularly nasty spot to make your point.

I've been trying to work on my own bathroom and I at least have picked out a tub/shower for Mom's bathroom. I'll have to keep working on the plans for this bathroom.

Right now my cabinet doors are pissing me off. I used the same size hinges but the doors don't want to fit back on. I'd forgotten that the edges weren't tapered and both doors had to be opened and closed at the same time or else they bumped in to each other. Right now the middle left door doesn't want to fit back on and I'm a bit frustrated. I'm going to have to find the right tools to make the damn things fit. LOL.

I did have a funny moment when I was looking for the hinges and screws. I put them inside a container and I couldn't find it until I realized that my cat was sitting in it.


Meanwhile his sister was smacking things down onto my head as I was trying to put the doors on.

(The crud all over the floor is from when I had a bunny that I rescued from my cats in there. I had it in a box with some timothy hay and water. Poor thing didn't make it though. And then my cats knocked over the box so they could sleep in it and spilled out the water and hay and then scattered it. I've been too lazy to clean it up just yet).

Hinges made to the same measurements by different manufactures don't always have the screw holes in the same place. Just check that you may have to plug the old holes so you can mount them in the right place.

The holes were in the same place. In fact, there was a mark on the cabinet where the old hinges had been so I got the hinges to sit over the spot.

I discovered that part of the problem is that the new hinges are designed to sort of self-close the cabinets or spring them closed and it was making them sit differently when I was trying to attach them (it was sort of pushing away a bit if that makes sense). I ended up using elbows, knees, and feet to hold things in place. I still had trouble with one of the hinges so I found my chisel and chiseled the groove for it a bit deeper (it required a groove on the inside edge). Finally got those damn doors on. LOL. I'm going to take the chisel to the inside edge of the doors where they meet each other and taper them so they don't hit each other when closing. Then I'm going to do another coat of touch-up paint. I think the doors are made of the worst quality plywood that was available at the time. I need to find my wood putty/filler to get rid of some of the saw cuts from when the vanity was originally built. I actually got up and did a happy dance when the damn doors actually fit in. LOL. (I can't remember if I started a thread on this forum about that bathroom project).

Anyway, my mother rejected the idea of the layout change and smaller shower. So, I'm starting to wonder if maybe glass blocks with a vent window would work..

I saw this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Vented-Decora-Pattern-Glass-Block-Window-101891/100061775


I wonder if I could turn it sideways so it is taller than wide... I also wonder how much smaller the block window would have to be than the current window. I think the current one is about 22.75" wide and 34.75"H. I would have the vent window at the very top though. I think they make them that way. I read that they do custom vent positions.

So something like this only smaller


What do you guys think? (and I know you don't like the idea of the window in the shower)

PS. The ceiling turns out to be higher than 8' but is not quite 9' (I couldn't see far enough to see the exact measurement- my eyesight is not the best)

When you change a window you want to take it right back to framing as often you will find problems that can be repaired from the side you are working on and then you get to install new with most up to date installation method.
The rough opening for your window is likely 2'-0" x 3'-0" the trim would have to be removed so that could be checked for sure. Any window company would call that a standard size. Width always comes first when measuring windows and doors.
I havn't seen a prepared window like you found, we see actual block that is installed like brick and the do use them in showers but I don't no the system for sealing them into the hole.
A regulay glass block has an r value about the same as a double glased window so not much, the big complaint that I hear is privacy.
I did find that people are making trim kits for shower windows, who knew?
http://www.best-bath.com/Accessory/Trim Kits/20/Window Trim Kits

If you do take the current window out, and go down to the framing, then you should be able to resize the opening to your liking. Maybe a bit smaller and start it higher up.
I believe the glass blocks are sold separately (individually) and the vent is sized to fit with the blocks. I remember something about a specific mortar for laying those in. You might get more info from a mason supply / stone yard.

slownsteady said:

If you do take the current window out, and go down to the framing, then you should be able to resize the opening to your liking. Maybe a bit smaller and start it higher up.
I believe the glass blocks are sold separately (individually) and the vent is sized to fit with the blocks. I remember something about a specific mortar for laying those in. You might get more info from a mason supply / stone yard.

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She won't want to do repairs to the siding and they do sell a framed window like that, first time I have seen it.

Thanks, guys. The glass block windows I'm looking at are sold from HD but the company actually makes them to certain sizes and includes the little vent window.
I forgot to mention that we don't want to have to change the size of the window as it appears on the outside (because it would involve messing with the exterior trim and siding), but we do want to take out the existing old crappy metal window. I'm pretty sure the glass blocks have a better R value than the current one.

Privacy isn't an issue because the window is on the side of the house facing the barnyard. I don't think anyone would care if the cows looked in. We are also out in the middle of nowhere surrounded by forest. Plenty of privacy.

Neal, the particular shower wall system I want to get is one of the few that works with a designated window trim kit from Sterling. I think its about $161. Swanstone also has one for around $138. ASB has one around $30 but the reviews for it were not great and people said it was better to just buy a regular generic waterproof window trim kit. I know Sterling will probably insist that their kit is the only option, but from what I've seen of the shapes, its pretty much the same as the other ones out there. I'll have to figure out if the window will stick out above the shower walls. Instead of making thicker walls around the shower, I think I'll use waterproof/vinyl base molding or something like that. Maybe the kind designed to go around doors or something. That will cover the outside flange.

I hope I'm making sense. My mind is jumping all over the place right now.

Edit: I started replying before I saw neal's last reply. You are correct, Neal. I didn't know about the already made glass block windows with a vent until they popped up on my google search for shower window trim kits.

!/8 glass R value 1.96, double glased and block are about double that. The problem I see with the trim kit is the reach, if it fits tight to the tub suround and it has to reach nice to the face of the window. Which could be different for each make of window or if you have to adjust where you put the tub to fit against tristed studs or? Or if they are built for a 2x6 wall when you have 2x4 walls??

nealtw said:

!/8 glass R value 1.96, double glased and block are about double that. The problem I see with the trim kit is the reach, if it fits tight to the tub suround and it has to reach nice to the face of the window. Which could be different for each make of window or if you have to adjust where you put the tub to fit against tristed studs or? Or if they are built for a 2x6 wall when you have 2x4 walls??

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The different trim kits have different depths in terms of how far into the window sill they go. I will have to go measure the sill later. Its a pain to get back there since my brother just opened his door and shoved all of his trash and laundry out into the hallway and now it is piled up so high its hard to get through. The dryer is currently not working.

I think the Sterling trim kit is 3.75" or 4" deep (different sites gave different depths)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015J7ZBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The ASB kit is 6" deep.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ASB-36-in-x-36-in-Window-Trim-Kit-in-White-1TRIM03A/202552111

The Swanstone is 8" deep.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Swanstone-Composite-Window-Trim-Kit-in-White-WK10000-010/100013779

I'll have to check the measurements of the tub surround and figure out how high it would go in comparison to the window.

With an eight ft ceiling there is only room for a 9" window above a 1 pc tub/shower unit which allows for a header and sill above the window so the tub must be right around 75 or 76 inches high. Forget about measuring that window. A new window will have a flange that nails on the outside sheeting behind the window trim and it is the distance from that flange to thye inside of the window that counts and then you subtract that from the total thickness of the wall including the sheeting behind the siding. And then if the tub suround has a flange to attach to the wall it will only touch the wall for about an inch at the top and depending on built in shapes in the suround measurements could be all over the place. So you best get one with a flat side. I suspect the trim would still want to be big and then be and trimmed to fit to the window.

nealtw said:

With an eight ft ceiling there is only room for a 9" window above a 1 pc tub/shower unit which allows for a header and sill above the window so the tub must be right around 75 or 76 inches high. Forget about measuring that window. A new window will have a flange that nails on the outside sheeting behind the window trim and it is the distance from that flange to thye inside of the window that counts and then you subtract that from the total thickness of the wall including the sheeting behind the siding. And then if the tub suround has a flange to attach to the wall it will only touch the wall for about an inch at the top and depending on built in shapes in the suround measurements could be all over the place. So you best get one with a flat side. I suspect the trim would still want to be big and then be and trimmed to fit to the window.

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Turns out the ceiling is about 8' 8". The window sill (measuring to the deepest part to the window is about 6.5". The window currently extends about 4.5" above the 73.25" height of the surround. So the 36x36x8 swanstone one might be the best fit.

The particular tub surround I selected is designed to accommodate a window, so it is flat. The installation instructions indicated that I should put some kind of backing behind the part that is cut around the window. It didn't indicate depth. I intend to coat the studs in some kind of sealant to keep out water and I will put up insulation and a moisture barrier. The moisture barrier will be tucked under the new window and trim (and taped up the wazoo with appropriate tape).

I still need to try to visualize the glass block window installation thing. Maybe I can find a video. I hope that it can be installed from the inside without having to mess up the outside vinyl trim.

You can get a window without a flange but you are asking for trouble later on. We can help you deal with the siding with out taking it all off. Just some of it with a cheap zipper tool , it is easy and if you are planning on changing all windows we can make it even easier.

nealtw said:

You can get a window without a flange but you are asking for trouble later on. We can help you deal with the siding with out taking it all off. Just some of it with a cheap zipper tool , it is easy and if you are planning on changing all windows we can make it even easier.

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I have to admit to my ignorance about windows. I know what a flange is, but I don't know if the glass block ones have a flange. Can you recommend any sites or videos that would show more detail on the construction of the windows and what I need to look for? (I'm googling it right now but with the weather its sloooow).

I was trying to look up videos of how to remove windows like the kind I already have, but none of the ones were quite like what I currently have (there were wood windows in wood walls and the only metal ones I saw were in cement walls--and then my internet crapped out on me).

I've seen videos and instructions on how to remove siding. Would I just have to temporarily remove some of it and then put it back? It has some kind of trim around the windows on the outside. I'll have to get pictures of both inside and outside to show you what I'm dealing with.

I'm trying to visualize things, but sometimes things don't always "click" if that makes sense.

I do really appreciate the help and advice.

Good videos are hard to find but this is how we install windows for the most part
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2VOrk1MuWY[/ame]
If you have wood trim around your windows on the outside, You would just remove that trim to install new windows,
Windows without flanges are screwed in on each side leaving you with holes to be sealed and resealed over time, just another problem to deal with.
If your windows don't have flanges you may find screws to remove on the inside, if they have wood frames they will likely be nailed. remove the trim inside and outside cut the nails with a saws-all or a hacksaw blade.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Vented-Decora-Pattern-Glass-Block-Window-101891/100061775?AID=11210757&PID=7104162&SID=skim42682X1149721Xf7c51d03ff782fcb4ad8716e0c043d82&cm_mmc=CJ-_-7104162-_-11210757&cj=true

...................scroll down to info and guides, the manufacture shows how to install your window

Thanks, Neal and Frodo! I'll have to wait for midnight to watch the video (bandwidth doesn't count against my usage limit from midnight to 5am).

I asked the mfr a few questions thus far. They recommended
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pittsbur...s-Block-Window-V2234DC/203521339?N=5yc1vZc9lv

or http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pittsbur...Window-V2234IS/203520248?N=5yc1vZc9lvZ1z0uuzs

They are both the same size (22.25" x 33.5"). They recommended that the rough opening be 1/4" to 1" larger than the window but their next largest window is larger than the rough opening. The size differences are in 2" increments.

Some answers to questions that the mfr posted involving installation:

There are two ways to install glass block. Mortar or ProVantage (silicone). And there are two ways to anchor glass blocks. Anchors or Channel. For one course/column of glass blocks we would recommend using the anchors. Anchors would be either the ProVantage II or the Mortar II Installation. The easiest of these is the ProVantage II.

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There are two options when installing a GuardWise Window into a wood opening. You can install it the same way as when installing into cmu/masonry, (mortar on the sill and sides and expansion at the top and caulk the top joint), however, once installed, install a trim piece (1/4 round etc.) around the perimeter to secure the window into the opening. Or, befor you apply the mortar, nail a metal tie (brick tie, etc.) to the wood first to give the mortar something to "grab" onto."

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I see it mentions measuring as if the frame was already removed. I'm not sure how much will have to be removed. Do you think I should go for the window that is 2" larger than the one they recommended? (I will of course look and take more measurements before ordering anything).

I know that the sill is at least 6" and the glass block window is 3" deep. So there will be a little ledge for some small items. I think I will slather any wood with Killz and then cover it with one of those vinyl window trim kits.

I was thinking of using the silicone product they mentioned. I'll have to find out if it works about the same as the mortar.

So they are building window for showers and (hold it in with wood) That's not the answer you want.
You will have to take the trim off the inside and measure the opening. I would go with a reg. bath window.